propane distribution ideas?

[Kevin Warnock]

I will have five propane appliances. How should I get the propane to them? Should I do a home run to each one with a shutoff valve near the tank, like PEX water pipe is used? If so, are there propane manifolds similar to the PEX manifolds?

Or, should I run a main propane line down the bus, and takeoff from that pipe at the locations where there is an appliance, and put a shutoff at the appliance? I am guessing this is the way to do it, but I thought I should ask. I was thinking of using 1/2" black gas pipe like that used in a house. Is that the best idea?

Thanks

[gumpy]

It's probably going to depend on the location of your appliances in relation to the location of the tanks, but I would bet the second option is going to be better and use less material.

I ran CSST from my tanks in the rear bay to the the middle bay where I split it with a Tee. One side goes to the range in the kitchen. The other side goes to a quick disconnect in the middle bay where I can plug in my camping stove. I also put a Tee there, and added a Coleman type connection. Each termination has a gas ball valve on it. I used black pipe to go through the floor, and soft copper to go from the shutoff to the range inside. At the tanks, I have a solenoid connected to my gas detector inside. I also have a manual shutoff at the regulator, but have actually never used that, and could probably do without it, as the tanks can act as the shutoff there.

craig

[TomC]

I have only two propane run appliances on my bus (I don't like propane-seen too many propane caused fires burn RV's to the ground).  My stove and furnace are the only two items propane powered (and will do it the same in my next conversion).  Both are next to each other and directly above the 20gal chassis mounted propane tank for the shortest run.  The best thing I installed is an electric solenoid valve to control the gas from inside.  I only turn on the gas when needed-which is for cooking and heating only.  Course if you have the refrigerator, water heater, etc running on propane you won't be able to do that.  But-I would still install the solenoid for emergency reasons.  Good Luck, TomC

[boogiethecat]

A trick taught to me when using threaded pipe for propane in a bus is:

When making a turn, use two 90 degree angles instead of one.. ie instead of say, turning "right" with one 90, use one to turn "down" and then a second one to turn "right".  This makes a junction that can twist and give in two axis instead, of one axis being stiff while the other is flexible.... keeps stress off the pipes in the case of wiggles and bends that occur in a vehicle and helps insure that breaks won't occur in the future.
I used 3/4 for my main and tapped 1/2 off of it for each appliance.. 

For the last bit between the pipe and the appliance, my suggestion is to use flexible corrugated stainless steel gas tubing.  Some of it even at home depot is certified for non-stationary applications like RV's although to my thinking certified or not it's a good choice 'cause stainless is tough and can stand vibration and wiggle and not stress-crack as might copper.

Like Tom I have a valve for each appliance, located on the hard-pipe side of the flex tube, and I keep things off that I'm not using.  Unlike Tom, mine are manual valves.  A couple of my valves have 2' long x 1/4" shaft extensions so I can get to them all from the living space without having to stand on my head...

my 2c

[Eagle]

I personally think your second idea is the correct way to run gas distribution lines.  You DO NOT want the joints of the black pipe to twist as that will cause a propane leak.  Run the black pipe as close to the appliance as you can and then put a shut off valve there and then connect your flexible line on to the appliance.

[boogiethecat]

Actually you DO want them to be able to twist if they have to.  If they can't twist, they will stress and eventually may fatigue and crack.  If you use a good quality pipe dope that doesn't harden, and the pipe is threaded in properly, a slight twist of the threads won't cause a leak.  But whatever... do it your way! This is simply "my" way...

Cheers
Boogie

[gus]

I use four 20lb bottles located in two different compartments. 30s or 40s can be used if you have the vertical space and are strong enough to carry them!

I like two sources in case there is a problem with one.

I run my heat from one and the fridge, range and hot water from the other.

I removed my large tank and went to the bottles because I got tired of trying to find a fueling station I could get to in the bus. The bottles can even be exchanged if necessary but so far I haven't done that.

[gumpy]

I use two 40 pounders. Since I only cook with them, I've only filled one of them in 4 years! If I were to do it again, I'd use 2 20's as these can be exchanged at the local hardware store, whereas the 40's have to be taken to a propane filling station to be refilled.

[centrix29]

Is it ok to put propane tanks in the engine compartment where the toilet tank was?  What about the heat?  It's the last project I have to do on my bus but have been putting it off because it worries me.

Thanks!

Pat

[JohnEd]

Pat,

I would say definitely NO on putting the propane in the engine compartment.  Also, something to consider that I have never seen mentioned:  Locate the tanks away from the exterior skin of the bus.  Put them in the center where they will be better protected in a crash.  I lost two friends to a propane explosion/fire that engulfed them in a second after the car hit them at the tank location and penetrated to and burst both tanks.  I use two 45# that I can take to have filled.  It would be nice if I could fill them from the tank without removing them but it isn't much of a hassle.

Well I guess it had to happen someday.  I find my self disagreeing with Boogie for the first time.  Chalk it up to global warming.  DO NOT install and "t"s anywhere.  By using a T you will increase the number of fittings and fitting we want to minimize as they are a failure point in a seriously dangerous system.  NEVER NEVER use feral connectors.....NEVER. Each feral has two connection points and a T has 6 each pressure seals....count them.  Don't use solder connectors either.  Run a Black Iron gas pipe down the center of the coach and install a T at the access to each appliance.  Use only "DOUBLE CRIMP" with a compression fitting on each end of a dedicated 3/8 line to each appliance.  2 connections per.  If your appliances are real close you might try running a dedicated line from one manifold.  DO NOT install ant sort of shut off valve for anything as that will add two connections for each valve.  You gotta shut down a line?  Install a terminating plug in the end of the line so the appliance is out of the loop or put a cap on the Black pipe T fitting.  You can put as many T's or fittings in that black pipe as you care to as long as you use a good grade of pipe dope and reef down on the fittings to tighten them.

Now all that is what you shoot for.  You may elect to add all kinds of stuff to your personalized design and God bless you pilgrim.  Incorporate an electric shut off valve at the tank that is controlled by a manual switch AND THE PROPANE DETECTOR next to your bed.  The CO detector should also shut down the propane and so also should the fire detection system.  RV Safety Man, Jim, can design and equip you for this adventure and he will do it as thoroughly as you wish or your wallet can stand.  Involve him for sure as he is highly knowledgeable and a good guy.

Well, this got out of control but my inspiration is that FIRE destroys 90+% of all motor homes....I once read.  They attributed most of it to electrical started fires, though.

Be well and happy and keep us posted,

John

[boogiethecat]

Wow john, cool! WE disagree!!!! Wheeee! I knew it had to happen!!!

I learned that "trick" from a 2 week intensive school given by Impco Carburetor back in the 80's when you could go there, spend half a grand and two "8-5" weeks and come out the other side certified as a propane engine conversion expert.  I took the course simply out of curiosity and so I could gain the piece of paper thus be able to buy propane parts direct from manufacturers.  I learned a LOT!!

Besides them teaching us about the double-jointed turns, they also spent some amount of time, including a very cool video, over a DOT regulation that says all permanently mounted propane tanks in a vehicle must have their pressure relief valve hard-piped with at least 3/4" pipe to the upper rear of the vehicle, aiming up.   This is so if the valve opens for any reason, it won't cause a puddle of propane under the vehicle waiting to blow it up, and if it happens on the road and somehow gets ignited, it won't toast the car behind you!  You then silicone a cork into the outlet to keep rain and bugs out, and the cork pops if there's a problem.

The video showed some poor dude who had done this properly; his tank had vented and stuck open, the vent system caught on fire, and he was driving down the freeway~safely~, escorted by CHP's with this gigantic fire-plume billowing out (and up) the back until his tank got refrigerated at which point he was mostly finished with the ordeal and safe.
IT was QUITE impressive.  Also drove home the idea that a vent system is something all of us should do if we have permanent tanks!!!

Ok, gonna go work on my generator today
Cheers
Gary

[prevost82]

There in Canada double jointed turn are the standard when using black pipe. I went a different route and used 1/2" copper pipe and push it through a rubber garden hose for protection. All "T's" are silver soldered with 3/8" reducer and flex line to appl.

I've had 2 propane tanks (40 lbs) in my engine compartment for 5 yrs.

[bottomacher]

Is it legal to solder a gas line?

[cody]

Up here both Hilltop RV and Ferrellgas say to use flare fittings on copper tubing, I've used 3/8's inch copper tubing and flare fittings since 1976 in all my RV's with no problems at all, never a leak, none at all and I go over them with a soap bottle regularily, fire is one of my greatest fears but have never even seen a bubble after hitting a fitting with the soap, in my daughters house I had semco gas come in a replace the natural gas lines (they were old and looked bad), they replaced all the natural gas lines with a yellow colored Pex, they said that's all they use now for natural gas, not sure if it's the same for LP tho.

[Slow Rider]

About 3.4's of the way down the page is some information about using poly pipe for propane ( liquefied petroleum gas ).

http://www.polypipeinc.com/gasdist.asp