Runnin HOT

Zeroclearance · July 29, 2011, 01:12:48 PM

Joe, I welded the hub so that the hub and clutch are now fused together. I'm not driving the bus in cold weather. The engine thermostats will modulate the temp that it needs. I just want the maximum airflow going thru my A/C condensor, Intercooler and radiator!

BTW, did you have your ECU reflashed?

Joe Camper · July 29, 2011, 01:49:50 PM

no. I was waiting for another call??

What was the reason for welding it instead of just inserting the 2 lock out bolts?

gus · July 29, 2011, 08:42:34 PM

Joe,

No malice intended-all in good bus fun!

My comment was along the line of "slow down and smell the roses"!!

Joe Camper · July 30, 2011, 05:14:04 AM

I'm sorry as well.

Still wondering why zeroclearence went that extra mile to weld that hub when it is designed with lock out bolts right into it.

Are they not up to the task? Prone to failure.I know they are there but have never needed to use them.

Zeroclearance · July 30, 2011, 09:50:03 AM

Joe, I called a few individuals and they both recommended that I weld it up. The clutch has failed in certain buses causing the fan to launch into your radiator.

I actually have my radiator out, I'm waiting for gaskets to rebuild it.

JohnEd · July 30, 2011, 11:11:27 AM

Quote from: Zeroclearance on July 30, 2011, 09:50:03 AM
Joe, I called a few individuals and they both recommended that I weld it up. The clutch has failed in certain buses causing the fan to launch into your radiator.

I actually have my radiator out, I'm waiting for gaskets to rebuild it.

Now that is a GOOD reason if I ever heard one.

John

Joe Camper · July 30, 2011, 01:28:55 PM

Yikes

Back to basics now you have what I had from the start.

Zeroclearance · July 30, 2011, 02:27:43 PM

Trial by fire..

Rebuild radiator

Replace turbocharger (FOD) damage to the compressor wheel >> and I should know better since I build the stupid things!

Valve adjustment>> NOTE to those BUS NUTS that have Series 60's.. The intake valves get tight and should be at least checked more often. Mine are extremely tight and I haven't reached the manuals Timed Interval.

My downpipe flange was cracked at the turbocharger. $115 for a new one.

Joe, I am mentioning all of this so that you can go over an above your PPI.

luvrbus · July 30, 2011, 04:14:57 PM

Joe, I am thinking you may have a bad clutch drive all series 60 that I have been around in Prevost the fan doesn't turn till the temps reach 196* for the first speed then 203* for the second speed and if they have a transmission retarder it is supposed to bypass 1 and go to the 2nd speed when you hit the retarder it is programed in the ECM to work that way.
FWIW that is a high dollar clutch also
seems like you would give up some mileage and hp going direct

good luck

JohnEd · July 30, 2011, 06:26:54 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 28, 2011, 06:26:47 AM
Check the turbo boost Joe a few pounds off they will heat on a pull unlike a 8v92 they move they heat out with the turbo not water,A DDEC 111 or IV ? waste gate turbo ?upgrade me to a DDEC IV 470 hp and a waste gate turbo problems stopped for me. My 96 series 60 was 405 hp with a DDEC 111 and ran hot DD
Prevost did some weird crap in 1996 I hated the IFS on mine they worked it all the time but never cost me LOL

good luck

65 HP stronger. A waste gated turbo is more responsive....me thinks, and RAN COOLER. Where is the decision problem? What did that upgrade cost?

John