Finally more progress...

[travelingfools]

Well with the temp up over 40 for a few days, and me pulling a week of days as opposed to midnights at work, I finally got out and had some time to work on the bus. Ive had a problem with the air not shuting off or purging since last fall when I had a problem with a bad PR2 valve. I pulled the new valve off and set it at 65lbs, reinstalled, and still no dice. I switched out the new govenor I replaced with the old one and problem solved. One thing that I noticed was that there was quite a bit of water in the line and govener when I switched it out. Im thinking that might be due to fact that it hasn't been purging ?? Any thoughts ??

I also picked up a couple of group 31 batteries at Sams Club for $87. ea and got them in today with all new terminals. At some point in the near future Id like to move them to the rear. Ive read where a lot of folks have done that, but I couldn't find a thread on whats involved with doing that..Can anyone give some info on whats involved here or in a seperate thread please.

So, mechanicly wise, I need an oil change and to put on the block heater I bought over the winter, then back to working on the inside.

[Devin & Amy]

Fools,
We put our starters in the rear of an MC9 on the pass. side where the compressor used to be.
I built a level platform on the top of the old comp. mount. All I did was to hook another line to the rear "hot post". I just pulled the cables and allowed the front switch in the old battery bay to remain operational.(for the lights and such) I put in a new shutoff in front of the two new group 31 starter batteries in the rear access compartment and built cables to hook up to that stud forward of your starter. I also have an isolator in the system to allow my house batteries to charge from the alternator as well.
Hope I explained it well.
Devin
P.S. I had some 8D starter batteries explode on me which is why I chose group 31's. smaller bomb!

[Stan]

If you move the batteries to the rear, conect them directly to the hot and ground terminals on the starter.
That eliminates all the other potential bad connections.. Leave the original cables connected to the starter so that you have access to them in the front bay to use for charging them or to connect your house batteries for boosting.

[belfert]

I envy those who actually have time to work on their buses.  I've been working on getting my house ready to sell for months now.  The house went on the market this week so I am hoping to get back to the bus a little over a week from now.

[NJT5047]

I did exactly what Devin and Stan suggested.  My pair of group 31a sit on top of the old OTR AC mount.  Makes perfect battery rack for a pair of group 31s. 
Keep in mind that a cutoff of some sort must be installed in the pos lead of the engine room batts.  Connecting to the buss on the frame (where alternator and starter chassis leads terminate) will apply power to the coach even when the 8d battery master is in the off position.
Leave all of your original battery leads in place as they will give you a alternative starting source....assuming you either retain the 8ds, which may be useful in cold weather, or use a 24V house battery pack.   
I use 24V house and inverter.  Charges off the 50dn without a complicated system. 
Also have a Vanner to keep the two 8ds equalized since I tap 12V from the center. 
This is good if you don't do a lot of boonying...which we don't.   
If you want to spend a week at a time off-grid, install a dedicated house battery bank. 
We'll spend 3 or 4 days at a time off-grid using the 8ds as house batteries.  The setup has worked well for us.   The group 31s will easily start the bus in temperate weather.  May not in 40* or below.   Block heater will solve that problem.  As long as you have access to 120 Vac!

JR