MCI - Removing Factory A/C

[Doug1968]

Fellows,

Those of you that own an MCI that has had the factory a/c removed I have a few questions.

1) I assume when the a/c is removed out comes the compressor, condenser coil and the condenser fan assembly. But what about the inner evaporator coil? Have you left this in place?

2) Can I also assume that the heater coil is left in place along with the main HVAC blower assembly? Seems you would still need this system to maintain the cabin heat.

3) If the factory heat system was left operable can I assume that you used the factory ducting inside the cabin to handle the heated air?

4) Once the condenser and condenser fan were removed what was this space used for?

I have a 102a3.

I would appreciate hearing what you fellows have done with your MCI's.

Thanks,

Doug

[Lin]

We removed it all.  The space was used for a mounted propane tank and extra storage.

[artvonne]

  Most Bus conversions pull it all, including the evap and heater core and ventilation fans. I believe many also cut off the cab heat, though many try to restore that back.

  Im one of the odd balls that specifically looked for a Bus that still had everything and I intend to run it. Or at least the main parts less the compressor. If your dealing with an older Bus, youll find plenty of dirt in there. Needs cleaning either way.

[RJ]

Doug -

Most converters remove the entire system.

HOWEVER:

You need to leave all the necessary plumbing in place for the defroster.

Some install a small automotive A/C compressor on the engine to run the driver's A/C (which is incorporated into the defroster).

Do it your way!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[scanzel]

If you remove everything you then need to decide how you will heat and cool the driver area. Put in a new after market system like Red Dot or modify the existing dash heat and air to continue to work. I chose to keep the over the road heat and air. Needed a new compressor and a complete overhaul $4300 latter but now I have some great air conditioning when going down the road. I didn't want to run the generator and roof tops when traveling. Plus I wanted some redundancy. It's all in what works for you. This is why we are Bus Nuts, we do it our way.

[bevans6]

My bus was complete when I got it, I removed the compressor and the condenser.  I wanted to take out weight at the back since I planned to tow a trailer, and I wanted to put a generator in the condenser compartment.  I left in the bus heat with the stock vents.  I left in the evaporator coil simply because it looked like a total pain to remove and I had other things to do (still do!).  I really like the OTR heat and it made keeping the drivers heat and defrost very easy.  I removed the drivers AC coil to get more room in the dash.

brian

[robertglines1]

On the Mci 8, I did I uses 2 box type heaters hot water to air; like you would use in tractor. in place of big stock heat exchanger along with drivers heat. They were built into cabinets. I noticed you are in the frozen north might not be sufficient for you. Occasional trips in the 20's they did the job for us.We did have Elect heat when parked and did not do much winter camping.  Mostly run to the sun!  Bob

[Tikvah]

I removed the passenger heat and air.  My questions is, where I removed the big heater core for the passenger heat, do I cap off the tubes, or run a line between them to maintain flow?

[rcbeam]

The P/O removed all the bus heat and air but left the drivers heater... however he didn't cap the lines, just turned off the valves in the back.  Found out this past winter that I had no heat.  I capped the supply and return lines where the main heater core used to be so I could open the valves in the back and get hot water to the drivers heater.  Hopefully next winter I'll have a defroster that works.  I was told that if I joined the two sides instead of capping, that the water would just bypass the defroster do to lack of flow.

[christopher]

its a great system, keep it in. i still have mine
chris

[buswarrior]

If you tie the two cut pipes together, you will trigger overheat problems in the warm weather.

No heat removed from the coolant, no control valve to regulate the flow, returns hot to the cold side of the radiator.

Cap the lines to the old heater core, leave the lines that tee off and head for the defroster, all will be...

happy coaching!
buswarrior