Need parts for tag axel.

Flight102C3 · September 15, 2010, 10:08:26 AM

Hi everybody!! I'm working on my tag axel (102C3). I need the bushing, orings and a few other parts. Who would be the best supplyer? ABC in MN wants 300.00 for the bushing. Thanks for now. Flight 102

Busted Knuckle · September 15, 2010, 10:44:39 AM

Try Luke at US Coach! Or even since it is an MCI, might try them!

BK

junkman42 · September 15, 2010, 12:35:15 PM

There was a listing on ebay for a kit for both tags! Look at mci not mci bus! John L

junkman42 · September 15, 2010, 12:45:50 PM

Should have said query _mci tag axle__, that will get You the item! John L

busshawg · September 15, 2010, 12:48:09 PM

I got mine a couple of months back right from MCI, good service and resonable price, not the cheapest, but reasonable. I like to deal with them as long as the price is close to inline as I have always recieved the correct parts delivered.

Grant

Flight102C3 · September 16, 2010, 05:20:54 AM

Thanks for the info!! I could use the phone numbers. Thanks again very much. Flight 102

Busted Knuckle · September 16, 2010, 07:12:18 AM

Quote from: Flight102C3 on September 16, 2010, 05:20:54 AM
Thanks for the info!! I could use the phone numbers. Thanks again very much. Flight 102

google.com

bs4104 · September 16, 2010, 08:45:33 AM

U.S.          Canada
800-323-1238    800-665-0155 (English)
Toll Free Fax:    800-546-3457 (Français)
800-525-4569    Toll Free Fax: 800-872-2486

http://www.mcicoach.com/Parts-Service-Support/partsServiceSupport.htm

Flight102C3 · September 19, 2010, 07:46:19 AM

I ordered the parts from MCI. Very nice people. I have a question about the axel tube. It says there is a dowel pin and other parts. what is the reason for the pin? Can't get to it unless I take the cross tube off. I'm just needing to replace the bushing. Thanks Flight 102

busshawg · September 22, 2010, 06:49:47 AM

when I replaced my bushing I used a 12 inch blade in my recipicating saw. The bushing is longer however it is brass and easily bent with a chisel inbetween the tube and bushing. I made 3 cuts, then used chisel and it came right out. One thing I wasn`t aware of when I removed the old bushing was that it is not perfectly round. By this I mean the walls of the bushing are thincker and it has a lip at the outside that prevents one from installing it too far. So when cutting be careful you do not score the tube. Also on the outside of this bushing there is a dowel type thing that has to line up with a notch in the tube, you will see this notch once you remove the old one. The notch and dowel (not sure if this is the proper name) must line up with the notch in the tube. This is a little tricky as the bushing is sticking out the length of it and is a little hard to line up. Mine was a little out when I installed, I simply cut a small portion of the bushing notch or dowel to accomidaite this. If you don`t , and you force it the bushing will bent up and you will not get your axle in. Put the new bushing in the freezer for the night, if you have no way of pressing it in , get a good chunk of oak blocking and get ready to give it some really good hits with a big sledge hammer to install it. I was intimidated by this job before I did it, but after doing one it`s just not that big of a deal. I did not recieve a dowel pin so I have no idea what it would be for. Oh, the 2 reasons for matching the notch on the tube and the knobby part on the bushing is that the bushing has thicker parts to the walls and this keeps your axle running straight and has more to wear at the pressure points, also the bushing has holes in it to accomidaite the holes in the tube for your grease zerks. You probably know all of this, just hoping to make things a little easier for you.

Grant