Is my water pump broken?? - Page 2
 

Is my water pump broken??

Started by thomasinnv, February 23, 2011, 05:17:56 PM

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artvonne

  

 I think I need to start keeping notes on these potential failure modes, lol. Ah yes, the freewheeling water pump issue........

 Dont the nut have a locking mechanism, a tabbed washer or something??

artvonne

Quote from: TomC on February 24, 2011, 12:21:39 PM
Considering the cost of a cracked head or overheating to the point of an engine overhaul, don't fool around.  Replace the water pump and thermostats! Good Luck, TomC

  I thought it was you and RJ and some others who said 190F was MAX temp on a DD?

RickB

I have always believed that 210 is the shutdown for wet sleeve motors and 215 for dry sleeve. Where did 190 come into the conversation?

Probably an inside joke between you guys I bet

RB
I will drive my Detroit hard... I will drive my Detroit hard.

thomasinnv

Like TomC said, I decided it's not worth the risk to save a few bucks in parts and a few hours labor.  It would be nice to be able to just slip on another impeller and tighten er up, but i'm not willing to take the chance.  I am going to go ahead and order a full kit which includes new impeller, new shaft and all associated bearings, gaskets and seals to do a complete rebuild.

a pump through mohawk is $679.  ouch

all new parts to replace everything inside the housing... $61.86  kind of a no brain er.  (that includes the impeller and shaft)
Some are called, some are sent, some just got up and went.

1998 MCI 102-DL3
Series 60 12.7/Alison B500
95% converted (they're never really done, are they?)

artvonne

Quote from: thomasinnv on February 24, 2011, 01:15:11 PM

a pump through mohawk is $679.  ouch

all new parts to replace everything inside the housing... $61.86  kind of a no brain er.  (that includes the impeller and shaft)

  Wow. More than $600 labor just to clean it up and put new parts in? And you know their gettin those parts for less than we are. Methinks some of our fellow countrymen are gettin to big for their britches. Just how much do they think they are worth these days?

thomasinnv

Well all the new water pump parts finally came in so I took them all down to the machine shop and had them put it all together.  Every thing new but the housing and the gear.  I stood next to the guy while he did it with da book in hand with step by step instructions.  Put it back on the bus and filled er up.  There is a drip coming out the weep hole about every minute.  I am assuming that either the water seal didn't seal properly in the housing or there might have gotten some grit or something in between the seal and the insert.  he did apply a thin film of sealant to the metal lip of the seal as per da book.  I plan on ordering another water seal and impeller and replacing it my self, da book says it can be done without removing the pump from the engine.

question for clifford or don, or some other knowledgeable gear head....the book calls for using a seal puller set J 22150-B to remove the seal without taking the pump completely apart.  Is this tool necessary or can the seal be removed with common tools?  the shaft will still be in place while doing this.  I know some of these DD tools are hard to find, and usually pretty expensive to buy. 
Some are called, some are sent, some just got up and went.

1998 MCI 102-DL3
Series 60 12.7/Alison B500
95% converted (they're never really done, are they?)

hargreaves

Just use a regular gear puller  You might want to run it a bit the seal may seat itself.  good luck  Gerry
now as of Feb 2012 series 50 B400  . Sunshine Coast British Columbia

luvrbus

Derrick, you need to watch those after market seal kit is your made of stainless and carbon or brass 


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

artvonne

Quote from: luvrbus on March 05, 2011, 01:29:28 PM
Derrick, you need to watch those after market seal kit is your made of stainless and carbon or brass 


good luck

  Along this line, where do you usually buy parts. Do you buy all OEM parts from the dealer? Just some? Is there anything aftermarket worthy?

luvrbus

Good aftermarket parts are out there just so much junk being sold on the net made in China and Mexico for the 2 strokes now some parts I only buy from DD you need to be careful there is a rash of valve failures going on now because of Mexican made valves they cup and go into the head, Derrick bought his kit for less than 1/2 of what I pay at DD but I only do it one time sorry Derrick lol


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

thomasinnv

I bought the parts from Mohawk.  The seal is stainless and carbon.  I made a 200 mile trip today.  Just a few miles into the trip the leak stopped.  When I parked it I got out the mirror and flash light and the weep hole is bone dry.  Been parked for about 8 hours now and still no leak.  Maybe it did seat itself like Gerry said.
Some are called, some are sent, some just got up and went.

1998 MCI 102-DL3
Series 60 12.7/Alison B500
95% converted (they're never really done, are they?)

luvrbus

That is a good seal Derrick hope it stays dry for you ,Mohawk does sell the good, bad and ugly I am real cautious when buying some parts from there they get most of the DD parts from Interstate/McBee

good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

artvonne

  So Luke at US coach, good place to buy GOOD parts????

thomasinnv

It seems to be leaking again.  It was still dry several hours after shut down, but today it is wet again.  Looks like I will be tearing it apart after all.  Da book is absolutely adamant about being sure there is no dust or debris of any kind between the seal and the insert, or proper seal between the 2 surfaces will not be achieved.  Wonder if the machinist got something in there when he put it together?  Will see I guess.  Clifford, any special tricks up your sleeve for a successful seal replacement?
Some are called, some are sent, some just got up and went.

1998 MCI 102-DL3
Series 60 12.7/Alison B500
95% converted (they're never really done, are they?)