Shore Power connection for my S&S in all this heat

[Gary LaBombard]

JR,
Replacing the 1988 type roof air is a priority for the spring of 2007.  New one's have to be more efficient and the noise has to be less.
To answer your question if If I cleaned the filters, absolutely.  This also was a priority right after purchase, it runs like this even with both the roof and inside cowling  covers off. 

If we get through Timmonsville in Oct. and Arcadia in Dec. I will be happy and then replace it.  Thanks again for comments.
Gary

[NJT5047]

Gary, you reckon you'll need an AC in Arcadia?  Hey, I hope so!  We're looking into making that event.   I don't like the cold!  Gimmie warm! 
Cheers, JR 

[TomC]

One more suggestion on why the compressor is cutting in and out, and your circut breaker is running warm.  Sounds like the wires leading from the circut breaker box to the A/C are too small of gauge.  This is indicated by the drop in voltage, by the compressor throttling on and off (possibly the compressor is heating up and the thermal breaker on the compressor is kicking off).  Should be using 12 gauge wiring for the A/C.  Good Luck, TomC

[Catskinner!]

Gary

We just returned from our 5500 mile trip to Oregon, a couple of weeks ago.
2 of my old a/cs cycled on the thermal overloads in the compressors when
we were in Las Vegas. Of course the temp. was in the 115 to 120 range.
The one new one ran fine and never cycled off.  The 2 old ones are at least
10 years old as they were on the bus when i bought it.  And yes I checked
everything including amperage, voltage, how clean the condenser and ev-
aporator was.  Just a note, I was in the Commercial and Industrial Refrigeration
Business for over 25 years and have encountered this problem, even on
larger compressors over the years. 

Goodluck!
Catskinner!
Sonnie & Patti Gray
Pottsboro, Tx
72 0/5 Eagle 3406 Cat

[JerryH]

Gary:

Maybe I am missing something here, but here goes....

I would think you'd want to use a clamp type (amp) current meter.

While the meter is clamped around your power cable, turn the A/C unit from off to on.

Before you do this, the meter should display what kind of current (in amps) your RV (with normal functions on) is pulling.

When you engage the A/C unit, the meter should go up during the locked rotor state, then come back down.

It's during the start up that the unit demands the highest amperage, which is the time when it's likely that a breaker would trip.

See if the unit is running (during normal operation) higher (with all "other" things going) than your 30amp camp breaker.

Jerry H.

[Gary LaBombard]

Catskinner,
always good to hear from my Busconverter hero, so glad to hear you had a good trip to Oregon and I hope to find Patti doing fine also.  Look forward to seeing you & Patti at Arcadia. You confirmed that the age of my compressors which is nearly twice as old as yours now is the culprit because of age.  There is no doubt that It will be changed in spring.  I'll hate to get rid of this RV when all done!!

JerryH, I did not have an amp meter to check the actual amperage of my converter input unit when cycling on and off.  Another thing I have to break down and consider investing in.  I only had my VOM to find out if I at least had the correct voltage coming into S&S to work with.  Amperage, voltage not really my forte but I hope my Buddy Kyle5401 can spare me a little time to help me out as this is his specialty.  I only get to do the gruff stuff, nasty, filthy, ba-- busting stuff but want to learn what I need to on my rig.  I am a long way off on my bus to get that involved in electrical right now, have a lot of changing to do when I get to that point and then my attention will be to my teacher for sure.   I will get an amp meter though for sure soon.

TomC, I checked the wires to converter, they are 12 ga. so I feel at least they are alright to the AC units needing larger supply. 

I had completely forgotten that I have had a brand new (Parallax Power Converter, Model 6300 Q series, 45 amp with battery charger, new in the box!!) in my bus stuff parts shed and am thinking also of removing the original converter from the S&S and installing this new one as it also has a cooling fan that is internal and I want and need that I feel to help for safety if anything under the (Wife's Bed)!!  I believe because of the age of my original I will also be upgrading to a more safe and reliable converter as well and will do that perhaps next week.

Sorry to keep this thread continuing but maybe it is helping many with similar problems and your experience and suggestions on this thread is also helping many on the net.

Thanks again for all reply's and comments, they sure helped.

Now I am gonna try to post a few photo's on MAK as only a test so don't think I am giving you a great photo show, I have to learn this stuff also, can't let tuscontatoo have all the photo glory!!  Only kidding Tatoo.   

Gary