Now I can't get the PS pump off... grrr

[bevans6]

I have undone the bolts on the PS pump, it is loose and will flop around, but gets hung up about 1/2" from the mount.  What is causing it to hang up?  What is the trick to removing the pump?

Please help, I need some advice here!

Brian

[zubzub]

Well Bevan, I'm home recovering from a nasty flu so you get my 2 cents. 
Sometimes when a shaft is in a close fitting tube, the weight on the opposite end   causes the end of the shaft (especially if it has groove tooled in) to hang up in the tube, add some lube for suction and it can really feel stuck.  If you are sure there is nothing holding it in there, a couple of wooden dowels (any wood really and I guess steel in a pinch) spanning the housing and mounting face then reef on the bottom edge of the dowels (thus lifting weight off the shaft) .

[DaveG]

Is it a spline drive? Think like a clutch driven disk that has been rattling on the input shaft.

[bevans6]

is anyone familiar with accessory drives on an 8V71?  I don't have a picture in any of my manuals.  it looks like a internal splined ring bolted to the pump that engages over an external splined gear on the engine, but I don't know what would cause it to hang up.  manual just says undo the two bolts and take it off...

Brian

[Just Dallas]

Removed

[OneLapper]

You cannot pull it straight out.  You have to rotate the pump side coupling for it to line up with the slots in the housing.  When the engine was shut off, the coupler wasn't lined up perfectly with the slots, which prevents you from pulling it straight out.  I'll post a picture if I can find one.

[Barn Owl]

I had the same problem and had to do what OneLapper said.

[bevans6]

Onelapper, a picture of the coupling might be worth a thousand words here...if you can, I'd be grateful.  Is the next step to bar the engine over to get the slots and tabs to line up, or is there a way to get the coupling to rotate?  It seems to still be engage on the drive gear.

Thanks, Brian

[wildbob24]

Brian,

Here's a few photos, one of the drive housing and a couple of the driven hub on the pump......maybe they'll help.

Bob

[fe2_o3]

Dude; You must have one GIANT camera!!!...Cable

[bevans6]

Dr Detroit sez "I'm ready for my closeup..."

Thanks very much, I can clearly see the tabs and slots that I need to line up.  Great!

Brian

[Busted Knuckle]

Brian,
FWIW I never have had a problem getting one out, but I swear there's been times I wanted to "burn a bus" try'n to get one back in!
  BK 

[bevans6]

for posterity, all I had to do to get the pump off was rotate the engine about 15 degrees at the crank, and the slots lines up with the dogs on the drive and off it popped.  Now, I have confirmed that the relief valve is totally siezed in it's bore and I have calls out to find a replacement pump with the correct 2000 psi rating.  Fingers crossed...

Brian

[JohnEd]

nope, your splines are worn, drag it out with a puller if you have to, and you'll end up replacing the gears and drive anyway.


Please tell me you heard Dallas say that.  I think he was supposed to scream it.  But I dunno

John

[bevans6]

The "splines, gears and drive" are 100%, as far as I can tell.  As soon as the dogs line up, the pump lifts right off, one handed.  Although since it's a dog drive, not sure where the splines are, but the dogs look like new.  I think some other styles of drive do use splines.  Pump was upgraded to VTM 42 from the original spec VTM 27, and there is what looks like a date code on the pump of 1997, but it is still a 1000 psi pump while the Sheppard box is looking for 2000 psi, and it's perfect aside from having the bore of the relief valve hole all rusted and the valve itself seized in there.  I found one, new, only an arm and a leg...  I'll have it tomorrow.

Brian