warped and noisy entry door help

white-eagle · December 22, 2009, 07:28:07 PM

i just realized i'm going to be at one of the premier bus events with lots of experts available to guide me in repairing my entry door. it has one deadbolt latch in the middle that has to be latched or the door opens going down the road.

the 1 inch frame seems to be warped out at the bottom which allows about a 1 inch gap which i've tried to close with garage door gasket, but still a lot of wind noise. don't know if it can be dismantled, heated, and flattened back out, then put in some sort of new bolts to hold it shut.

suggestions? anyone going to the rally? no, i haven't asked Jack yet. just remembered (with my wife's help) that it's noisy above 35mph. i'm hoping there are appropriate tools at the Conrad garage

cody · December 22, 2009, 07:37:14 PM

Tom, I'll be eagerly watching the responses to this thread, my iggle door is also noisy and appears to be out at the bottom, not as much but slightly and could be tighter.

gumpy · December 22, 2009, 07:41:00 PM

Are you sure you can't simply adjust the hinges?

white-eagle · December 22, 2009, 07:50:43 PM

cody, i'd love to be able to bring you, or facilitate, getting your door fixed if we can practice on mine to determine the best fix.

Craig, my hinges are actually welded loops on the door, and the frame, with a rod thru them. you can see the warp in the door itself, that bends out at the bottom. that wind sucks out with a lot of pressure obviously. this is thick metal door pieces.

i don't think a simple hinge fix is in the cards even tho hinge fix itself might not be that easy.

i'm thinking dismantle, then lay the frame on flat surface, then heat until sprung back to flat.

cody · December 22, 2009, 08:27:45 PM

My door is hinged the same way, a massive piano hinge welded to the door and door frame with a rod going thru it.

Dreamscape · December 22, 2009, 08:51:43 PM

Can you guys post any pictures?

Our door is not made very well (PO built) but we don't have any problems you guys are having.

Is the door stock height? The bottom of the door should have a slight curve/bow in it, at least mine does anyway because of the way the floor frame is constructed.

Our door has a stainless steel piano hinge that has worked very well, with one Bargman lock.

Paul

Tom Y · December 23, 2009, 05:41:30 AM

I bought a 1 piece for my MCI and it was warped. A 12 pound sledge and blocks of wood works, but it took some time. Tom Y

Busted Knuckle · December 23, 2009, 05:48:30 AM

Cody has more than a door warped! I can't speak so positively for Tom, though I suspect it could be true too as he is a nut too!

BK

bevans6 · December 23, 2009, 05:51:21 AM

I once did some car restoration work alongside an old school British car body man. He did part of his apprenticeship at a Rolls Royce dealership, so was well versed in making things fit that weren't particularly inclined to do so. I got told to "just 'it it, don't bloody pat it" a lot...

What was cool was watching him make dents go away. I'd hammer and dollying for a few hours, he'd come over, two little dots of heat from the torch and it would pop flat.

anyway, you fix warped doors by using brute force, applied cunningly and slowly. think blocks of wood, straps and hydraulic jacks. Bend it till it fits. It presumably fit once, it can again.

Brian

Busted Knuckle · December 23, 2009, 05:54:04 AM

In Cody's case nothing will ever fit again...................

OH sorry I fergot we were talking about the door not Cody!

BK

zubzub · December 23, 2009, 05:54:11 AM

In old houses when a door is warped I use blocks and clamps to bend it the other way, sometimes has to sit for a few days to set as they are wood doors. In your case I can't help thinking the same will work warp it the other way advantage is as it's steel will not need to set. I would do this when the door is warm though to make it a little easier on everyone (door and you) and don't twist the glassed area. Also judicious use of a big hammer and drift hitting the hinge on a steel door and frame can help line things up.

Tenor · December 23, 2009, 05:58:12 AM

This is a little crude, but it can work. First, establish where the bend begins on the trailing edge of the door. Then you place a couple of wood blocks between the door edge and the body, bracing it open. The bottom block should be just above where the bend begins and the rest go up from there. Then, shove on the bottom edge of the door, or put something over the aluminum skin and try to slip a ratchet strap around it, perhaps hooking onto a front wheel and the bumper. What ever works to warp the door back into shape. I had to do this even after adjusting my hinges on my MCI. Good luck!

Glenn

luvrbus · December 23, 2009, 06:13:46 AM

Tom, I assume your 15 has a factory door being you have the air step also can you tell us which door is installed on yours.
Eagle had 2 sedan doors one with windows at the bottom the other without.
I will try and help most of the time it is the top that moves and leaks the bottom gives very few problems only when the radius is off proably a weld has broken on one of the corners,bad seal or the siding is to high on the bottom of the door.
I am not good at posting drawings but maybe I could get Van to post a factory drawing of the door for you on the Eagles board then you could see how the door is made.

good luck

edroelle · December 23, 2009, 07:28:00 AM

Tom,

Getting a door to fit a opening can be difficult. With a lot of brainstorming and help at Jacks, you can correct this.

You probably need to start by removing all the inside trim to see what you have for structure, reinforcements, gussets, etc. Cutting some of the structure, bending, and rewelding, may be in order.

IF there were no hinges, does the door fit well?

If the door does fit well, can you cut and move the hinge slightly. Weld, let cool, weld some more. Avoid distorting with welding heat.

If the door does not fit well. A couple of options. You can try to spring the door back- but if the door has much structure, this probably will not work. Also, you risk going too far.

Second easiest - Get a heavy square tube, and locate where you want to bend. Use C-clamps, 2X4s, to hold/bend. Trial and error.

Third approach - hardest. Set up blocks, and hydraulic jacks under something heavy - a truck, tractor/loader, bus. Trial and error again. You could build a model of the 4 edges of the body, but it would probably be easier, with all the help, to use the bus itself to test fit the door through trial and error.

Sorry I can't be there. This sounds like a fun exercise!!

Ed Roelle

Van · December 23, 2009, 07:41:10 AM

Hi Tom, as was mentioned, a weld(probably a cold one) broke loose, either because of a tweek in the tubing.
The hardest thing you will have to do is strip off the siding and the interior panel,verify where the tweek is and the cause, maybe a broke weld. I would leave the door in place, being that your hinge is welded on. with the door skins removed,it should be a snap to locate and remedy the problem.
Now comes the easy part ,heat, bend and repeat if needed until the frame is in shape. Do how ever be careful to block open the door so as not to tweek the upper frame and possibly crack the glass while bending.
I wish I had this problem as I still have the double doors, and hate them with a passion,and will be looking to remedy that as soon as I am over this mechanical hurdle with our 15. I feel for ya, and wish I could help,but stuck here in tourist land.
I am currently designing a 3 point multi lock for the 1 piece door that will secure the door at the 3 critical latching points, top, bottom and the side jam, making for a tight seal, and will share it with you guys once completed. Good luck

Clifford,I don't think I have that photo, but will look again. Hope you and the Mrs get over the flu quickly.

Van