Steel Bay Door Hinges

[Lin]

I remember there was someone selling steel bay door hinges.  Does anyone remember the source.  I decided to replace the air springs on two of my bays with stronger ones since the did not dependably hold the doors up.  The new one, which is about 50% strong does a beautiful job.  However, probably at least partially because the rubber hinge is old, the closing pressure is splitting the rubber at that side and preventing the door from closing properly.  I could replace the whole hinge, but thought that just in case this air spring is strong enough to start effecting the new rubber hinge, I could put one steel one in that corner and be totally secure.

[gus]

Lin,

Try replacing the rubber hinges first, that may be the only problem. I have gas cyl on some of my doors with relative new hinges and have no problems.

It could be that your new cyl are too powerful for the job.

My main objection to the SS hinges is that a much larger slot has to be cut into the rubber hinge slots to make them fit and with the slots in place that is not a nice job.

Also there is the problem of keeping water out of the compartments.

Others have installed them and think they are great but I chose not to use them.

Once you get the hang of it replacing the rubber hinges is not too bad.

[Lin]

Gus,
     The ones that were there were not strong enough.  The two bays on the other side have two struts, one at each side of the door, and work fine.  Since it seemed to me that just increasing the pressure would work,  I purchase two heavier ones.  Maybe I should have gone with an intermediate pressure, but this one works such that when I open the bay door, the strut lifts the door gently for the last couple of inches and holds is up safely.  It feels right to me, but it might put to much stress on the rubber.  Of course, it may just seem that way because this rubber is old.  Anyway, if I had a steel hinge at that corner, I believe it would work long term.  I do not think that the brackets would be much effected.  I found a guy that makes nylon fiber re-enforced rubber hinges that he says are more than up to the job, but I would like to try the steel one. 

[RJ]

Lin -

Send an email to edannebus at aol dot com.  Ed makes the stainless steel hinge assemblys for the GMCs & Eagles.  If that address bounces, try it with out the "E" just ahead of "bus".

I've heard often that two struts balance the load on the hinges better than one. . .

Perhaps one SS hinge on each end of the bay door w/ the OEM rubber in the center??

FWIW & HTH. . .

[chris4905]

If your wondering what the stainless steel hinges look like, I have attached some pictures.

I made these about 8 years ago.  I, like you, was frustrated by the rubber hinges and decided to make these.
 
Stainless steel is very stout and you can not form these with the proper tools.  I had a friend who gave me access to his complete metal fab shop.  I bought the hinged material, cut it to the lengths I wanted, made up dies to roll the edges, and rolled the edges in a press.  I made up about 80 of them and installed them in all the door tracks.  I even have extras for later if needed.

They have worked great for the past 8 years on my GMC 4905.  My bays don't leak, no problem with the hinges "deforming" from use, I no longer worry about my doors separating and falling off.

I know Ed's hinges are very similar to mine (because we talked years ago when he decided to make his up and I gave him some of my pictures and specs).  I know many bus owners who are very pleased with Ed's steel hinges.

Hope the pictures and this explanation helps.

[zimtok]

Don't you loose the weather tight seal when you go to these types of hinges?



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[Lee Bradley]

If your wondering what the stainless steel hinges look like, I have attached some pictures.

I made these about 8 years ago.  I, like you, was frustrated by the rubber hinges and decided to make these.
 
Stainless steel is very stout and you can not form these with the proper tools.  I had a friend who gave me access to his complete metal fab shop.  I bought the hinged material, cut it to the lengths I wanted, made up dies to roll the edges, and rolled the edges in a press.  I made up about 80 of them and installed them in all the door tracks.  I even have extras for later if needed.

They have worked great for the past 8 years on my GMC 4905.  My bays don't leak, no problem with the hinges "deforming" from use, I no longer worry about my doors separating and falling off.

I know Ed's hinges are very similar to mine (because we talked years ago when he decided to make his up and I gave him some of my pictures and specs).  I know many bus owners who are very pleased with Ed's steel hinges.

Hope the pictures and this explanation helps.

If you can not form these with the proper tools, do you use improper tools? My thoughts get ahead of my fingers also. 

[Lin]

I contacted Ed and bought a couple of the hinges.  He said that he knows they fit GM's, but was not sure about MCI.  However, the measurements for the rubber I have was the same as his.  I installed another of the struts on a bay with a good rubber hinge.  I like the way it opens and holds the door, but it is over-stressing the hinge there too.  The strut I replace was 120 pound.  Since I was strictly guessing at what would be good, I replaced them with the 187 pound model.  It may be that I should have tried the 150 pounder instead.  My guess (again) is that if I can squeeze in the steel hinge just at the end where the strut is, I will be okay.  The bay doors on the other side of the bus have two struts.  One has two 80 pounders, and the other has a 120 and an 80.  Both work safely.  Anyway, since the rubber will still be in place for the rest of the door, I do not think I will lose much weather protection.

This is another example of one of my repairs or improvements causing other problems.  There is just no end to the fun!

[gus]

Lin,

As I remember from reading the SS hinge instructions, once you cut the slot larger you can place the hinge anywhere you like. My only objection to was cutting the slot - it appeared to be very difficult to do without scratching the siding. My rubber hinges work fine so I have no reason so far to change. Getting good quality rubber hinges seems to be the key.

From your description it sounds as if your struts are exactly the right strength. One couldn't ask for better door support than you describe.

I never considered using two struts because there is only one originally. The strain is only there when the door is open and the weight of the door is on the hinge and strut. When it is closed there is zero strain on the hinge, or very close to it since the cam locks carry the weight of the door. I guess if you have a door that is left open a lot it would be better to have two struts.

I agree, every time I take something apart to repair it I find a half dozen other things I should do!! That is the reason I never do a "ground up" restoration on anything, I hate to put it back together before every single thing is replaced or repaired and painted. The resuilt is I never get the job done!!

[Ed Hackenbruch]

The difference between the MCI and the GM is that on the MCI you can take off the top piece with the channel and feed the hinges into it from one end or the other. From what i have just recently seen on a 4104, you can't take this piece off, which is why you need to cut a slot into the bottom of the channel to get the hinge into it.  Using rubber between the hinges will keep water out just like before.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Another thing i found on my 5A is that i needed to take a hammer and a cold chisel to each hinge and crimp the rolled parts of the hinge a little more as it was a tight fit into my channels. Even after that it is still tight but does work.