New Dash Project
 

New Dash Project

Started by Melbo, February 24, 2010, 06:11:32 PM

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Melbo

Here is a picture of the new dash that I have assembled as well a rough fit in the coach.

The surface is blue plexiglas and I will have lights behind the dash to light up the labels so I can locate the proper switches at night.

Lots of details still to be worked out and I am keeping a wiring diagram and good notes so I know how to correct any problems.

Also each section of the dash can be removed separately so any changes do not require the complete removing of the dash

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

Melbo

When I took the old dash out I could really see where the frame in the front of the bus was damaged at one time.

I had a MAJOR problem installing the windshield on the drivers side and you can see in this picture why that was.

I did a good work around and now I am on to the dash.

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

bobofthenorth

Its looking great Mel.  Are you trying to shame me into getting started on mine?
R.J.(Bob) Evans
Used to be 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
Currently busless (and not looking)

The last thing I would ever want to do is hurt you.
Its the last thing but its still on the list.

HighTechRedneck


luvrbus

Mel, what are you using for the back lighting my dash is done in black Plexiglas with engraved names for each instrument and switch with individual lights for each .
I am having a problem locating the lights now that I used.
Bob posted a photo here for me for the type I used if you use that type please tell me where you found the lites



good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

Melbo

Clifford I am using custom 12 volt lights that I designed myself -- if your lights are anything like the lites that are stock on an MCI dash or the side panel I will have a lot of them left when I clean up my wiring. I would be glad to part with them. I keep stuff just so long then the "TRASH MAGNET" in the bottom of the dumpster gets them.  Let me know and I will email them to you and if that won't work I will put them in an envelope and ups them to you.

Melbo

ps my labels are printed in white on clear plastic and applied to the top of the plexiglas
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

luvrbus

Mel, I be in ALB next week at Jim Smith's place maybe we can do lunch.


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

Melbo

You eagle guys hang together

I think I am a "LONE" MCI guy ( however there is a "7" down the street from me )

It would be good to see you -- I will pm you with my cell

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

Melbo

Here is a look at the work area in the office at the house. My girlfriend has been most agreeable and cleaned around my mess.

It's cold outside so I moved the work area inside.

Bob you would be hard pressed to do this on the road I'm thinking but it might could be done.

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

Singing Land Cruiser

Very nice Mel, how many $ that going for? M&C
Entertainers/BUSNUTS
http://singinglandcruiser.blogspot.com/
RV Park MGRS/ Sans End RV Park
Master Mason, Noble Shriner
'77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71

Aussiecoach

Hi Mel

Looks good.
Just wondering what thickness the Plexiglas you used is?

Cheerz
Glen


Melbo

Glen -- the plexiglas is about 1/8th inch thick and the only place that seemed to need support was at the start switch because the button is very firm to press

Micheal -- that depends on what part you are talking about. The printing was priced to me from 30 dollars to 675 dollars -- the plexiglas was 20 bucks -- the gauges, switches, and wiring could be reused or purchased new -- I bought some new and reused some but I bought a bunch of wiring and relays --- 12 volt gauges and LED's (yes they have resistors) are easier to find but need to be wired to work properly with the 24 volt system in the bus. So you can spend kind of whatever you want starting at about 200 bucks all the way up to thousands -- and if you want to hire me to do your dash by the time I get done I would bill you enough that I could own a new bus when your dash is finished.  When do you want me to start?????

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

TomC

Melbo- that dash looks awesome!  One little thing I'd like you to do is to just place the steering wheel on the shaft and see what gauges are going to be blocked.  I know on my dash, the water gauge was behind the steering wheel to the point that I had to lean forward to see it.  Yet the volt meter was to the right easily visible at all times.  Needless to say I switched the volt meter and the water temp gauge so the water temp is always visible and the volt meter is hidden behind the steering wheel.  Just convenient to have your most used gauges visible without having to move.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Melbo

Tom

I made a temporary dash with quarter inch plywood that has been used for the last six months or so and I learned from that where to place the gauges so I checked and rearranged so the most important are top and center and the most important of the most important are to the left per a tip from Dallas. Hopefully I got it right but if I need to I can change or remake any one of the five sections of the dash independent of the the other parts.

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF