Alarmstat Good or Bad?

[JohnEd]

Because the engine is broken at 213 or so.  220 is locking the barb door after the horse is gone.........  Might as well drive it home at that point.

sorta!

John

[Rick 74 MC-8]

Then why do they make a 220   

                                                                               Rick 74 MC-8

[JohnEd]

auto systems with their many pound psi caps run at much higher temps.  The senders are used in hydraulic fluid, transmissions, differentials and engine oil.  Surely you know that 215 isn't terminal for your average Chevy.  With zero psi water boils at 212 so what is the boil point at 17 PSI.  What is the max pressure that Stant makes a cap to hold?  Your findings?

I have the same temp sender installed in my coolant as I do in my differential.  They feed the same meter thru a selection switch and the meter has a red indicator lite when the switch is in the "diff" position.  Easy install as I put the sender in the fill plug after drilling and threading. The oil and trans senders go to over 300 and I saw 300 on the Torqueflite before I installed a cooler in addition to the stock one that is in the rad.  Research the mfrs data sheets and you will see that you can monitor and alarm at almost and temp range or point you might wish.

John

[luvrbus]

FWIW you can buy the alarmstat shut down up to 260 degrees for engines that is a little warm for a DD lol

[buswarrior]

Electronic engines are more likely to warn you before shut down, and/or de-rate the power in the process.

they are all different, as to vintage and manufacturer and settings.

Older tech, not so likely.

the one in an MC8 that shut down on me at 70 mph on a slight up grade was instantaneous, and there's a sensation of a bang of sorts, along with all the lights and noise, which contributes to the wild thoughts of destruction going through your head, as well as the startle.

And then try getting over 4 lanes to the right after you gather your wits and the speed is dropping off uncontrollably.

Yes, Rick, installing a pair, one to warn and one to trigger would be a neat way to do it. It would be really trick to duplicate that for both sides.

Who was it back a bunch of years ago that finally found an intermittent wiring failure in their auto shut down was causing engine run problems?

As with everything busnut, yet another topic of choice in building your own!

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[JohnEd]

BW,

It would be really trick to duplicate that for both sides.


I don't think so....hard that is.  Both of the shut down systems are paralleled.  No need to have two separate systems.  I think the oil alarm stat is ganged in there also.  You oly have one auto fuel shut off....right?

Hope a copy of a circuit surfaces that incorperates a time delay.

[kyle4501]

Yep, I had a problem with the auto shut down killing the engine - turned out to be a bad sensor, damn thing tested fine when stopped, but would randomly flake out while at speed on the highway. Stayed in the right lane to make pulling over easier. Then the starter failed (the Bendix pivot fell out) so restarts were imaginative.  But a ford ranger can push start a bus, several times . . . lots easier on the Ford if you ain't going up hill & the bus is still aired up.   

john, if you are worried about what I think about you, you are wasting time. 
don't worry, be happy

opinions & belly buttons . . . .


If you have multiple t-stats, wouldn't you need multiple alarmstats inorder to keep tabs on the multiple water circuts?

[luvrbus]

The standard setup for a 92 series if everything is still in tach which I doubt is on these buses, warning at 205 lights and buzzer shut down at 210 degrees mechanical or DDEC and the DDEC will be on the money no matter what your gauge reads


good luck

[buswarrior]

In a typical MCI 8V71, the dash gauge is plumbed into one thermostat housing, and a single alarmstat in each thermostat housing.

So, you can only "see" half the engine, but the warning and/or shut down is plumbed to both.

You don't get the bad news if the thermostat in the blind side gets lazy until it triggers...

Rick's idea, and my further suggestion to duplicate for both sides meant to do an analog job on it. Screw two into each thermostat housing, one set lower to warn, one set higher to shut down. And if plumbing to this extent, having a temp sensor in each for twin gauges, might need some creativity to make space, but what are busnuts for, if not creativity?

There are lots better topics than auto-shut down to get ourselves bent out of shape over.

happy coaching!
buswarrior