More opinions needed! 2 steps forward...one step?

daddysgirl · December 02, 2016, 07:47:43 AM

Take a look

daddysgirl · December 02, 2016, 07:49:11 AM

The first picture is the cable that goes over to the big stud. Second is where the alternator cable connected to the rear box.

gumpy · December 02, 2016, 09:40:44 AM

Wow! Yeah, good call on replacing those.

Again, I think you should put it all back the way it was and get it working. Then focus on updating to the schematic, one piece at a time.

Primarily, the cables you have off are not related to the schematic changes. That will involve only the solenoid control wiring, so all small stuff.

daddysgirl · December 03, 2016, 07:33:47 AM

OK. I agree Craig.
I have no problem getting it back the way it was...save one question.

The cable that goes from the rear frame stud to the rear junction box plug had three wires attached to it that I had to cut to get it off.
One of the wires went to the left side large stud on the starter relay. The other was the smaller starter relay ground. HOWEVER...after they left the rear box, they were not connected to anything. They ran across with the cable, then into a metal tube that ran along the frame to the area of the starter.

Should I put them back?

And thanks Craig. I really appreciate all of your help.

gumpy · December 03, 2016, 09:42:42 AM

Quote from: daddysgirl on December 03, 2016, 07:33:47 AM

The cable that goes from the rear frame stud to the rear junction box plug had three wires attached to it that I had to cut to get it off.
One of the wires went to the left side large stud on the starter relay. The other was the smaller starter relay ground. HOWEVER...after they left the rear box, they were not connected to anything. They ran across with the cable, then into a metal tube that ran along the frame to the area of the starter.

Should I put them back?

And thanks Craig. I really appreciate all of your help.

What do you mean my "attached"? Were the wires just tie-wrapped to the cable, of were they physically connected to the cable end, like you see on a smaller vehicle battery cable?

I'm assuming the former, since attaching a positive to the ground stud on the solenoid wouldn't make sense.

These will be the wires that will conform to the schematics for your starter connections through the relays in the RJB and the transmission NSS. If they are in good condition and there's enough room to put ends on them when you get to that point, I'd say leave them. If not, pull new wires, either now, or when the time comes to update to the schematic.

daddysgirl · December 04, 2016, 06:26:44 AM

They were individual wires that ran in the conduit with the cable, from just outside the junction box until the cable reached the frame stud, curbside. They then came out, and went into a tube that ended at the starter.
When I reconnect that cable, I'm going to add three 10ga wires, so as you suggested, I can wire the start circuit correctly at some point. I will dip all of the ends in several coats of liquid electrical tape until I'm ready for them.

It only took 4 days of soaking in PB Blast to remove the screws and the old frame stud. I also followed your advise again and had Luke send me a new one.
I'm going to clean up the engine area, (with steam...NOT Brakecleen) fix the holes in the fiberglass that I can reach with the engine in-frame (where all the cable hangers came loose) install the new frame lug and hook up everything except the starter. (I want to double check everything before I add my new starter to the system).
So now I have a plan...BUT...

The only issue I have at this point is that the 4/0 cable (big one from the battery) literally welded itself to the large washer. If I remove it, I don't think the copper end will be as it should, I am NOT replacing that 35' 4/0 cable, and there is no way I can cut it off and add a new end. It would be too short, and there is nothing there strong enough for me to beat a new end on. So, I'm going to try to make sure both sides of it (married to the washer) are clean and smooth...to prevent ANY chance of even the slightest arc. I don't ever want to see another arc...unless I change my name to Noah

If I can't get it right, I'll update again.

The new stud and washer aren't copper but it shouldn't matter. BUT, do I separate and stack the three cables with the washer, or stack them together with the washer on top?
The 4/0 cable as installed, was connector face down, washer on top of it, if it matters. I never moved it.

gumpy · December 04, 2016, 07:00:17 AM

Well, you need to have good contact between all three cable ends. If I'm not mistaken, you now have two new cables in the stack, so those should be corrosion free. I would take a large file and clean up the battery cable end so you can get good contact with the other two. Stack them together with a dab of dielectric grease, put the washer on top and tighten nut. Use and ohm meter to ensure you have no contact with the frame.

daddysgirl · December 06, 2016, 08:30:44 AM

Craig you are correct that 2 of them are new, and the 4/0 is welded to the old washer.
When it stops raining, I'm going to find a way to make it sit straight on the new stud and tighten it down so I can check it before I add my other 2 new cables to it.
It will NOT touch the frame.

ArtGill · December 12, 2016, 05:04:40 PM

How is your starter problem coming?

daddysgirl · December 14, 2016, 01:52:14 PM

Well...
I have a new starter (haven't installed it yet) because I'm making ALL new harnesses, and the largest problem was the best way to fix the 4/0 from the battery.
So, I ordered a 4/0 industrial splice kit. Took a day to build the nerve to cut the old self-soldered end...but I did. Took me a while to get the cable into the joint, but that's a good thing I suppose. When I was done, I suspended the 4/0 in the air and turned on the battery. 25.2 steady volts

I wanted to check it before I connected it to the new power stud. I just finished new 2/0 cables that run to the rear box (along with the three wires for the starter that were not being used...I labeled them and I am going to leave them coated in liquid tape until I wire the rear the way it's supposed to be) and the new cable and wires from the 50DN to the rear junction box stud and the 2-panel studs.

Funny thing...I got a VERY good deal on 75' of industrial "everything proof" conduit. Pulling the 2/0 wasn't as easy as I thought it should be. The conduit is larger than the cable...but I wrestled it in.

Spent most of a day steaming the engine bay (before the wires and yes, I made sure nothing got to the alternator) and I have a few spots to fill in before I paint what I can reach. When I get that done, and everything re-hung... the new starter should (hopefully) be in.
I'll post update when I get that beast (starter) changed out