Running water lines

[Len Silva]

Just be sure that you are using clean air to blow it out with.  Bus air or even shop air might be oily and nasty if not well maintained and filtered.

[BG6]

I went to Lowe's and Home Despot and bought:

1 100-ft roll of 3/4" PEX tubing (red), of which I used about half
1 PEX crimper (the kind which over-centers when fully closed)
2 bags (25 ea) of crimp rings
2 bags (5 ea) of T fittings
2 bags (5 ea) of 90-degree fittings
Several miscellaneous adapters to connect PEX to copper, threads, etc
1 tube of Just For Copper
Fittings as needed for the inlet, water heater, water filter, washing machine, etc.

I WISH that I had also bought a PEX ring cutter, for when I redesigned a little and had to cut some of the rings with a jigsaw.

My system is currently set up as a "park" system, without tanks.  Water comes in through an RV supply hose, Ts off to the toilet then goes to the filter (which has a cut-off valve) -- this means that I can cut off the whole rest of the system for repairs and still have the toilet working! -- then out of the filter, T to the water heater, T for hot and cold to go forward to the kitchen sink and back to the tub / shower.  The washer and bathroom sink come off of spigots Td to the water heater hot and cold fittings.

I have a Roman tub spout, with controls on the side of the tub (within reach of a person soaking in the Jacuzzi tub) as well as a single-control shower control, the spout is Td so that either the handles or the shower knob will run through the tub spout if the shower diverter isn't flipped.

[belfert]

I would not recommend 3/4" pipe for fresh water in a bus if you ever boondock.  The big issue comes when using hot water.  The hot water will take longer as it has to push more cold water out of the way.  You end up wasting a lot of water on the hot water side.

I don't know any reason why you would need the extra volume of 3/4", but maybe somebody has a reason.

[Fred Mc]

When I built my bus 20 years ago I designed it so all the water drained out for winterizing. The only place I play special attention to is the toilet. To winterize I drain the tank, drain the p-traps, undo 3 connections (they are screw on) take the drain plug out of the demand-hot water heater,turn all the taps "ON" and its done. Other than waiting for the tank to drain its about a 15 minute job.

So it is possible to design a system that will drain for winterizing. I've never ever bought any antifreeze.