How did I rid my air system of all water and other junk?
 

How did I rid my air system of all water and other junk?

Started by belfert, November 30, 2008, 01:12:38 PM

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belfert

I seem to have some water and probably other junk in my air system.  Last winter below freezing the air governor didn't work and the air wouldn't build up.  I never replaced the governor since it works fine above freezing and I can't get to the compressor due to stupidly placing house batteries in the way.

I am going to move the house batteries in the spring and replace the governor.  What else should I do to get rid of moisture and other junk in the system?  The rear air tanks have automatic drains of some type on them.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

white-eagle

i just replaced the dessicant on my air dryer a month ago because everyone said i should last winter.  i'm not sure that fixed any problem or not.  when i drove to thanksgiving, i first had to free up something that felt like a frozen drum or brake.  same problem i had last december in the driveway except last year it took 3 hours to free up, this year just 20 min.  bus wouldn't move until something released in front.  this year, i applied pressure at full 120 a couple times, moved from reverse to drive a couple times, and something gave way.  when i put it into reverse, the whole bus jumped and seemed to rock like everything except 1 front tire was moving.  after 2 more shifts, something let loose and we jumped forward.  sounded like, and felt like, a brake shoe came unfroze or the spring finally let the air retract the brake. 

i'm thinking i have to remove and blow out an air line?  maybe you also if that is what your issue is or feels like?
Tom
1991 Eagle 15 and proud of it.
8V92T, 740, Fulltime working on the road.

Fran was called to a higher duty 12/16/13. I lost my life navigator.

belfert

I did overhaul the air dryer in 2007.  I don't think it had ever been touched from what I could tell, but I also only have 300 to 400 thousand miles on my coach.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

letz4wheel

I assume you know how to drain the tanks with the valves on each tank? If they don't have ripcords on them you might want to install them just to make the process easier. Other than that there is a ping tank somewhere near the compressor. This needs to be drained also.
You might want to check into some air system conditioner. Some use just plain alcohol some use the manufactured stuff. I have used neither so I can't be of help.

'78 MCI MC-8
4 speed
8v71

Sojourner

Belfert....first of all...did you ever fully all air tank before freezing season? This is a must do procedure so that all water is drain before it turn into ice in air tanks or you will have the problem of air line clogged with frozen ice and all the control valves including governor. Even if got full air pressure in tanks, you will gamble if the foot control valve will freeze later into NO BRAKE. I been there and done that at a meat packing house. I was their mechanic to maintain a fleet of trucks in mid Michigan.
Even after engine warmed up will not get remove ice because leaking air will act like Freon does to make things colder than surrounding air temperature.
Your only choice is to wait until it ambient temperature is above 32°F or tow it into a warmed shop to thaw and fully drained all the air brake system.
You can run alcohol thorough the system (if you get the alcohol liquid to the ice in the first place) however it will remove lubricant from all air control valves this time. You still will not remove all ice out even after it working...later it start same problem all over again.
Normally OEM equips optional alcohol system is used in very small vapor amount to prevent washing out the lube in all the control valves system.
The bottom-line you need to thaw the whole bus to drain the water out before into freezing driving condition.
About why water get into air lines & tanks. Whenever ambient air above freezing temperature and humidity present, air compressor is pumping that humid air into your brake system to condense into liquid state equal water.
Air filter/purger is only good for warmed and very small amount of water vapor to help keep it from building small amount water being stored in the air tanks.
Again to remind you to do the important step first....do what the first paragraph mentions. No need to replace parts yet until after thawed and tested.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
http://dalesdesigns.net/names.htm
Ps 28 Blessed be the LORD, because he hath heard the voice of my supplications. The LORD is my strength and my shield; my heart trusted in him, and I am helped: therefore my heart greatly rejoiceth; and with my song will I praise him

buswarrior

Hello manasst.

It sounds like you have brake shoes rusting to drums, not an air system problem.

The coach simply must be driven regularly, not only for the brakes, but for every other mechanical system.

A coach that gets driven once a month for two hours just drives away like a car everytime.

A coach that sits for months at a time causes trouble, and someone in the party more than likely doesn't find encouragement in that, usually the MRS, and now SHE isn't enjoying the bus because HE is too lazy to keep it working well. SHE is now worried about the reliability, instead of being impressed with HIS manliness in repairing said broken down again coach.

And fooling with the mechanicals gets old for HIM eventually, unless he really isn't getting any from HER, and this mechanical upkeep is HIS only outlet for HIS frustrations and sense of manhood...

Which, of course, is about busnuts other than those present...

Anyway, if you take that bus for a drive, use the brakes a bit to get the rust off, it won't hang up again for a little while, try the bus again in a week and see.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

NJT 5573

If you really have a moisture problem, I would replumb the air drains to a hand petcock and mount the petcocks at the wheel wells. DOT plastic will work fine. You can then drive all day with the drains slightly open and dry everything out. The air compressor will also move warm air throughout the system and you will end up with a clean and dry system. 
"Ammo Warrior" Keepers Of The Peace, Creators Of Destruction.
Gold is the money of Kings, Silver is the money of Gentlemen, Barter is the money of Peasants, Debt is the money of Slaves.

$1M in $1000 bills = 8 inches high.
$1B in $1000 bills = 800 feet high.
$1T in $1000 bills = 142 miles high

white-eagle

Quote from: buswarrior on December 01, 2008, 07:36:16 AM
Hello manasst.

It sounds like you have brake shoes rusting to drums, not an air system problem.

The coach simply must be driven regularly, not only for the brakes, but for every other mechanical system.

A coach that gets driven once a month for two hours just drives away like a car everytime.
...
Anyway, if you take that bus for a drive, use the brakes a bit to get the rust off, it won't hang up again for a little while, try the bus again in a week and see.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Drove it 60 mi one day, the 60 mi back the next, the 40 mi round trip a few days later.  no problems after the start on first day.  We've been driving every few weeks to teach the MRS how to drive, just in case.  or at least something about starting, stopping and turning.
Rust?? On an Eagle??  No way!  ;D
Tom
1991 Eagle 15 and proud of it.
8V92T, 740, Fulltime working on the road.

Fran was called to a higher duty 12/16/13. I lost my life navigator.