On the juice

[wal1809]

There could be some truth about the too cool to burn. 

I read somewhere a while back, about some engines forming coke deposits because the WVO was catalysing in the combustion chamber. You know anything about that? I would imagine, that to get optimum combustion you need different injector nozzles and different timing.
With anything new there will be new problems to surmount. The easy course is to stay diesel all the way, no muss, no fuss. But using a resource that is readily available, using it twice in essence, is smart. Glad to see some pioneers working it out.

Yes I do.  Coking comes from running cold WVO.  The burn is not complete when entered into the engine cold.  It has been found heating the oik to 170 plus degrees will allow for a complete burn in the cylinder.  Imagine a cold pan on the stove and you place a tablespoon of oil then turn the burner on.  By the time it reaches 600 degrees your going to have a black tar mess on your pan.  Now heat the pan to 600 degrees and then throw the tablespoon of oil into the pan.  It will flash out leaving no traces of a burned glycerin build up.  Thus no coking the injector tips.

[Jerry32]

It may be that I used an electric fuel pump to pump the grease and did the job. I set up a 4 valve system bypassing the diesel back to the tank since I didn't use the engine driven pump. I also put an electric water pump on the coolant heating lines to get good curculation there.  Jerry

[wal1809]

I thought about useing a 12v pump at the tank to send fuel to the vales and then onto the engine pump.  I promise you, last night I would have paid $300 for a 12v pump when I was trying to re- prime the WVO fuel line.  Nothing worse than a mouth full of Dino D and WVO.

I had to build a better mousetrap becuase that was just nasty.  I took an old plastic 5 gallon gas can and stuck clear tuning in the pour spot and taped that with duct tape.  I stuck the other end of the clear tubing inside the fuel line from the WVO tank.  I took a vacuum pump and attached a line to the vent hole on the gas can.  I turned the pump on and let her rip.  I could see a whole lot of air and fuel air and fuel air and fuel.  It took about 1.5 gallons before I got a steady stream of fuel with no air bubbles.  I pinched the fuel hose with a clam and then pulled the clear tube out and attached it to the valve.  Not a problem or an air bubble sputter.

[Jerry32]

the electric pump is great for priming as I have a 24 volt pump and all the rest of the system is 24 volt. I just hook a line up to the pump intake and stick it in a can of diesel and turn it on and fills the engine up just fine. My electiric pump is set for 60 lbs pressure and seems to work fine that way. Jerry

[Charley Davidson]

Mine is setup to pump from anywhere to anywhere and if need be prime

I got more 3 way valves and pluming than a meth lab

[wal1809]

I might throw a pump in there later.  Right now I am just glad to be done with the major project and on the juice.  I can go to the lake just to go to the lake if I want to now.  It doesn't have to be an event planned around a fuel expense account.

[JohnEd]

WAL,

Info from the Blenders is as follows:  Mixing a little fuel into WVO or WMO, be that mix DinoD or BioD or RUG, bunches of stuff separates out and settles out faster than gravity will do.  In the case of WMO you get stuff to settle out that won't separate any other way.  The addition of RUG to WMO at a 10% ratio will give the settled WMO the same viscosity as Dino.  They run that as a fuel and "claim" no problems.  It is settled for a long time after blending.  The centrifuge does it in hours but if you have the time and space I wouldn't bother with one either.

Try this:  put some settled WVO in a bottle and add 25% DinoD and let it settle for a couple weeks.  Do the same with WVO and RUG and then with BioD.  Blending seems to bring even more stuff out to settle and clog filters.  I never done it but I have heard this more than a few times.  Can't tell how well they filtered and such, however.  curious what you find out.

Thanks for your help and info,

John

[JohnEd]

I understand priming and such.  I keep hearing about running the pump that is back at the tank to fill the line and filter.  the problem, as I see it, is that you need to open the line ansd spill the fuel till you ghet a good clear flow.

SOOOOO, why not plumb into the "spill return line" with a valve and let the purging flow simply return to the tank?  WVO or DinoD spill return is controlled by a valve so input the prime return into the line before the fuel select" valve.  I am trying to "not" touch fuel for ther priming task.  Any good in this idea?

Thanks,

John

[wal1809]

All good information John Ed.  The prime pump would work very well as you described the set up.  I just lat the vacuum continue to draw the fluid into the gas can until I saw it run clear and no bubbles then I hooked the line up to where it belongs.  I didn't even get a sputter out of the engine.  The Detroit is good about clearing some air initially.  A lot of air I wouldn't try.  All that has to happen is it to die and then your in for a prime job you din't want.

So far as settling.  I am not sure what the different thinning agents will do either and it only stands to reason they would settle differently.  I have though about filling the the surge tank to a certain point on the gauge and then have another pump to pump diesel on top of the WVO in the surge tank.  But I quickly dispatched that idea as I will only put x number of gallons in the bus for x number of miles.  That way I have semi purged tanks and not a lot of drop out sediments to clear out later.

The large holding tank I am installing now is 100 gallon.  I intend to later install a 200 gallon tank in its place.  It will be whatever dimension it takes to get to 200 but as tall and wide as the bay itself.  Be it a rectangle tall and wide it would take up less space than the cylindrical tank I have now.  That would take me nearly 1200 miles on one fill up.

[Jerry32]

That is the problem now having enough to get there and back or some place to get more on the way. My main tank is 105 gallons and I have a aux tank for about the same and that will get me the 1200 miles to Yuma but with littleleft over for the return trip. One problem I had was getting the engine up to temp. I found that the louvers were off and open on the radiators so turned them back on and was able to warm up the coolant. It still took about 20 miles down the road though. Jerry

[wal1809]

My boss and I were discussing a trip to Sturgis, SD June 2012.  We will be taking the bus and figured out we have to take 500 gallons of fuel to get there and back.  We have to tow a car so the trailer idea is out.  This is going to take a little engineering.

[JohnEd]

. I found that the louvers were off and open on the radiators so turned them back on and was able to warm up the coolant. It still took about 20 miles down the road though. Jerry

That just doesn't sound right.  If your louvers were disabled then the thermostat might have been removed.  All engines need to be brought up to operating temp as soon as possible.  All the expansion of the block and all is engineered and clearances are set.  Operate at low temp under heavy load and you are going to experience accelerated wear.  THEN there is the oil issue.....oil is too thick at below normal temp and doesn't get around as fast as it should and even more importantly the stuff will just keep accumulating water and acid unless it is brought up to its normal 180 degree temp.

In every vehicle I have driven since that 56 thru 59 Oldsmobile fiasco crap with the "do not drive till the "cold engine" light goes out".  They took that back cause the engines were dieing of sludge build up.  Everything I have read since then has advocated that the engine be run under light or moderate load and never at full RPM till the temp rises to "normal".  Oil must also be raised buy that might take a lot longer.

All my experience is automotive sooooooooo?

John

[boxcarOkie]

That is the problem now having enough to get there and back or some place to get more on the way. My main tank is 105 gallons and I have a aux tank for about the same and that will get me the 1200 miles to Yuma but with littleleft over for the return trip. One problem I had was getting the engine up to temp. I found that the louvers were off and open on the radiators so turned them back on and was able to warm up the coolant. It still took about 20 miles down the road though. Jerry

Hey, if I am reading this right, you are carrying 210 gallons and running 1200 miles.  Is that right?  That would be about 6mpg (give or take a few) on the trip average.  I carry about 150 gallons in the main (65 gal's in the aux) and usually get about 800 miles on a tank, which is about 5.5mpg.  Hard to figure because we use the genset quite bit and that enters into it and of course, messes up the math.

I usually crank mine up, let it run until the air buzzer kicks off and then I just drive it like I own it, seems to be working okay for us.

BCO

[wal1809]

As close as I can get the figuring, I am getting 7.8 mpg on diesel fuel.  That is with no tow and regular load underneath.  I won't know until later what wvo will do so far as mpg.  I lost some power and mpg with my Excursion.  We shall see.

[Charley Davidson]

I lost no power or MPG

How big is the trailer your pulling the car on? You could carry some oil on the trailer with the car.
Here's what I did on a Sturgis trip