how best to repair leaking power steering metal line?
 

how best to repair leaking power steering metal line?

Started by jimandsuzy, December 16, 2008, 08:49:35 PM

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jimandsuzy

I have a 78 Flyer with 6V92 and V730 that has developed a rust hole in the 3/4" metal pressure line on the power steering just ahead of the rear end - differential. The line has a metal connector near the leak on the short end but the other end seems to go most of the way to the front. I can't see a lot of the pipe because it's above the bays and fuel tank and somewhere hidden makes bends to get in line with the steering box. I need to cut the pipe at a place where it's not rusted near the leak and reconnect it. I read that the pump can put out up to 2000 psi so I don't know if that means the connection has to be some kind of screwed on fitting or if a hose clamp will work with high pressure hose. Any one had a similar repair and if so what did you do? And/or advice. Thanks, Jim
1978 40' Flyer (Canadian) 6V92T V730

Len Silva

I don't believe you will find any compression type fitting that will stand up to that kind of pressure.  The only choice I see is to cut and re thread the pipe or perhaps weld up the leak.
Maybe one of those steel/rubber compression couplings placed over the leak without cutting the pipe will give you some relief but I doubt it will work as a permanent repair.

Hand Made Gifts

Ignorance is only bliss to the ignorant.

JackConrad

If it rusted through, it might be difficult to weld  (if not enough metal thickness, you may make that little leak a bigger leak.  I would take a photo of it and go to a local hydraulics shop (one that makes hydraulic hoses) along with the pipe diameter and wall thickness.  They may have a solution for you.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

FloridaCliff

Jim,

With that kind of pressure you want a flared or threaded connection at a minimum.

You may get away with a compression for an emergency fix, but doing it right will save you some time from an unplanned stop. :P

Unfortunately you don't a good break point! (per your description)

You may need to remove the shortest length you can and have it threaded or flared to complete a repair.

Its also a 32 year old line and maybe just time to replace the whole thing.

Let us know what you end up doing....

Cliff

1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

"There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded."
Mark Twain

dickegler


Hi Jim,

Weatherhead does indeed make high pressure compression ends that could ease your repair.  Probably would have to insert a foot or two hose to have enough flexibility to wrangle everything in place.

I have used this method to repair steel line, but only up to 1/2 inch. I don't know about fitting availability for 3/4".

Another alternative might be flaring, but it's tough on 3/4 steel.  Last resort, braze threaded coupling to steel line, then use hose with threaded fittings.

Good luck!

Dick Egler
dick egler  atlanta, in  92 prevost/beaver conversion, N5333L

bigjohnkub

Jim, I work on heavy equipment hydraulics all the time. Do cut your line in an accessable place and take it to a hydraulic shop. Any equipment dealer in you town can suggest where. We use compression type fittings on 1 inch lines with 3500lbs of pressure all the time.
   big john
Big John  Tyler Tx PD 4903-188 & 4107
871 dd, 4 spd Fuller.
LOVE MY BUS!!!!
9035304497

skipn

In reading the posts some good or viable solutions

Just a quick side bar

  Do people braze pipe leaks anymore? (brass not solder)


Skip

TomC

If it is rusted there-probably other spots ready to go.  I would bypass the whole pipe situation and have new flexible hydraulic lines made. My bus was converted over to hydraulic steering where the mechanic ran new lines from the front to the engine compartment.  My bus is a transit also-which is fairly easy to run lines since all is exposed on the bottom of the bus.  Then you'll have new lines and peace of mind.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

jimandsuzy

Thanks for all of the tips. I will go to a hydraulics shop and see about replacing the whole 2 lines with flex. Since the bus spent many years in salt there may be places that I can't see that are also rusted to some degree and waiting to pop. It is nice to hear of others real world experiences for future ref. Thanks to all. The spell check is a great added feature for me. Jim
1978 40' Flyer (Canadian) 6V92T V730


jimandsuzy

I have an appointment Monday to get 2 flex hoses with fittings made to go between the pump and the steering gearbox. About $500 quoted.
1978 40' Flyer (Canadian) 6V92T V730

Charles in SC

Another option might be to cut the line at a safe spot and silver solder a fitting to the remaining steel line, then put a hydrolic flex line to replace the rusted out part. I do not know if you can get to it well enough to do this safely. Good luck!
S8M 5303 built in 1969, converted in 2000

jimandsuzy

Oh happy day. I got my 40' power steering flex lines today from a local truck parts place and the parts guy gave me some big customers discount and it came in at $260 out the door.
They don't know what my steering filter is though - nothing that they have. It doesn't have any info (pn, mfg,etc) on it. It's 4" diam, 5" tall, and both mounting holes are 1 1/16". Anyone know where I would go to look it up by dimensions? Thanks, Jim
1978 40' Flyer (Canadian) 6V92T V730