77' MCI-8 fluids fluids fluids....

[JPacheco]

I've been reading through my maintenance manual for my MCI-8, and oh boy are there a lot of things to keep tabs on. In one section of the manual it lists all of the proper lubrications needed to maintain the vehicle. Unfortunately since this manual was written many years ago, some of this stuff is not sold anymore.

I tried searching around for some solid suggestions on replacements but it seems there's a lot to take into account. So, I was hoping any of the wise bus owners out there could help me straighten some information out. Here's what I got...

------------

Engine Oil: Shell Rotella T1 SAE40 seems to be most ideal

Transmission: According to the manual, only Dexron Auto Transmission Fluid can be used. Searching that up, it seems my options are quite varied. Other forums say to not mix transmission fluids, and I don't have any jugs from the previous owner. Suggestions?

Air Filter: Special "Kysor" Air Filter Fluid, which no longer exists. I heard that Marvel Mystery Pneumatic Tool Oil is a very close substitute.

Hydraulic System: SAE no. 10W motor (Service MS) is what's listed here. But with my automatic transmission, I've seen others say to use ATF? It also doesn't say how much is needed or what brand to go with, if that matters. How do I know which to use for sure?

Steering Gear: Before installing my new Steering Gear, I need to fill the housing with 7 pints of SAE 90 gear lubricant. Non-synthetic? Do I need to be weary of any kind of additives?

***Blower/Radiator Fan Gear Box: This lubricant has me at a loss. The dipstick is situated above the motor and has an unfamiliar smell. The manual says that the lube method is "plug" and that I should use engine oil? If it's as simple as using the Rotella oil in there, than great. But the smell doesn't seem to suggest that.

Coolant: I'm assuming the coolant is non-specific and I have a lot of options for that. But I'm not sure where the sight gauge is for my coolant.

Bearings: SAE 90 and SAE 140 for Rear Drive Wheels and Front/Trailing Wheels respectively. Not sure where to even start with bearing lubricant, so any tips for that would be greatly appreciated.

------------

My main concern is that Blower/Radiator Gear Box lubricant, but everything else I could definitely use to expertise on too. If photos of the fillers/gauges/dipsticks would help, I'll post those ASAP

Thanks in advance to any who might reply to this!


-Jared

[RJ]

Jared -

I'm just going to address your engine oil in this comment, others can chime in on what else you're asking about.

Detroit Diesel recommends straight 40wt oil with less than 1% sulfated ash content. If you look at Rotella T1's specs, you'll see that it just barely squeaks by - it's right at 1%. A lot of folks like to use it because it's often easier to find out on the road compared to other brands.

Detroit Diesel's Power Guard 40 is the original factory fill oil for the two-stroke engines, it's available thru any DD dealer's parts dept, but 99% of the time it will have to be ordered. A case of four gallons is part number 23512701, a five-gallon bucket is part number 23512734, and a 55-gallon drum is part number 23512702.

Mobil Delvac 1240 is exactly the same oil as DD's Power Guard 40 - Mobil just private labels it for Detroit. Delvac 1240 has the lowest sulfated ash content at 0.80%, and is a mineral-based product with excellent lubrication and low oil consumption properties. 104056 is the part number for a 4x1 case, 102565 is the part number for a five-gallon pail. 55-gallon drums are also available, I just don't have the part number in front of me at the moment. Summit Racing often has this oil on sale, with free shipping if your order's over $100. Like the Detroit product, you won't find this sitting on the shelf at your local auto parts house, it must be ordered.  This is the oil that I use in my Detroit.

Chevron's Delo 100 is also a popular brand used by lots of busnuts, and it, too, meets Detroit's specs. Sulfated ash is a little higher than Delvac at 0.85%, and it's also a paraffin-based product, so it's chemistry is a little different. Nearly everybody and their brother seems to order this from O'Reiley's Auto Parts, vendor code CHV, part number 100-40-1. This oil comes three gallons to a case, btw.

Miles Labs is another oil that meets DD's specs, it's available from Amazon in five-gallon pails. Sorry, don't have the part number, but it's easily found on the website.

NAPA Gold filters are also very popular with this crowd. They're made by WIX, and are of excellent quality. #1970 is the oil filter, #3118 is the primary fuel filter, and #3120 is the secondary fuel filter. Carry spares!

Oh, speaking of part numbers, with winter coming, #57-10 is the Anco number for your windshield wiper blades, #63-201 is the Trico number, and #6-2065 is NAPA's.

FWIW & HTH. . . 

RJ

[luvrbus]

The Miles oil is a Chinese oil made by Sinopec not a bad oil for the price you can order it from Walmart Sinopec Tulux C-F2 -40-2T. I use the Sinopec on fresh startups after a rebuild then drain it and go back to the Delvac 1240

[buswarrior]

Lbricants have evolved dramatically from the source material in the MC8 manuals.

You will get proper performance from a single modern grease.

The transmission is likely Dexron 3, only the fanatical busnut spends the money on synthetic for one of these.

Power steering will work just fine with engine oil, or transmission oil, or power steering fluid, or.... it really doesn't care. It is handy to consider fluids with different colours to differentiate the leaks...

I used the same gear oil in the blower gear as the differential, as the oiled wheel bearings. Choose some numbers based on the temps you likely will run in, see what is on sale, pick yer poison.

Overall, clean, fresh lubricant is what is important, more than the gradients.

Except the engine oil, use the stuff on Russ's list. Period, full stop.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[JPacheco]

Thanks to all for the helpful replies!

I didnt realize how many suitable options there were. I saw the 1% ash content in the manual for the engine oil and thought it was a requirement to reach the 1%...oops. Didn't help that I saw an oil change video for the same bus use it as well.

I bought two 5 gallon buckets of rotella already, is it too risky to use, or should i just use it up and then swap to Delo later down the road?

Once again, thanks for the replies!

[buswarrior]

The spec is the spec, if it is 1% or less, then it meets spec.

There are matters with an old bus that requires religious observance, however busnuts are prone to radical fanaticism on some topics...

A new to you bus engine would benefit from a short change interval, having no idea what the previous owner really did with it. Feel free to use up your Rotella, and then choose your house of worship moving forward?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Dave5Cs]

Final Charge" 50/50 heavy duty, O Reilly's. Fleet charge 50/50 SCA pre charged antifreeze
                               Zerex green heavy duty sold at Napa and about everywhere else made by Valvoline would be my choice. you can buy it pre charged or plain.

I use Delo 40 weight in engine and gear box for belt of death blowers.

[JPacheco]

alright great

and I've heard some say to use wheel bearing oil (90W) and delo (40W) for the blower. Does it really matter which? or not really