Inside walls.....

[Eric]

So the wife and i have finished insulating the bus(while living in it ) and now have to figure out what and how to attach to the structure of the bus? 2x4's like a house? or 2x2's to save space? how does one attach said building material? any input GREATLY appreciated!

[Melbo]

I took metal studs and cut them in half and used them --- similar to 2 by 2's and much lighter in weight and if I needed more space I used them full size

HTH

Melbo

[Paladin]

Does anyone insulate interior walls if only for acoustic purposes? Say the bathroom or maybe the master bedroom? 

[TomC]

I used 3/4" furniture grade Birch plywood.  On two of the walls that were un supported in the bathroom, used 1.5" angle iron on the inside with 1.5" flat iron on the outside to stiffen it up.  Many might not like seeing the angle iron, but has been primed and painted white.  Not one person has ever commented on the unsightliness of using the angle iron.  3/4" thickness is alot less then 2x2" studs when trying to save every fraction of an inch.  Good Luck, TomC

[JackConrad]

We used 3/4" oak furniture grade plywood fo all interior walls. Walls were attached to sides of the bus with aluminum angle or 1x2 wood cleats. Our floor plan allowed for all cleats and aluminum angle to be inside closets or cabinets so they are no visible except by looking inside the clostes/cabinets.  Jack

[robertglines1]

Our two cross bus walls (walk thru bath) are basically large 36 inch pocket doors it their frames with 3/8 plywood as wall board..anchored to bus walls with self drilling screws..1by 3 lumber stips will fit inside these frames and are screwed to bus  walls then cross walls anchored to them. metal angle where it can be hidden..anchored top and bottom with same process..this leaves about 1 1/2 inch below door for air circulation..sound traveling does not seem to be a problem as we let one door open to curb side and other to drivers side..no straight shot for sound..very similar to Jacks ...on our walls we have used in past and are doing on present coach build we staple quilt batting and upholstery with the fabric color and pattern to compliment the rest of the interior.  Once you have fastened a working surface to side walls you can proceed to attach just like in home building..except double the fasteners...self tapping screws for metal studs (dry wall or ply wood to studs) work great..I use the ones designed for ply wood that have bigger tapered heads that pull down flush to plywood..Just took a professional conversion apart..on the ceiling to hold cross coach walls they put 1/2 inch plywood strips on each side of wall screwed to roof..but didn"t use but approx 1/8 thick by 1/2 wide 90 degree 2 inch long  to attach walls to floor and walls..not enough for my taste..just some thoughts and observations..adhesives plus screws works for us....happy bussing...enjoy life...Bob

[Joe Camper]

We do not have a stud anywhere in the bus. All the walls are simply solid 1in. plywood, period.

They are keyed to the floor, sliding over a cleat and are butted up to cleats on the wall and ceiling.

Where wiring is nessesary there is plenty of space to cut wire chase with a router.

Most surfaces are then laminated. Very very strong.

[BG6]

Does anyone insulate interior walls if only for acoustic purposes? Say the bathroom or maybe the master bedroom? 

All walls in the master bedroom should be well-insulated, including the wall dividing bedroom from bathroom.  You want the bedroom to have the best passive temperature control possible -- good ventilation in summer, warm cocoon in winter -- because you spend more time here than any other part of the coach, while at the same time needing stable temps for quality of sleep.

[Geoff]

The best way to frame out walls is with 1" square steel tubing.  The thin stuff works great and you can weld it to the bus frame or anchor it to the floor.

[robertglines1]

lots of good suggestions here..any one will give you a good product..use what you have available and anchor it well..Insulation between walls will be decided if you use pocket doors or not..we keep our bedroom in the upper 60's year round..a little sheet maybe blanket up to mid...well that"s your choice...keep on going and you'll end up with your dream...happy bussing Bob..P.S. Glad you insulated well!

[Wax-um]

I did my walls Bobs way, just like building a house. very large doors for an open floor plan look plus room in the walls for wiring plumbing electrical and such. Ill do the next coach the same way. Yes Ill insulate them not sure why other than its cheap and easy.

[pabusnut]

I am using 1-5/8 steel studs and track.  Makes strong walls w/room for putting in outlets(use different plastic boxes) running wires(in conduit) and plumbing.  Every one is straight and will not warp.  I used 2-1/2 in. studs on the wet wall behind the shower to fit the single lever valve in the wall.  Also, steel studs are very forgiving when you realize you've made a mistake, and can be very easlily taken apart and re-screwed back together. (I rarely make mistakes, but others might--!!)

Steve Toomey
PAbusnut 

[Tenor]

I used 3/4 inch pine as vertical studs, then notched in more 3/4 inch pine for horizontal pieces at the floor, ceiling and in the middle.  I covered these with 5/16th (approx) thick tongue and groove knotty pine.  You can drill straight into the 3/4 inch width to run screws between your studs and your horizontal pieces.  You can use a Kreg jig to make pocket screws to attach to the floor and ceiling.

Glenn

[crown]

 i used 3/4 plywood used a homemade  kreg jig on both sides then scewed them in then glued 1/8 ply on both sides and stained
it lookes great but would not want to tear it out  crown

[Bill B /bus]

I used the same method on two buses. On the walls and ceiling a layer of 1/4 " plywood, usually Luan, screwed to the existing metal framing,ribs. The second layer of 1/4" is glued and stapled to the first. Overlap the seams. Takes probably three gallons of wood glue. This gives you a 1/2" to anchor whatever you want to mount. I used the ceramic insulation on all metal inside the bus. All metal is covered. Don't forget to foam the ribs and the framing for the windows.

For walls I use 3/4" lumber or plywood, with plywood make sure you have a stiffener to prevent bowing. Aluminum  angle as cleats which can be hidden inside cabinets or under ceiling covering.

Vertical surfaces that are not windows or good wood for show are covered in formica. Makes a great wear resistant and washable surface.

Ceiling is done in Naugahyde. 16" exposed strips running side to side, helps reflect the valence lights.

Don't forget to run your wiring before the you cover everything.
And think about your lighting. What kind. And where do you need/want the illumination.

Bill