Can one really torque a lugnut with hand tools?

[belfert]

I see Harbor Freight carries a hand torque wrench that goes to 600 lbs.  Is it really possible to tighten a lugnut by hand?

I put a hitch on my car last week.  It was just six bolts into nuts in the frame so it was relatively easy.  The bolts had to be tightened to 90 ft lbs so I used my torque wrench.  I was really wore out by the time I had all six bolts to 90 lbs!  (Granted I was working on my back.)  I couldn't imagine 500 ft lbs by hand after that.

[Tenor]

3/4 inch drive breaker bar with about 8feet of pipe.  I've done that WAY too many times.  BTW - I'm 5'0 and 150lbs!  You gotta crank on em' until they squeal!

Glenn

[junkman42]

I bought a 10:1 torque multiplier on ebay made by proto.  50 lbs in 500 out and it is rated to 2000 ftlbs.  I rest the reaction bar on a jack stand and use a beam torque wrench.  Makes it easy and no long cheater bars and it does give You the right torque.  Easy on a old person.  LOL John

[jackhartjr]

I got a 3 to 1...or is it 1 to 3? torque multiplier off ebay.  To torque to the 450 to 475 pounds I need to get the stud pilot wheels tight I simply have to use 150 pounds on the torque wrench.
Jack
PS, helps to get them off too!

[mikelutestanski]

Hello:
  I have the torque wrench from harbor freight  bougth 10 years ago.   48 incher.  its home is in the bus. I use it to torque the wheels all the time.  I need help sometimes if I need to do 6 back wheels.. I Take them up in three stages evenly using the stud pattern in the book.
   The initial tightening is very important because thats where you center the wheel on the hub and  you want it to be centered and not offset . I usually do that with a rattle gun or a 3/4 inch ratchet  probably around 150 pounds or so.  Then   275; 375;500  for the three sequences.   I have watched bus mechanics zip around the wheels once with a 3/4 rattle gun and be finished but I wont ride on that bus..
   I usually have someone hold the end of the wrench on the deep wheels because you need an extension or you can use a jackstand; but that takes alot more time to reposition the stand. 
   If also have the 12X reducer unit but I usually use that for loosening only.  It works real well for that.  THere has been testing done and some people argue that the 12X unit does not  set the torque properly. 
    I set my wrench for 500 lbs and I believe it is at least 450 to 475 so the wheels stay on.
   Other parts of that tool kit are oak boards to drive the bus up on 4 pc.  air powered 12 ton jacks (2) and a 3/4 socket set. An extra 1.5 inch deep socket and the 1" sq socket for the square nut heads  all heavy duty. I have other tools but that is the tire assembly along with the spare in the front compartment.
    Some dont carry the additional spare but I do.  Strictly a matter of choice.
     One other detail  mounted tires are very heavy. try to keep them upright if possible because if they fall you dont want to be in the way. When I get ready to get the wheel onto the hub I use a wrecking bar under the tire to lift it and jockey it into position and onto the hub.  It takes a bit of work and some practice so be careful.     And   make sure you know where the air valves are. They should be where you can get at them. I usually put them on opposite sides (inner and outer)  however that is probably my preference.  What you dont want is to have a 2 hole wheel and put the air where you cant get at it..  Check it before you start jockeying the wheel in place.   On a car you might spin the wheel on the hub to get it into position.   You wont do that easily on the bus
     Good luck with your  tires.
         The guy that showed me worked for the hound place  and made it all look so simple but he had many years of practice and had all the moves down .  I dont profess to have the right way but my way works for me.  You need to find or develop a procedure for you.
   Regards and happy bussin
    Mike

[lostagain]

I put my body weight (170lbs) on the end of a 3 foot bar. That's 510lbs. I made a piece of 3/4" plywood with multiple holes in it to support the socket extention for the drive wheels so it doesn't slip off the nut. That's a lot better than the tire shop overtorquing the nuts with a 1" impact gun!"

JC

[PP]

I use the 12:1 mulitiplier to remove them and then to put them back on. But the last thing I do before calling the job finished is to put a 5 foot cheater bar on my breaker bar and throw my weight on it. This last step is just for insurance, since I like to think I torqued them to the right poundage with the multiplier.
This is just my way and so far, it works Will
Since I have Alloys all around, I use a special plastic disk that I slip over the hub and lugnuts to protect the rim from flying breaker bars and sockets. So far so good.

[gus]

I weigh 200lb, I stand on a pipe so the total length is 2' and give one little jump after it stops moving just for insurance.

[Diesel_Gypsy]

I use the 12:1 mulitiplier to remove them and then to put them back on. But the last thing I do before calling the job finished is to put a 5 foot cheater bar on my breaker bar and throw my weight on it. This last step is just for insurance, since I like to think I torqued them to the right poundage with the multiplier.
This is just my way and so far, it works Will
Since I have Alloys all around, I use a special plastic disk that I slip over the hub and lugnuts to protect the rim from flying breaker bars and sockets. So far so good.

PP

I'm wondering what you are calling a 12:1 multiplier? Is this the gear drive wrench which turns the outside nut against the inside nut? (I'm assuming that you have double nut wheels and not the single nut Pilot wheels) If so, you should never use it to tighten the outside nuts. It will turn the inside nuts back out until they touch the outside wheel. The outer nuts will torque up but the wheels will not be tight on the inner studs. After a few miles (or maybe a few hundred) the studs will wear out in the hub. This is bad, and expensive! The nuts may still be tight on the outside wheel as it rolls accross the field! Gear type wrenches should only be used to loosten the lugnuts. FWIW

Later. . .
Jim

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Jim, i don't know if this is what Will has, but it is what i have and i love it.   Go to www.times12.com  to see it. Not Cheap but worth every penny.

[jackhartjr]

I have said this before...I worked for a company in the 80's and 90's that had some wheel failures.  We started torquing EVERY wheel.  The failures stopped.  We NEVER had another wheel failure.  (What broke the camels back is the day my driver called me and said he was missing a tanden set of wheels...)
The guy that does my tires on cars here in Hickory torques EVERY wheel.  He said he has NEVER had an issue with wheels.
Jack

[Diesel_Gypsy]

Ed

This is not the same tool that I am familiar with.

I'll post a picture of my gear wrench when I get back home tomorrow.

Later. . .
Jim

[PP]

Jim, i don't know if this is what Will has, but it is what i have and i love it.   Go to www.times12.com  to see it. Not Cheap but worth every penny.

Yep, this is the one I have. Except, mine is gold and fits in a gold metal box. Considering what they cost, the color is appropriate, but they are well worth it!
I have another one that came with the bus, but I've never used it. It's a completely different animal and might be what you're thinking of Jim (Gypsy). For me, the X-12 works so simple for both removal and install the only other option is the cell phone LOL
Will
PS-I'll post pictures if anyone wants to see it or the other thing, but that link says it all.

[kyle4501]

Jim, is this what you have?

[PP]

Jim, is this what you have?

Kyle4501, That's what my other one looks like. Except for moving it around, I've never taken it out and tried it. Not sure I would even know how LOL, Will