Maintaining Radiators.

[johns4104s]

Several years ago New radiators were installed in my MCI 9. It has been driven very little since then ( maybe 8000 mile) I start the bus up about every other week,some time take it for a run, the antifreeze was changed about 18 months ago. Is there anything else I can do to keep the radiators in tip top shape?

Thanks

John

[Frank @ TX]

Hi John,
Sounds good so far , but make sure you use ONLY distilled water.
Frank

[TomC]

While not as important on 8V-71's since they have dry cylinder liners-but important on 92 series since they have wet liners-is to test the coolant for acidity.  Truck supply stores will have coolant test kits.  Good Luck, TomC

[trailblazer2]

 Tom ;
Thats some real good advise on those 92 series engines. I had to take my  MCI-9 to Detroit a year or so ago,and boy, did they drill this one in my head! They told me of some real horror stories. Its very critical to use the correct coolant,and maintain that PH!Thanks again for that post.
Bill

[quantum500]

I have been told to never ever clean them with a pressure washer. 

[JohnEd]

The fins on the bottom of my radiator were disolved and seperated from the rods.  The rods were in good shape so I am still using it and all is well.  I was told that the road water was acidic and had soil salts in it and that I was supposed to wash the fins and use a neutralizer.  Anybody have info on this?  And I have used a pressure washer many times on all my numerious vehicles to flush out the rads.  May be OK cause I didn't get right up close to the fins,,,,don't know but it seems to make sense that high pressure water could wipe out the fins at close range.

I have read posts where the Knut had a serious overheating problem.  Took the bus into a car wash and used the high pres water to clean out the rad fins.  One said he was simply shocked at the filth that came out and also that the cleaning completely solved his overheating problems.  In a pinch....alls fair I guess.

John

[JackConrad]

I think using a pressure washer depends on HOW it is used.  If used close to the fins and at a 45 degree angle to the fins, it could probably do some significant damage. If if it kept futher way and directed so that the spray goes straight through the fins, much less chance of damage. Of course, radiator condition is also a big factor.  Jack

[TomC]

Since I have misters on my radiator, I do get calcium buildup on the radiator, similar to getting salt buildup during winter driving (this is one of the many reasons MCI mounted their radiators up high).  I just spray CLR on the radiator then wash off with a garden hose.  Works well. Good Luck, TomC

[quantum500]

I think using a pressure washer depends on HOW it is used.  If used close to the fins and at a 45 degree angle to the fins, it could probably do some significant damage. If if it kept futher way and directed so that the spray goes straight through the fins, much less chance of damage. Of course, radiator condition is also a big factor.  Jack

I trust you're opinion more than most on here Jack.  Can I use a pressure washer carefully on a "good" radiator?

[buswarrior]

Detroit has a lovely two part cleaner for your cooling system.

First one chews up the goop, second one is the neutralizer.

Details on their website someplace, lost my links to hard drive failure...

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[JackConrad]

I think using a pressure washer depends on HOW it is used.  If used close to the fins and at a 45 degree angle to the fins, it could probably do some significant damage. If if it kept futher way and directed so that the spray goes straight through the fins, much less chance of damage. Of course, radiator condition is also a big factor.  Jack

I trust you're opinion more than most on here Jack.  Can I use a pressure washer carefully on a "good" radiator?

I don't know. I would think it would depend in part on how powerful the pressure washer is (ours only produced a max of 1450 PSI).  We usually rinse our radiators with a strong stream from our garden hose.  Jack

[JohnEd]

Warrior,

Must be Xmas.  I have found something in one of your posts that I take issue with....sorta more like can expand on.  TWO PART cooling sys cleaners.  A friend used to own a speed shop that catered to Ferrari, Maserati, Porshe Rolls, get the pic?  One day when I visited he was under the hood of his wife's station wagon.  He bought it used.  To my question he said "I am doing what every mothers son does after he uses that Rad cleaner... replacing the water pump".  At the time I could only commiserate.

The "acid" or caustic "base" that they use to dissolve the scale and rust in the system works really well.  If you could "rod" the core before using the stuff you would have the same unparalleled process that the rad shops use.  The problem is getting all that stuff out of the rad and rinsing it.  I still use it but I have a different procedure for the flush.  The water pumps are taken out by leakage and secondary bearing failure.  I have done bus engines but I pay a LOT of attention to the after flush.  I heat the clear water fill up to operating temp with the heater defroster on and drain and repeat till the flush water no longer has that slick soapy feel.  That takes a min of four cycles.  I use washing soda and clean a system with a quart box of  soda dissolved into the first water charge.  That doesn't require any neutralizer but if you had a seriously cruddy system I would go with the two part stuff.


All these years and all those water pumps and all those busted knuckles......it was the flush "stupid"....I said, talking to myself.

Be well Warrior and Happy Holidays,

John

[NJT 5573]

A garden hose will work fine. The trick is to push the bugs and dirt out the same direction that they came in. That means the water goes in from the engine side in most cases.

[JohnEd]

55,

If you get the hose pressure at the bottom of the rad and have the top open you will get that reverse flow that you refer to.  True!  I used to do that "before" I used the chemicals and I got a lot of scale and calc and rust chunks out.  The chems didn't have to be spent on the crud I removed mechanically with the forced flush.  95% of the stuff that hurts you is "in" the rods and impedes the flow that will clean them so all you achieve with the reverse flush is to keep the cleaning solution stronger longer.

When you flush with a garden hose you flush only the radiator and leave chemicals in the block and the heater.  Great idea to flush the rad with the garden hose and drain the block with the block drains and then close and fill the system and run till warm and heat is being put out by the defroster.  Then repeat the proced three or four times till the drain water is free of chems.  Its the flush that saves the water pump and prevents your eating the rad out from the inside.

Don't mean to talk down to anybody but "you don't know what you don't know" and "you don't know what somebody else doesn't know"


HTH,

John

And on review:  55 was talking about "reverse flushing" the exterior fins.  After I did a flush from the engine compartment I would go in the opposite direction.  And repeat!