New Guy - Questions about AC

[artvonne]

  My intent is to go through the OTR system and compressor enough to know its mechanically sound, replace any needed mechanical parts, seals, gaskets, o-rings, rebuild the hoses, etc., and likely convert it to 134a. My understanding is the load valves on the heads can be adjusted to derate capacity. I should be able to make it drop out two banks once its cooled down. In any case, the compressor responds to cooling load, and as the max load will be greatly reduced, due to better insulation, less glass and less people, I should be able to cut the power consumption considerably. And with a greatly reduced capacity I could reduce condensor size a bit. I also believe I can put a magnetic clutch on the compressor, I have to look into that.

  With a thinner condensor, I hope to place a second condensor of about 2 tons capacity against it. Inside the HVAC housing, I hope to slip in a second AC evaporator. Then I can remote mount an 120V 1 1/2ton compressor and again set it up on 134a. This would give me two seperate AC systems that I can repair and service myself.

  The next obstacle is the HVAC and condensor fans. Combined they draw over 110 running amps, possibly over 5 HP at the engine feeding the alternator. I should be able to cut CFM at the condensor by at least half, and simularly in the HVAC compartment. Im hoping to use pairs of axial ducted fans in both locations, which should drop consumption considerably.

  Once operational, the roof airs can come down and be replaced with crank out roof vents and vent fans. I cant say it wont use less fuel than running a generator, and I cant say the loss of drag getting the roof clean will help fuel consumption either. But the Bus will look better, the AC will be much quieter, the cieling wont have things poking down to whack my head on, I can fix it myself, and probably some other plusses I cant think of yet.

  OT. I dont know if I can make this work, but with the centrifugal fans in the condensor bay gone, and pancake fans on the condensor, I believe ill have enough room to cram the genny into that bay and remote mount the radiator. 

 

[TomC]

You might consider mounting the generator elsewhere.  To many heat producing items to mount in the A/C bay.  The generator should have its' own area-big enough so you can put a nice sound enclosure around it.  Remember-there is no such thing as a to quiet generator!  I've been to bus conversion get together where the generator is just mounted behind the A/C grill, or in the engine compartment on the right side where the OTR A/C equipment used to be without a sound enclosure.  Believe me-you can hear it-so much so, my wife and I were running my generator, my roof top A/C, and watching TV in the back and could still hear the generator of our neighbor that was about 75ft away.  The owner of that noisy generator couldn't hear it since his hearing was almost completely gone-do figure!  Good Luck, TomC

[Tikvah]

You might consider mounting the generator elsewhere.  To many heat producing items to mount in the A/C bay.  The generator should have its' own area-big enough so you can put a nice sound enclosure around it.   I've been to bus conversion get together where the generator is just mounted behind the A/C grill, or in the engine compartment on the right side where the OTR A/C equipment used to be without a sound enclosure. 

Where do you suggest installing the generator?  If I put it in a luggage bay there wouldn't be enought air flow?  Right?  Or is there another way?

[artvonne]

  Its a pretty small Generator, and without the Radiator in there will take up even less space. I believe I have enough room to encapsulate the generator and still provide access.

  My first effort will be to bench test the Gen in the layout im considering, then to see how difficult it will be to place it in that Bay. We'll see.

[JohnEd]

Art,

There are many designs floating around for home made "roll-out slides for the gen.  Dallas had a really nice one that he designed and posted.  Mount the gen on shock mounts.  Mount the shock mounts to the slide.  Mount the slide through the high density particle board to the frame.  A layer of lead sheeting inside the box or better, between two layers of the particle board.  Egg crate typw foam gets glued and stapled thru the lead to the wood box.  You still need air flow so both ends of the box are a plenum with a 180 degree air flow reversal built in.  Use a squirrel cage to move the air cause the duct with the 180 will resist air flow and reduce the efficiency of a bladed fan lots.  I would suggest mounting the exhaust muffler inside the box and operating/controlling the fan with a thermostat so it would run till the box cooled after use.  CO, CO2, heat and smoke sensors that will turn of fuel and elect when alarmed.  Sprinklers?  See RVSAFTYMAN for fire suppression and alarms.  You may not be able to afford or even want all of this but it makes interesting ,........!  Mount your exhaust so the pipe exits the under-coach area where you can run a 2 inch pipe up the side to deflect ex noise and gasses over your and your neighbors heads.  Insulate the bay door heavily.  I would put a small rad fan in there to keep all the air properly stirred although the circulating air fan should keep it stirred.  I am anal about this stuff. 

Terribly interesting....thanks,


John

See other posts for the name of that high density wood sheeting and it sure as heck is not "Particle Board".