Advice Needed on Buying A Tig Welders

[Fred Mc]

One of the problems with tig welding involves striking the arc without touching the metal with the tungsten because once you do the weld is contaminated and you have to stop and clean the tungsten. One of the things that REALLY helps here is an auto darkening helmet. You can see EXACTLY what you are doing and the instant the arc starts the helmet darkens. But then you can see the arc. And they aren't very expensive. I bought one 7 or 8 years ago for under $100. They are even cheaper now and its been great.

[bevans6]

the good thing is you no longer need to do a scratch start, the high frequency on almost all machines starts the arc.  I use a foot pedal for current control but I have heard the finger control torches are great too.  I actually came back on here to recommend a good auto  darkening helmet.  I'm just about to get a new one. the HF one I bought almost 10 years ago is finally giving up.

Brian

[wrench]

Wrench, Glad to hear another good report about them, I'm gonna buy a unit from them when my rich uncle ... well you know

Do you belong to their forum?

 I am a registered user, but don't post much.
I got the WeldAll 200PI, & the previous generation of WeldMax 164i.(the blue box).
          wrench

[luvrbus]

Ok guys I went with the Lincoln Precision 225 price was 700 bucks cheaper than the Thermadyde I wanted with a 3 year warranty versus a 1 year on the Thermadyne with less amps, duty cycle,free shipping and got a free self darkening Lincoln hood with auto off /on, 4 sensors and 1/20000 reaction time free was the key lol  and thanks Charley and Wrench but I just could make myself buy a China made unit good buy for that unit 


good luck

[rv_safetyman]

Clifford, looked at the specs and it sure looks like a great unit for what i would guess is your application.  Looks like it comes with an air cooled torch.  That is what I have, but I have looked at the water cooled torches and they are much smaller and look much easier to use.  I can't use water cooled as the shop is not heated.

The other issue you may run into is conflict with GFI breakers in your shop.  For some reason, my unit will shut them off.  I suspect it has something to do with the high frequency start.  First time I welded, I thought I had flashed my eyes when I lifted my hood and then it dawned on me that the GFI for the light outlets had tripped.

After you have played with the unit, give us a report on both the unit and how you are doing with welding.  As I pointed out earlier, I have struggled.  I can get a pretty good looking bead with good penetration, but getting a leak proof weld at the starting/stopping point gave me fits.  I used exhaust tubing for all of the plumbing on the conversion (air supply/charge air cooler/coolant water/exhust) and after I pressure tested everything, I found several leaks where I had started/stopped.  I had been very careful to restart the weld quite a ways back to re-flow the weld, but I guess I did not do it correctly.  I have gotten better, but it is a challenge.

One of the things I am bad about is letting the post flow feature do its job.  You really need to learn to leave the torch in position until the post flow stops - not natural for me.

I would assume that you got the foot pedal control.  That is what I have and it works fine when I can put the part on my welding bench and work on it in a non-contorted position.  I would love to try the thumb control torch sometime.  It should be much easier to use when you are in a hard to reach position.

Jim

[luvrbus]

Jim, I got the finger controlled you know I don't dance lol

good luck

[rv_safetyman]

Clifford, that was a good decision.  After we have a few years under our belt , it is hard to stand on one foot and control the foot pedal with the other - especially in an awkward position.

We are hoping to head to Bakersfield next week for some races.  I wish we had the time to detour to your place so that I could pick up the turbo and try your torch.   

Jim

[artvonne]

  A Chinese welder? I cant stand buying a pair of pliers made in China, I darn sure wont buy a large piece of equipment made there. Anywhere else, Taiwan, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Canadia. But not Chinese, no sir. I'll admit I own some, but ive really gone on a restrictive diet from it the last couple years, and I always look for the place of origin now when im looking at stuff.

  Besides Miller and Lincoln, dont forget Hobart. I was told Hobart is owned by Miller, and that Hobart is like two or three year old Miller technology and quality. Dont know all thats true, just passing along what I was told by a Miller dealer. I currently have a Hobart Ironman 210 MIG welder, and an older Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC stick welder

  And dont forget used equipment. Craigslist, Ebay, etc., there are always tons of stuff out there you can find reasonable. Just know what the item is and what its worth, etc., or look for a particular make or model you know about. There are always guys that buy something, cant figure out how to use it, then sell it a year later barely used. I bought the Ironman new, simply because there wasnt a lot of cost difference between what guys were asking for a used one, and a brand new one at Northern. I bought the Thunderbolt used for $50 from a guy at a pawn shop who was using it for a door stop. Then I sold my old Licoln 225 for what I paid for it 15 years earlier and before I dropped a lathe on it. LOL.

  AFAIK, everything in aviation is TIG.  Ive even heard some say stick and MIG are illegal on aircraft. I would love to have a TIG, but have decided I will wait until I have a bigger shop and can afford a good one. Or maybe I will scrounge some stuff and see if I can TIG with my Thunderbolt.

[Chopper Scott]

Good choices Clifford....