Luber-Finer oil filtration: Do you have one? Source for filters?

[Garymci5]

Hi all,

I'm doing a LOF on my '67 MCI-5. There is a large canister mounted in the right rear corner, turns out it's a Luber-Finer filtration unit. Looks to be an OEM installation. Luckily there is an extra filter for it, I assume, due to it's massive size, about 8"x18". This corresponds to the approximate canister size.

However while searching the Luber-Finer website, cannot find any information for MCI. It's unlikely they make cartridge filters anymore, as everything now is the spin-on type. With the huge size of this filter it's unlikely the bus will need another oil change for the next 5 or more years. It doesn't get driven much and I use special oil and plan to do oil analysis as the rig is new to me.

The question is: Does anyone know where to buy the replacement oil filters?

Many Thanks,
Gary

[belfert]

Make sure that special oil you are using is a straight 40 weight for Detroit Diesel two strokes.  It shouls be rated CF-2.  No multiweight oils like 15W40.

My personal opinion is that oil should be charged at least yearly regardless of filtration, oil type, or mileage.  Condensation and such can build up in a engine that isn't run on a regular basis and can contaminate the oil.

[luvrbus]

Gary, Napa can order the filter for you they were not OEM equipment it was a add on but with the advance of new spin on filters they have pretty much gone away      good luck   

[Garymci5]

Make sure that special oil you are using is a straight 40 weight for Detroit Diesel two strokes.  It shouls be rated CF-2.  No multiweight oils like 15W40.

My personal opinion is that oil should be charged at least yearly regardless of filtration, oil type, or mileage.  Condensation and such can build up in a engine that isn't run on a regular basis and can contaminate the oil.

Thanks for the input. The oil that will be used is CF-2 rated, but IS a multiweight 15-40 and have used it in my other Detroit's. With the huge advances in oil technology in the last 20 years, there just can't be any good justification for potentially wasting 7 or 8 gallons of oil every year-- that is unless it's specs aren't very good: a low TBN, doesn't pass oil analysis, an engine in poor condition, or it's driven a lot, for example.

I use a premium oil so that there isn't the nagging feeling that it must be changed more often.

Thanks again and happy LOF'ing (umm, that's Lube Oil Filter)

[DaveG]

That big housing probably houses a 750 Luberfiner filter, a by-pass filter. We changed them each time a service was performed, but probably did not need to be. Luberfiner sold these to all the big truck builders back in the day.

[niles500]

" IS a multiweight 15-40 "

RUT-RO

[NJT 5573]

Gary,

I'm still a big fan of Luberfiners.

Most anyone who carrys your oil filter will have them on the shelf. I'd have to look it up, but they hold about 2.5 gallons of oil.

I still hot rod my truck engines, (Thanks, Pittsburgh Diesel), and the extra oil really helps the oil temps when you go over the top of the mountain. Any extra life you can get is a good thing. Besides that they also help save spin on filters and they are available down to 2 or 3 microns on the shelf at Williams Oil Filter and that's pretty good. (When a spin on plugs and they do, they bypass and you no longer have any filtration).

An outfit called Harvard filter also sells an element that will get you to 1 micron if I remember right.

I use them with Rotella full synthetic that sells for $18 or $20 a gallon at Walmart and can go 2 + years on oil changes running everyday with oil analysis. Not to many years ago we were rebuilding engines every 3 years so that saves alot of maintence and money.

If my bus ran any miles I would find a way to add one and if it had one' I would not part with it.

[Garymci5]

NJT, that's the best information yet. Thanks very much.

Regarding capacity, it seem the LuberFiner case holds about 1.5 gallons or so-- that's how much has drained/dripped out. However this doesn't factor in what's absorbed into the filter element. I'll use your recommendation.

My bus also has the oil resevoir "option (per service manual)" that holds about 2 or 3 gallons. It's nifty with a sight tube and control valve, to "topp'er" off as needed.

Speaking of spendy oil, looks like I need to order at least one more 2.5 gallon jug of Amsoil Diesel, if not two, in order to fill everything up. Normal retail is about $30-32 a gallon. As a dealer I get it for wholesale and that helps.

Can't recall if Rotella syn. is CF-2 rated for Detroit's....do you perhaps have a 4 stroke turbo in your bus?

My hopes are this LOF will last at least 5 years due to our low annual mileage. Oil analysis will be done. The main reason for using some of the most expensive oil around is for the high TBN, which combats crankcase acids. Excessive acids attack seals and can even attack bearings. I don't want to waste oil every year to keep it "fresh". Not exactly "environmentaly friendly", in today's Green world. One could almost argue that full synthetic oil is somewhat "organic" compared to fossil oils. Aside from that the extra protection, in the many aspects, is peace of mind. I'd rather spend a few hundred on oil than many thousands on repairs that I can't afford.

In my humble opinion, after 10+ years of using Amsoil, and over 20yrs of using various synthetics, feel that they have the best quality products available. The best part is it's more cost effective -- cheaper--if you keep equipment a longer period of time. There is typically an increase in MPG of 1-3% in heavy trucks (documented) and more in lighter vehicles.  I even kept a knocking rod car engine alive longer by using Amsoil Diesel 15-40 about 6 years ago. Whenever it got hot using normal oil, and other synthetics, the rod would knock pretty hard, but was almost eliminated with Amsoil even at the hottest temps. Talk about film strength! (and it started up just great when it was cold too). In the cause of looking out for other people's best interests all this was mentioned.

If anyone is interested you can also buy it for wholesale through me (no extra shipping costs). Touch base if this perks anyones curiosity.

At least for myself I need to get at least another 2.5G jug of Amsoil Diesel CF-2 rated 15-40 oil (they make a straight weight too), some multipurpose Grease (GC and LB rated) for the hoard of zerk fittings, an oil sample kit, some Diesel fuel additives, a cabin filter and oil filter for my truck, maybe a T-shirt, too.

Oh-- my friend from Hawaii that owns a land scaping company is going to buy more Amsoil because the "tester" I convinced him to try a couple years ago solved his problem (gear reduction boxes on his work truck needed OH every few months and would run VERY hot). He plans to upgrade all their vehicles and equipment. Shipping to Hawaii is NOT cheap, but he won't use anything else now!

Okay, thanks for listening and I apologize about my rant 



Cheers,
Gary

[Garymci5]

That big housing probably houses a 750 Luberfiner filter, a by-pass filter. We changed them each time a service was performed, but probably did not need to be. Luberfiner sold these to all the big truck builders back in the day.

You were on the money, thanks. I rotated the canister and found imprinted model '750'. The filter # is LF750B by Fleetguard. Luckily there was another new filter in the cargo bay and installed it. With the near extreme expense of the oil change at about $7 a quart, all new filters are mandatory.

[TomC]

Gary- it has been proven over and over that 15W-40 is NOT the oil for 2 stroke engines.  PLEASE do your self a favor and use SAE40 CF-2 rated oil in your engine.  Besides-if your engine goes south, is AMSOIL going to pay for a new one-don't think so.  Good Luck, TomC

[DaveG]

Great Gary! Don't forget the o-ring (sometimes a quad or square ring) on the cover/lid...change it too. After start-up, bleed off air from the bolt/plug looking thing on the cover/lid.

[MCI-RICK]

Anyone know something about 50wt oil.  I read of its existence in a DD link but I've never seen it anywhere.  I've read a bit about the Amsoil but I'm leery since all the DD links advise against multi-viscosity oil.

I've heard there are many posts on this subject with ever conflicting results.

I'm inclined to use the 40wt plus Lucas oil.  I used the Lucas for years in gas engines and it was worth the investment.  I know diesels are different, particularly the 2 stroke.

NJT,

I used that oil at Walmart for the power strokes I had.  It's a real bargain.  I never had a problem.  Although, that was a different animal.  Not sure if I want to use it in my 2 stroke.

Gary,

I didn't know Amsoil had 40wt.  Whats that go for?

I'll be changing my oil & filters soon and I'd like to get more input on what's out there and who's using what and why.

Rick

[Garymci5]

Great Gary! Don't forget the o-ring (sometimes a quad or square ring) on the cover/lid...change it too. After start-up, bleed off air from the bolt/plug looking thing on the cover/lid.

Excellent advice, DaveG!

I noticed the oil pressure gauge jumping around a bit and wasn't sure if there were air pockets or the gauge was doing some exercises after sitting for 7 months. Naturally, when the filter was replaced I then filled the canister with oil, but only to where the cap fits on-- leaving a sizeable air pocket that would probably require several quarts to fill. If the oil pressure isn't steady at next start up, will check the LuberFiner. However, me thinks the air pockets have been purged...not thinking it's a "good idea" to unscrew the bolt when the engine is running. Would rather add oil thru the bolt hole when said engine is not spinning.

Unfortunately there wasn't an extra canister gasket/o-ring handy and reused the old one, which seemed fine (still somewhat soft and pliable). Ran the engine tonight for awhile and no leaks or drips- anywhere. Does synthetic oil seal up leaks too??     (umm that was a gest/joke, okay?! haha)

Thanks again Dave for helping out a LuberFiner Newbie!

[Garymci5]

Gary- it has been proven over and over that 15W-40 is NOT the oil for 2 stroke engines.  PLEASE do your self a favor and use SAE40 CF-2 rated oil in your engine.  Besides-if your engine goes south, is AMSOIL going to pay for a new one-don't think so.  Good Luck, TomC

Tom,

While the fact that someone is looking out for the "other guy" is greatly appreciated, in this case it's somewhat misplaced. PLEASE see the above response to another comment that is nearly identical to yours. Please show how it's " it has been proven over and over that 15W-40 is NOT the oil for 2 stroke engines.". Where did you see/find that information?


Regarding the straight weight oil, my MCI manual states 30 weight. However my Eagle, also with a 8v71N stated 40 weight. But then for comparison my last Audi specified among other visco's up to a 60 weight oil, for a 2004 model.

Not that I listened....    The guy (that's me), must just be "asking for it" or just plain dense as multi-weight oil, eh?

It's just too, too late for me to really delve into the "how's" and "why's", aside to say that I wouldn't under any circumstance compromise anything I own by not providing the correct and proper maintenance, whether it's a $55,000 Audi or $250 Honda lawn mower makes no diff. BTW, both use Amsoil Diesel 15-40.

Ex, Formual One engineer, one night after work looked over all the hard data (ASTM specs mostly) between Redline and Amsoil, and what was available from Mobil1, and decided there wasn't anything better than Amsoil (being both CF and CF-2 rated, plus all the newer API ratings), wether for diesel or gas engines. This is a guy who rebuilds period race cars, often exotics, where a basic engine "freshening" is $80,000 and goes up from there (example cited from a Porsche 917; flat 12 with 1,000 hp). I was told it was $135,000 for a "full" rebuild. Yep, that's a pretty penny alright.  Do you think they don't use anything except the finest products on earth?

For those that think dino oil holds a candle to syn oil and it's simply a apples to apples comparison of viscosity, sheer strength, film strength, pumpability, cold and hot viscosity, NOAK Volatility testing and the other true properties of oil, then there is nothing I can say, aside from spend a little time (if it means THAT much to someone) to research yourself. I did, and started doing so 20 years ago (I am still learning).

All the years I've been on forums, it's always the same oil discussion, whether it's the VW, BMW, Audi, Alfa Romeo, Toyota, Isuzu or Honda guys, GMC buses, Eagle buses, dare I now say MCI buses (?) (I've owned all these vehicles and more) the big circle of life ties us all together. The do's and dont's of for or against something remain the same-- to each their own, as it were.

That's QUITE the assumption.......The answer to the last question is yes. You can see their published warranty coverage on-line.

If it worked well for my Eagle 05 it'll do the same for the MCI.

Only some of this was specific to your comments, Tom. Some was generalizing for anyone reading the post-- no intention of per se attacking you, alrighty?

Oh, my wee-little Challenger ate up ELEVEN GALLONS of engine oil (I expected 7 or 8, like a NORMAL 8V71N). What a HOG  . Don't ask how much it cost...OKAY, it was.... no, nevermind you'll just make even more fun of me! 

Over and out for now.