Best torque multiplier I've used

[kyle4501]

For reference, Ebay # 330598922320 is one like I bought.

A busnut buddy & I did some tire swapping on a couple of my derelict relics this morning. These were on a Scenicruiser I had gotten from the salted north & the wheels had not been off for over 20 years - the threads were very rusty too. The last time I tried to take these wheels off, I stripped the gears in a Sweeney torque multiplier that was rated at 2200 ft-lbs. I also broke a 3/4" drive pull handle & bent another torque multiplier before I gave up on that attempt. 

So, today we tried again by putting this tool to the test.

While it feels too light weight to be of real use, it easily broke all of the nuts loose on all 4 rear tires. WHOOOOO HOOOO! Success! ! !

We did have to play around with the sockets to get the tool to fit the nut properly, but when you start turning the handle,with the 78 to 1 ratio, something is gonna move. Once the nuts were 'cracked loose', we used a 650 ft-lb impact to remove the nut - sometimes the rust was so bad, even that wouldn't work until the nut had been backed off further with 'ole yeller'.

Always nice when a tool lives up to the hype. 

[scott332]

I have a similar one (1:58) the blue one from ebay.  Took a front wheel off last week and it worked like a champ.  Most studs were so rusty, I had to back them all the way off with the multiplier (which is a LOT of cranks of the handle in 90+° heat).  There would have been no way I could have done it without the multiplier.

[rcbeam]

I'm going to bid on the one on ebay.... been thinking about one of those for a long time.  My related question would be, torquing the nuts when putting them back on.  I have a Sears torque wrench, really nice large handle one I bought probably thirty years ago... haven't used it in years, but it worked great when I did.  You turn the handle on the end to select the torque and it clicks when you are at that point in your pull.    At any rate, it is only 1/2 in drive and goes up to 150 ft lb. 

How do any of you torque your wheel nuts putting them on?

[Lin]

We also have the blue one that looks exactly like this otherwise.  I was advertized back then as 60:1.  It works great except if you forget that a lug is left handed.  Putting the lugs back on is an issue though since it would be very easy to over torque them, so I have used a breaker bar and extension.  I figure that if I use all of my 150# from 3 foot out, I should be getting around 450# of torque.

[bevans6]

You don't use a 60:1 torque multiplier to put nuts back on, simple as that.  You use, in reverse order of sophistication, a 4' long pipe on your little breaker bar and lean on it in a calibrated "one foot off the ground, that's 100 lbs" fashion, you do the same but on the 4' breaker bar you bought at one of those tool outlets for $25, or you use your $200 on sale at Tractor Supply Co. 600 ft lb torque wrench (my weapon of choice, although I got mine at Princess Auto on sale) or you borrow your buddies Snap-On Torque wrench that he has because he works on fork lifts.  I will grant that one of those 9:1 type torque multipliers you could use to do up nuts and it would do a decent job, but I don't rate them as high as a 4 ft breaker bar, frankly.  Or you  could use your 1" air gun set on medium.  That works too, somewhat...

Brian

[kyle4501]

Stud piloted wheels require torque in the 400+ ft-lb range. I don't know about hub piloted wheels. . . .

Best way to get the required torque when you put them back on is to get a good quality pull handle (3/4 or 1" drive) & do a little math.
1- Use a bathroom scale to find out how much force (in pounds) you can comfortably & repeatedly push down (block up the scale to be at the same height as the center of your wheel).
2- Divide the required torque (specified in the vehicle service manual in ft-lbs) by number of pounds from the bathroom scale from step 1. This will be the horizontal radial distance (in feet) from the socket to where you push down on the pull handle. You may need to slip a piece of pipe over the pull handle to get to the required length.
3- You may need to support the socket end of the pull handle to ensure proper socket to nut engagement.

Voila, you have torqued your lug nuts! 

[PP]

Whether this is right or wrong, it's been working for me with no problems. I use a 1/2" drive torque wrench set at 40# and my 12X multiplier. It takes them off (not the torque wrench), and it puts them on. Granted, my lug nuts aren't rusted. So far, all is good, Will
PS-Yes, we share the same roads, should you be concerned? LOL

[Lee Bradley]

I bought one to remove the nuts on my Neoplan after bending the handle on a 600 ft/lb Snap-on torque wrench (yes they replaced it) but now what do I do with it. With the nuts cleaned and correctly torqued I don't need that tool.
Maybe the bus-nut community should buy one and mail it from member to member as we need it. 

[bevans6]

My left hand thread wheel nuts (why can we say "nuts" and we can't say "@$#") were done up incredibly tight the first time I took them off.  I had to over-air a really good 1" air gun up to 145 PSI to get them off.  I think a tool like that is well worth the investment. 

[Ed Hackenbruch]

The book for my 5A says the torque should be 450-500 lbs.  Will, with the 12x multiplier it says to use a factor of 10 when torquing. So setting your wrench at 40 lbs is only giving you 400 lbs. Set it at 45-50 and you will be in the range that you need.

[luvrbus]

My weapon of choice is the 1" IR impact gun it will do the job every time both ways lol

good luck

[RnMAdventures]

I never knew such an animal existed. I am going to have to get one. I could have used that on my compensator nut, rather than the 5' cheater pipe.

[bobofthenorth]

For on the road I carry a 3/4 x 3 foot swing handle and a 4' section of pipe.  They haven't let me down yet.  After I get them loose I've got a 3/4 cheapo air impact wrench but usually I don't bother dragging out the hose for it.  For spinning the nuts off and on my Dewalt cordless impact works just fine.

[zubzub]

FWIW I have broken a 3/4" breaker bar, and some of the lug nuts on my bus have resisted my 1,600 ft/lb 1" impact.  I'm pretty sure if I have a good 1" breaker , a nice strong 6' pipe and don't lose too much weight, my 250 lbs should break the last ones loose, but the math says no.  If I could borrow torque multiplier  it would probably be a one time deal, as a few of those nuts have not moved in years, they are just stuck in their ways......hmmm reminds me of a forum I frequent.

[kyle4501]

The torque multiplier I bent was a military surplus with a 3 to 1 ratio. I was standing/ bouncing on a 6 foot long cheater bar & still didn't break some loose. I stopped when I realized I was bending the multiplier. It was then I decided I was either going to have to pay someone OR buy a better tool. The new toy tool was less than the cost of a service call.
With this tool, I have a choice. . . .

BTW
If you keep your wheels properly maintained, you shouldn't need to apply excessive torque to get them off.

That said, it sure is nice having a lightweight tool to use instead of having to drag out the big heavy ones.