Breaking in a New Engine....

[Iver]

Just curious as to what should the proper procedure be for breaking in a newly rebuilt 8-92?
     Thanks,  Iver.

[quantum500]

Run it hard, run it often.

[RJ]

Iver -

1. Make sure it has STRAIGHT 40 wt, CF-2, 1% or less sulfated ash oil in it.

2. Drive it.

3. Drive it around town, Drive it on the freeway.  Drive it in the mountains - mucho good, puts even more load on it!

4. Drive it some more.

5. After you've put about 5,000 miles on it, change the oil and filters.

6. Drive it and enjoy it.


FWIW & HTH. . .

[HB of CJ]

Same answer only I would change out the break in oil at $1000$ miles. Also, after about only 50 miles or soos, I would drain a little bit of oil out of the oil pan via the plug and take a look at it.

Check the oil over with a looking glass for interesting stuff that doesn't belong there.  You have an expensive engine.  A little time here is cost effective in my opinion.  Who rebuilt it?

Try using a pair of binoculars turned arouond backwards employing a bright light source.  Makes a great magifying glass.  If you see small bits of metal you might have a later problem. 

[Don4107]

My 71 series DD manual has a section in the back on dyno break in.  Interesting reading.  Gives expected oil use ect.  DA  book calls for quite a bit of heavy load time.  Best I would be able to do is make a few trips up the longest pass I could find.

What do the people that rebuilt the engine recommend?  I would not want to give them any reason to squirm out of the warranty.

Good luck,
Don 4107

[johns4104s]

I am told by the previous owner that i need to have the rack on my rebuilt 8v92 run again when I reach at 9000 miles from when he had it rebuilt? I am close to that now. what do you guys think?

John

[Iver]

I made sure I have the proper oil in it.  My rebuilder who rebuilds train engines and tugboat engines is very familiar with 2-strokes,(they use them in some of their equipment), and he made sure I had the correct oil etc.

The reason I asked was that someone told me to run the engine hard and don't let the cylinders "glaze over"?
I have had to work all the "bugs" out of the coach and I think all is now ok and I have around 200 miles on it with about two-thirds of that on the freeway.

Should I now go "hill climbing"
           Thanks, Iver.

[NJT 5573]

Don't get it hot. If you do don't let it cool off real fast.

If you run it into a mountain, back out a gear or two and cool it off before you go over the top. After you crest the top ride the brakes and give it some fuel so you can put a little heat back in it about every 30 seconds going down the other side. Don't just let it suck cold air and shrink quickly. I drive my engines like that all the time, but I have some engines that will make a lot of heat. I can't just throw any driver behind them or I spend all my time fixing hung pistons. If you have power, you have to respect it. The best pulling 2 strokes I had always needed 2 air filters to run, (not easy to do on a bus).

With a rebuild I would drop an extra gear and keep it on the governor on all the hills for about 20,000 miles.

[pvcces]

Oil analysis will show the break in process; wear metals will drop slowly until you get about 30,000 miles on it.

We had one in a boat, and it wouldn't seat the rings. It was hard starting, smoked a lot and misfired. I went to a rebuilder and he told me to take her out and firewall it for four hours. I was sceptical and checked around with a number of people that I knew, and they confirmed the recommendation.

We took it out and found a place we could run without slowing down, and we got the four hours on it. The engine acted like a new one after that. No smoke, no leaks, very smooth and easy starting. After that, I was sold on a hard run for a fresh Detroit.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey