Adding a Fuel Assist Pump

dougyes · February 27, 2011, 08:41:56 AM

After sitting a while the bus looses prime and I have to fill the filter once or twice to get it started. With the fuel pro filter it's not hard to do, just messy. I'm thinking of adding an electric fuel pump like a Airtex E8153 (http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/mobile/mobile-auto-part-details.asp?prod=AIR-E8153) inline near the tank to help re-prime it. Do you think this will work with out restricting the normal fuel flow when we are running?

zubzub · February 27, 2011, 09:03:31 AM

rig it as a bypass..then you won't need to worry. Basically plumb in 2 "t"s and 2 full flow valves,then set it up so you can force the flow through the aux pump when needed. BTW this has been covered a few times already. Also BTW most systems have a check valve/valves to stop them from loosing prime...might as well fix those while you are all covered with diesel and have the lines open.

luvrbus · February 27, 2011, 09:08:37 AM

Buy the fuel pump for diesel use full flo thro AutoZone sells it for 70 bucks has the check valve 3/8 pipe and you don't need a bypass been using that one for years just install inline before the filters

Barn Owl · February 27, 2011, 10:02:33 AM

Why not fix the lost prime issue? Anything else is a band-aid.

luvrbus · February 27, 2011, 10:13:09 AM

He can buy the fuel pump with the check valve cheaper than buying the check valve from Detroit lol

good luck

dougyes · February 27, 2011, 12:04:49 PM

Thanks all! Luvrbus, Do you remember the model # on your Auto Zone pump? (I need all the info I can get when dealing with the guys there.)

pickpaul · February 27, 2011, 01:07:37 PM

Why does it have to be before the filters? Can't it pull from the other side? I plan on using one on my veggie conversion after the fuel selection 3 way valve to prime either system. I'd also love the part number if poss. Thanks, Paul.

JohnEd · February 27, 2011, 01:24:10 PM

PP,

You can mount it after the filter. That just isn't the best place. The best place is back at the outlet from the tank. That way you can use the pump to reprime the sys, reprime the filter, compensate for line failure that is allowing air to be "sucked" into the fuel and no one has ever mentioned that if your filter gets clogged, the pump in the rear will "push" enough filtered fuel through the clogged filter to allow you to do your filter swap at a spot of your convenience. There seems to be no down side to this design. All the discussions on this topic before now have involved "t"s and check valves and a pump and shortened/lengthened lines. Simple on paper and not a great project but Clifford has shared that they make a full flow pump(without power) with a built in check valve. I wish I had had that info 6 months ago. I am glad I got it tho.

I would throw in the towel and put a pump at the outlet of both your D and WVO tanks because it would be easy and you wouldn't be messing with your current design. Also, there is a common failure to hold prime that involves air bleeding into the sys. That problem is hard to fnd but if it happens with a pump you could simple follow the fuel stream through the bus.

HTH,

John

Len Silva · February 27, 2011, 02:06:55 PM

There is a very good chance that the DD check valve just needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and put back together again at no cost.

luvrbus · February 27, 2011, 02:24:54 PM

The check valves made in the last 30 or so years don't come apart they look like they do but don't they are made the same way as the air box check valves fwiw wash and blow with air is about all you can do

good luck

Len Silva · February 27, 2011, 03:53:04 PM

Guess I'm just getting too old

gus · February 28, 2011, 12:01:19 PM

After the one and only time I ever lost prime I took the check valve on my 4104 apart and cleaned it, even made a new small gate for it from a piece of scrap metal and it now works fine.