MC8 How many grease fittings? What to do when they don't take grease

[Melbo]

Bob and BK what is rtfm??

Read The FINE Manual  or something like that???

Thanks for the tip

Melbo

P.S. I did get the fitting to take some grease but it was a bear

[JohnEd]

Robert,

Please explain the "one you hit with a hammer"?  I think that is the one that translates to thousands of PSI and will push grease through a brick.   More info....please.

John

[luvrbus]

JohnEd, that is a rejuvenator go to www.dmstools.com they have several brands there you can read about the tool and yes they even have pictures.
Thought I would save you the trouble of photos Robert. 



good luck

[BG6]

Clifford

Good Idea look in the manual

I just did and it appears that I have gotten all the ones that are noted there

You need to do two things.

First, using the chart, find and lube every fitting on the coach, not just the ones listed for PM.  After a few million miles, some of the "lifetime lubed" points are probably not lubed anymore.

Second, take a GOOD look under and around the coach -- there may be fittings not mentioned in the chart, especially if you have optional equipment or if they swapped parts between coaches when it was in service.  Lube them and add them to the chart.

The best thing to do with hardened fittings is to replace them.  If you don't want to spend the money, then take them out and soak them in solvent overnight, dry them, then finish the cleaning job by squirting some grease through them before reinstallation.

If removing them is not an option, take a small piece of wire to force the ball down, and squirt solvent in there, while you work the ball back and forth for a few minutes.  Eventually you can hook onto the Zerk and feel the dam burst when you pump the grease gun. 

The tiny amount of solvent which will be in there can be ignored.  One trick used by military and antique vehicle collector / restorer shops is to have a special grease gun set up just for shooting solvent into stuck Zerks.  You wouldn't even bother trying to grease the first time, you just pump solvent in.  A day or so later, chase the remaining solvent out with new grease -- even the old grease that was still in there will have been softened enough to shove out of the way.  NOTE:  DO THIS JOB OUTSIDE ON A BIG DRIP PAN, and THE SMOKING LAMP IS OUT.  When working with that much solvent, you're flirting with the opportunity to get on the Five O'Clock Follies, either from the fumes or from fire.

[busnut104]

What ever you do, do not heat it up with the fitting in. I know a guy that did this and was just missed by the ball in the fitting. Just like a bullet.

[Busted Knuckle]

What ever you do, do not heat it up with the fitting in. I know a guy that did this and was just missed by the ball in the fitting. Just like a bullet.

OK, OK, I've been out on the road hauling the Special Olympians to Joplin again. And only spent a few moments online at the hotel and now look what has evolved! LOL!

OK I did not make my point clear!

I ALWAYS TRY OTHER METHODS BEFORE HEATING! (especially changing the zerk, since I have like 2 zillion of them in several little kits!)

Also I never heat the zerk itself! And then when I do heat the arear around it I am very careful not to heat the zerk or melt anything else in the process!

OK is that clear as mud?
  BK 

[luvrbus]

WOW, BK that must have been a rough trip LOL 



good luck

[busnut104]

touchy touchy But BK my post was not aimed at you but just to try to inform some one else that may try this for getting hurt.

[Busted Knuckle]

WOW, BK that must have been a rough trip LOL 
good luck

If you only knew! Oh wait if you read my long winded up coming post you will know! LOL!

touchy touchy But BK my post was not aimed at you but just to try to inform some one else that may try this for getting hurt.

BN104 not touchy, just wanting to make it clear as mud that I use the torch only as a last resort. (well sorta, I never did the solvent thingy. But may try it in the future! )
And that when using heat that it is not appied directly to the zerk itself. (If it is applied directly to the zerk itself, you'll be changing the zerk again. And no need to ask how I learned that either !)
  BK