MCI 9 Drivers OTR Heat
 

MCI 9 Drivers OTR Heat

Started by Kenny, March 21, 2010, 11:42:32 AM

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Kenny

If I remove the OTR main heater core (the big heater core from inside the baggage compartment), plug the ends of the lines that went to it, shouldn't the drivers OTR heat continue to work? And yes I did turn the valves to and from the engine back on.

Kenny
1941 and 1945 Flxible - South Lyon, Michigan

bevans6

I think it's in the same loop as the main core.  You could connect the two lines together rather than capping them, maybe.  I know the main heater line tap in the passenger side engine bay (near the electric heater valve) controls heat to both the drivers heat and the main heat on my MC-5C.

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

MC8Mike

Yes you can plumb it so the drivers heat and defrost still work. I did away with the coach heater core and evaporator and put a RV basement A/C unit in their place but kept the drivers heat functioning.
1973 MC8 in progress. 8V92TA, HT740D, Ross Steering. Fallon, Nevada

Kenny

Is it as simple as removing the OTR main cabin heater core and plug the lines that went to the heater core? This is all I've done and it seems I have no water flow to the drivers heater core now.
1941 and 1945 Flxible - South Lyon, Michigan

robertglines1

two things.. main heater core might be required to stay loop (bypassed on MCI)Its been awhile since I bypassed one on a MCI;also ck to see if you don't have a in line solenoid to release water to the drivers/defroster.you might have to put a switch on it to bypass the.(    pedometer(Sp) control circuit..look in ceiling of spare tire compartment. or along side front defroster core..also ck to see if you have a water pump to help water flow;would be electric in line pump...good luck...
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

buswarrior

The defroster and the big heater core were plumbed in parallel.

So, as long as you terminated the big heater core at it's spur lines, and didn't cut off the main pipes...

Bleed the defroster core at the screw at the top of it, it'll be air-locked after you had the system opened up.

Everything should work as stock after that.

What did you do with the control valve from up high in the first baggage bin?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Kenny

Buswarrior thanks for your info. Normally I don't post many questions without going through a search of the board first along with studying the bus manuals. Thought it was parallel piping and all should have worked. I'll bleed the drivers heater core this week and post an outcome. As far as the control valve goes, its still there and I've not made up my mind to remove it yet since I may use it later for another hair brain scheme I have. Again Thanks
1941 and 1945 Flxible - South Lyon, Michigan

Lin

I guess the 9 is done differently than the 5a.  I have removed the OTR cores, closed the valves and plug the lines.  The driver's heat is piped separately so is not affected.  Although I do not know how it would be done, but I have wondered if the old OTR heat lines could be used to install an extra radiator should it ever be wanted.
You don't have to believe everything you think.

buswarrior

Yes, Lin, an excellent opportunity to do just that.

With all the gyrations that busnuts go through to try and cool an MCI, why we don't hear about more projects of reworking the heater core and using it as another radiator...

You figure how much heat could be dumped overboard mounting a supplemental radiator in place of the AC condenser...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Kenny

That's part of my hair brained scheme. Add a radiator in the spare tire compartment. Force feed air from the front of the bus through intake grates, through the radiator and then down under the the bus. Use the existing OTR main heater water control valve to enable supplemetal cooling without additional electric fan loading.
Kenny
1941 and 1945 Flxible - South Lyon, Michigan

ttomas

 On a 1983 mc9, I removed the heater core and tied the hoses from each side together in order to keep the flow of things going. I also incorporated small radiators throughout the coach for heat while traveling. I may be wrong, but my visual investigation, while we had the floor out, found that capping the ends stopped the flow.  its been a few years since.
hope this helps, Tom

Michael Mc

My MC5B has a hand valve to the left of the driver's seat at floor level that kills the water flow to the driver's heat/defroster.  Handy to know in the heat of the summer.  Found that one after all the sweat from inside me was outside me.   ;D

Lin

Tom,

I would guess that closing the valves, as we've done, already stopped the flow.  Capping the ends just avoid drips if the valves happen to leak.  Is there anything negative about stopping the flow if one is not using it as you are?
You don't have to believe everything you think.

ttomas

I think you will be okay and it seems to be the consensus here as well.
Tom

niles500

Kenny - Excellent idea - Don't forget to post the outcome - thanks
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- Niles