Fuel line replacement question.

[5B Steve]

  I thought I might ask this question, has anyone ever replaced all or any of the fuel lines in there coach?  The

   reason that I ask because mine are probably (some original)  and they look like they need updated.  I know

   the saying, "If it works don"t fix It"  What's your thought?


   Steve 5B.....

[bevans6]

I think it's a good idea, if the lines need it.  Most of the ones on my bus are pretty new, but if they crunch when you bend them, that's a sign...

you can buy the hose and end fittings from a supply house in bulk and assemble the hoses yourself.  You can theoretically reuse the original fittings, in many cases, but I don't.  I take samples of all the ends I need, buy a bag of fittings and a roll of hose and start changing...

Brian

[5B Steve]

  Brian, do you know if they make braided neoprene?

  Steve 5B...

[zimtok]

Our bus had all original fuel lines when we got it.
Then one started to leak (ooze) fuel so I replaced it. Soon after another one started to leak. So I just replaced all of the ones in the engine compartment.

I am usually the person to fix only when it is broken, but some things like hoses, belts, and tires I consider as "wear" items to be replaced on a regular basis.

.

[JohnEd]

For every rule there is a counter rule.  In my many years I have been stopped by water hoses failing many times.  It cost me the engine twice.  If they are deformed, swollen, soft, cracked or HARD.....replace them.

conventional fuel line rubber....what is on your bus as standard....may be OK at the moment but I would replace stuff that is that old.  You will not be able to run any BioD as that fuel will dissolve rubber lines.  You MUST us Viton(sic) in every replaceable seal or hose to have those components stand up to Bio.  As well, over the years your metal lines may have been patched/repaired with copper line stuff.  That metal reacts with BioD and fouls your fuel system.  If your fuel lines show no exterior rusting I would leave it alone.  I would defer to others as I have no experience with D carrying steel lines on the deterioration of the inside surface topic.

While I was into my fuel system I would suggest you consider the following upgrades:

1)  Priming Pump....Clifford has recommended a reasonably priced pump that has the pressure and flo rate we need plus has a built in check valve to prevent loss of prime due to line air leaks AND has zero flo resistance in the forward direction when power is off.  That pump eliminates "constructing" bypass lines and check valve designs that will set you back much more money unless you have the parts already.  Search Clifford's posts on the topic.

2) Fuel tank drain petcock. Generator and engine and heating oil

3) Fuel tank shut-off valve...electric.  Generator and engine and heating oil

I would  be surprised if anyone had the full suite of safety and alarm systems installed on their bus.  I would also be surprised if anyone could argue with the merits of any of them.

If you have separate fuel tanks for heating and generator and fuel you will be able to take advantage of "off-road" fuel tax exemptions.  Only you with your knowledge about you usage level and cost of upgrades can determine if the mods/upgrades are cost effective.  You can BioD "proof" a small tank more cheaply than a large system and heavy concentrations of Bio in a old tank will  result in years of crude that is built up on the inside of the tank dislodging and fouling filters.  If you make BioD the costs can easily/quickly be justified but it costs more at the pump than the D junk we are getting used to.

Kind of beat this to death for you but I am also certain that I missed some other angles that MIGHT bear on your project.  Hope others chime in cause there surely must be room.

Please let the Board know about your decisions, criteria and progress.  Many can refer you to sources that will provide you the best prices.... except maybe Clifford as he marks his stuff WAAAAAAYYYY up there.LOL

Pleasant Travels,

John

[Boomer]

Do not use any type of rubber hose.  AeroQuip rated for fuel has always been my choice, with reusable fittings.  Braided stainless is probably the best, but very pricey.  They are pretty much lifetime.  Some also use hydraulic hose but they have crimped fittings, not reusable.

[bevans6]

Steve, I just buy Aeroquip hose and ends from my local Aeroquip dealer.  They make up about all the lines for everyone around here that doesn't have their own machines to crimp and all that.  I tell them exactly what I am using the hose for, they sell me the right stuff.  I don't assemble my own lines for anything other than low pressure stuff, up to 300 psi max, so I get them to assemble the power steering lines, for example.  The exception is teflon lined stainless steel braided lines for hydraulic brakes on my race cars, I assemble those myself.

Brian

[wal1809]

You may bor may not consider using an alternative fuel in the future.  If at anytime you think you might be using bio D in your bus I would consider replacing the old fuel lines with a bio D compatible fuel line. 

[Len Silva]

I can't vouch for whether it is a good idea or not but I do know of people using air brake tubing for fuel line with good long term results.

[chart1]

Replace,replace, replace... I just had a bad experience with a fuel line broke not completly but a steady stream while going down the road. I had just filled up , checked the oil everything looked good. Got back on the interstate and about 200 miles later I noticed the fuel gauge acting funny it was reading just below 1/2 tank. I pulled off the side of the road and the fuel line from the filter to the head had a good size leak the whole motor was covered in diesel along with my trailer I was pulling. The hose was the cheap part 40.00 with fittings at a truck shop. the expensive part was the $$$200 something in fuel I dumped out before noticing it.