What does "idle speed position" look like? (SOLVED)

[GnarlyBus]

I'm gearing up for my first valve adjustment and injector timing on my 6v92. I think I fixed my jakes (another thread I'll update once I'm sure after a road test) and my tools came to tackle this job so help me out with something. How do I know if the governor is in "no fuel position"?

Also what type of governor do I have? The manual seems to suggest 3 different styles are possible (limiting speed, variable, etc).

Thanks!

[Geoff]

That should be a DWLS.  No fuel position is when the small lever is pushed in, the opposite of where it is now. 

[GnarlyBus]

So like this? How do I make that happen?

[GnarlyBus]

Wait, the manual says to "place the governor speed control in the idle speed position" and "if a stop lever is provided, put it in the stop position".

So what does "idle speed position" look like and do I have a "stop lever"?

[Utahclaimjumper]

 The stop lever is the small one that you started your arrow at. The small air cylinder pushes this lever to the stop position (in the direction of the arrow)>>>Dan

[GnarlyBus]

Ok, so the lever on the left is the stop lever. Thanks!

I'm reading the manual and preparing to adjust the valves (see attached photo). How do I "place the governor speed control in the idle speed position"?

Also, how do I secure the stop lever in the stop position?

Thanks!

[bevans6]

The "throttle cable" is attached to the governor speed control lever, and it has those two big springs that keep it in the idle position.  The engine stop lever is the smaller one with no cable attached to it, just the air cylinder that pushes out to move it to the stop position - fully rotated clockwise until it stops.  You can use a block of wood cunningly shaped to sit between the air cylinder push rod and the lever (just make it like a wedge and push it in until the lever stops moving, or I use a piece of mechanic's wire to pull it as far as it goes.  If all you are doing is adjusting the valves and the timing, all putting the engine in no-fuel and idle does is make sure it doesn't kick or start by accident when you are barring it over to adjust each cylinder.  It's not critical to the adjustments you are making.  If you are going past that and running the rack, then several governor adjustments and positions become critical.  It's good practice to lock the governor in no-fuel whenever you are working on the engine.  Last year I had my engine out for around 10 months sitting on a stand, I wanted to test some modifications to the starter motor so put power to it to make sure it engaged to the flywheel properly. it spun the engine over (which is what I expected) what I didn't expect was at least several injectors still had a little fuel in them and it kicked for several revolutions.  Scared the crap out of me because I had barred it over at least a dozen full revolutions  while installing the new flexplate, transmission, etc -all with the engine in no-fuel - but I had taken the no-fuel lock off since I was in the final stages of rolling the engine back in.  Should have left it on!

Brian

[GnarlyBus]

Awesome! Thanks for taking me to school! This is just the info I needed! I appreciate you also sharing the "why" of these precautions with a story I will remember.