Con fused - Page 2
 

Con fused

Started by Zephod, August 06, 2017, 05:54:12 AM

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belfert

I use ATC fuse blocks for all DC stuff since that is what the bus wiring uses.  I probably have at least a dozen of each size.  Delcity used to require minimum orders and I would add cheap ATC fuses to my order to meet the minimum.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

Iceni John

Quote from: bevans6 on August 06, 2017, 08:45:11 AM
Normal practice is to never fuse the ground connection.  If you do, consider using an auto-reset breaker.  With that said, there is nothing inherently wrong with fusing the ground connection of a battery aside from introducing a failure point, presuming you fuse the positive side coming out of the battery.
Some years ago when Sean Welsh was contributing to this forum he advocated using catastrophe fuses on the negative side of house battery banks.   On his cogent advice (and he certainly knows more about such matters than me!) I've done the same  -  I have a quick-blow 300-amp Class T fuse on the negative of each battery bank's house output.   For individual load protection I'll still also use fuses or breakers on the positive of each DC house circuit.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

bevans6

While catastrophe fuses in the grounds of a house back make sense if it's just a house bank, if you set up to bridge to boost start batteries they could be a problem with starting current loads.  Just to be aware if you do that.
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

Iceni John

Quote from: bevans6 on August 07, 2017, 04:06:04 AM
While catastrophe fuses in the grounds of a house back make sense if it's just a house bank, if you set up to bridge to boost start batteries they could be a problem with starting current loads.  Just to be aware if you do that.
I've taken care of that possibility by having two Blue Sea 9001 switches for the starter boost connection, one for positive and the other for negative.   This way if I'm boosting the start batteries the negative is also connected directly to the starter, bypassing the expensive ($45 each!) Class T fuses.   I don't know exactly what the current draw is to start my engine, but I assume it's briefly more than the fuses' 600 combined amps.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

bevans6

The fuses are in series with the battery, you don't add amps in series circuits.  If you have two 300 amp fuses in series, you have a 300 amp fuse.  If fuses are in parallel, they share the current between them.

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

Iceni John

Quote from: bevans6 on August 07, 2017, 07:08:07 AM
The fuses are in series with the battery, you don't add amps in series circuits.  If you have two 300 amp fuses in series, you have a 300 amp fuse.  If fuses are in parallel, they share the current between them.

Brian
Two independent battery banks, each with its own 300A catastrophe fuse, both banks available to boost the starter if needed (or just one bank or the other if I choose).

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

bevans6

That makes sense!   ;D
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia