Drop Box Install Jack/Fixture

[Fredward]

Does anybody have a picture of how they re-installed their drop box on either and Eagle or MC-5? I've got mine back up in there but can't get it situated correctly to get it back on the differential. I'm trying to fabricate a fixture to do it and would appreciate detailed engineering drawings; photos and pencil sketches on cocktail napkins.
Fred

[tomhamrick]

When we replaced ours on the Eagle we used an ATV jack to hold it up so we could get it in position.
Tom Hamrick
1984 Eagle 10S

[rv_safetyman]

On an Eagle there is tubing framework above the axle.  I made a bridge to go across the framework and put a pulley in line with the pumpkin.  I then used a come-along to winch the pumpkin up first and then the drop box.  The come-along was parallel to to ground.  Think I made the bridge long so that it stuck out the driver's side of the bus to make operating the come-along easier. 

Had the bus up on jacks so there was more clearance between the frame and the pumpkin than normal.

Worked pretty darn good.

Jim

[luvrbus]

Fred, 2 chains, floor jack and 2 turn buckles works for me attach the chains at input flange and adjust the angle with the turn buckles, a regular adjustable transmission jack from a rental store works good also.


good luck

[David Anderson]

Fred,

Just curious, but why did you take it out?

David

[Fredward]

We winched it up in there with a comealong and then just manhandeled it into place last night. Used a floor jack to hold it up there. I like the idea of chains and turnbuckles. That would have been excellent. Its really tight quarters on an MC-5.

Dave, we removed it a)because it threw about six quarts of lube on a 2500 mile trip - all coming from the input shaft; b)because the bus has had a vibration noticeable in the rear half of the coach for quite awhile. Upon returning from the trip I pulled the drivers side duals off and had the driveshaft balanced. Upon further discussion here (thanks Clifford) reading your thread, and other places (in the neighborhood) it was determined that if it was leaking that bad and vibration was noticeable there might be real expensive things about to happen inside. So I figured "how hard can it be" ?

I should have a chance to reassemble everything and test drive next week. The weekend of thee 15th we have a trip up to Lake Vermillion here in Minnesota so we'll give it a real good test.
Fred

[bevans6]

What did you find when you looked inside?

Brian

[Fredward]

When it came apart it had loose bearings on the input shaft and a leaking seal. I did not tackle that job myself. Steve at C&J bus removed four shims and replaced the input flange. The flange was worn pretty bad and wobbled on the shaft; probably one more source of the vibration I was feeling.

Kind of amazing; I expected more to be wrong than that. But he estimated the end play to be in excess of 20 thousandths so I suppose that might be enough to take the seal out. At any rate, it was leaking so bad underway that I had to do something. Six quarts in 2500 miles is fairly unworkable in my book.

Fred