drill bits

[bergdoll]

got my air problem taken care of & am reframing/skinning & i must have got the worst drill bits on the planet? HOME DEPOT SUCKS! the de walt center points seem to work for a while, but i can't sharpen them. the blue mol's really suck, i had 1 snap in half on the 2nd hole! & the harbor freight won't even drill a hole from the start, once it hits the mild steel!
i've got about 2,000 holes to drill for my 1/4" rivets & i need some good drill bits...i do understand that i need quite a few & i have the "drill doctor" bit sharpener (118 degree) that seems to put a point on them but it does not seem to last. i am not drilling at that high of speed. any info/help/suggestions out there? please only reply if you know about this.
                                                                       thanks

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

bergdoll,

First, Buy your drill bits from McMaster and Carr, go online and do a search, you'll find them. you will have your bits the next day!!!

Second, When drilling hard metals, try and stop every 3 seconds and you will see how much faster you can drill the hole.

I can personally tell you I have drilled 270 holes, through 22 ga. stainless, with the same 3/16" bit. [without sharpening]

Yes, on my bus!!

Hope this Helps
Nick-

[TomC]

Bosch

[Timkar]

If drilling SS go slowly and use lubricant..bits will last a lot longer...from experience

[Barn Owl]

Grainger is also a good source. I use cobalt bits at work to drill through hardened piano hinges. I think you would get good service from them. Do not overheat the bit! Keeping it cool by using a slower speed or a lubricant will make them last a long time.

[mikeH8H-649]

bergdoll   I have drilled 2800+1/4 holes in my bus and riveted I used everything from the $2.50 blu mold to the $7.00 cobalts and found as long as I drilled slow and steady pressure it went fine,I did end up buying a larger quanity from mcmaster carr but they did not do any better or worse,I burnt up a lot of bits before I got used to it and then no problem,on another note the 1/4 air rivet gun from harbor freight for under $100 has installed 2800+ shave head and mono bolt rivets with no problem just make sure to add a few drops of air tool oil every few hundred rivets or so,hope this helps,fyi FSI rivets that advertise in bus conv mag are about half the price of any one else I found and I only found that after my first 2000 rivets saved almost $280 on my last 1000 rivets hope this helps Mike

[gumpy]

I put over 2500 rivets into my bus. I hand sharpened my bits, and learned to put a split point on with a 6" bench grinder. I've since purchased a drill doctor that has selectable angle (118* and I think 123*) and will do split points. It's way better than my hand sharpening. The only thing I don't like about it is trying to sharpen short bits (e.g. broken bits).

If your drill doctor will do split points, use it.

I used mostly Vermont American bits from Menard's. I think I had something from Home Depot, also, but can't recall the brand.
Standard bits. Not Cobalt or TIN. Just good quality high speed steel bits. Use even pressure (not heavy pressure) and relax every 3 seconds or so to break and clear chips.

[JackConrad]

Cobalt bits are harder, but break much easier.  I use the Titanium-Nitrile. I foiund the key to drilling in SS is to use a very slow drill speed and stop often. If you use a fast drill speed for even a few seconds, the drill bit gets very hot and the SS hardens making it even more difficult to drill after you throw away the drill bit you just ruined. I use firm, not hard, pressure on my cordless drill (has a slower speed than my corded drills). I squeeze the trigger, then almost immediately release the trigger. when the drill stops, pull the trigger again, then almost immediately release, etc. This keeps the bit and the SS from getting hot. I also use a cutting/tapping oil.  YMMV  Hope this helps, Jack

[DrivingMissLazy]

I would highly recommend you go to a local supplier and purchase a can of RapidTap. Although the name indicates it is for tapping, I found that it significantly speeds up drilling holes also. I used to buy it in one gallon cans because we did so much drilling and tapping. Almost eliminated breaking of drills and taps and these items lasted much longer.

One advantage of this product is that it evaporates rapidly and leaves no oily film. Although most of our drilling was in the 10/32 screw size, up to 1/4 inch, it also worked like magic while drilling 3/4 inch and larger holes in steel beams.

Unfortunately I do not own any stock in the company, but I can guarantee that you will be happy with it.

Richard

[H3Jim]

I too, like Jack Conrad, found the start and stop method of drilling in stainless works very well.  way faster tahn drilling a constant slow speed.  way faster than drilling at a ligher rpm as Jack described.  I used this method for 4" holes and they cut qucikly.  I don't want to say how many drills and hole saws I went through before I discovered this method.

[jjrbus]

Home Depot/Lowes/Harbor frieght bits are for drilling soft wood. Mcmaster Carr, Grangers, are good choices for buying bits. Tin are good for general metal drilling, Cobalt are best for stainless steel.  As mentioned slow or start and stop is best. If you try to drill at a high speed you are grinding away the metal and not cutting it, getting the drill bit too hot and burning it. The metal should be coming out in a "string" not little tiny chips. A lubricant is a must, there are many out there, Drill Chill is one, there are many available, do not use WD40 it will help, but is like washing your clothes with shampoo, just not the right product.
I have never been able to sharpen a bit by hand, I bought a Drill Doctor it has paid for itself. When I was doing my roof raise, I carried 4 drill bits with me, replaced them as they dulled, and then stopped and sharpened all of them at the same time.
                                                                        Work?/Play safely Jim

[Gary LaBombard]

Bergdog,
I hope you will not mind me putting in my 2 cents here also.  I have been drilling holes for quite some time, in some cases right into welded areas and you know what a bummer that can be.  The product I use now in place of Rapidtap is "Westlube".  It is special for SS & very hard metals and I swear by it.  Order one bottle of it to try out, you will see it is $$ well spent. 

Go to www.westlandproducts.com, you can call them and order right over the phone to try out this product.  You will get many, many holes per drill if you lube the drill before the use on each hole.  Just dip the drill bit in the stuff and turn it on, you will be amazed.  If it starts to slow up drilling, dip it again.  In SS use your drill in half speed if not less,  SS is a bummer no matter what but very possible with this stuff. 

Hope this helps.

Gary

[Gary LaBombard]

Sorry, I meant to address my previous post reply to "Bergdoll" and not Bergdog!!  DAhhhhh 
Gary

[DrivingMissLazy]

Gary, you have the capability of going in and modifying your message very easily. I typically have to go back a couple of times to try and correct grammatical errors or spelling errors. Course I am just a dumb redneck hillbilly so I make lots of them. LOL
Richard

Sorry, I meant to address my previous post reply to "Bergdoll" and not Bergdog!!  DAhhhhh 
Gary

[Clarke Echols]

Use cobalt split-point bits.  I got mine from W.W. Grainger.  Use a cutting oil that is compatible with the material you're drilling.  I got a half-gallon of metal-cutting oil from a local screw-machine company.  You could also contact a machine shop in your area.

Keep the bits COOL!  I used a small container for the oil and kept it close to the ladder (a hanger of some sort is helpful).  Dip the tip of the bit into the oil and  drill.  When smokes starts to curl out of the hole, stop, dip again and continue.  I got a dozen 3/16" bits and drilled many many hundreds of holes before taking them to a bit sharpening service to have them resharpened.

Clarke