Starter lubrication

richard5933 · September 11, 2019, 06:29:51 PM

I've been looking over the lubrication chart and see that GM recommended servicing the starter as part of the lubrication procedure. Specifically, they recommend using SAE 10w oil to saturate the oil wick at one end (nose end) and to top off the oil reservoir on the other end (cable end).

I assume that the recommendation is still supposed to be followed, correct? Never have heard anyone doing this, but if it's possible and necessary I will give it a go.

I had a problem finding 10w oil, but I did discover that the hydraulic jack oil I have on hand is listed as 10w hydraulic oil. I'm thinking that will suffice, unless someone has a better suggestion.

Or, is this something better left alone? I know that many electric motors have been ruined by being over-oiled and so some manufacturers have stopped recommending oiling them, especially sewing machine motors. Not sure what the recommendation is with these old starters.

chessie4905 · September 11, 2019, 06:48:11 PM

3 and 1 oil. Just pull it and have it serviced before it let's you sit. After all it is almost 40 years since new.

richard5933 · September 11, 2019, 06:55:54 PM

Quote from: chessie4905 on September 11, 2019, 06:48:11 PM
...Just pull it...

You make that sound so easy. Almost like I can just reach in their and pull the thing on my own. Not sure I can even carry one around once it's out, let alone pull one out on my own.

Was hoping that there was a way to accomplish the oiling with the starter still in place. Are there caps over the oil ports that will be obvious? Or is this truly something best done with the starter out?

Bill Gerrie · September 11, 2019, 07:17:39 PM

Nobody ever oils the starter motor. Too hard to get to and too heavy for most on here to lift if you ever got it out.

luvrbus · September 11, 2019, 08:41:15 PM

Quote from: Bill Gerrie on September 11, 2019, 07:17:39 PM
Nobody ever oils the starter motor. Too hard to get to and too heavy for most on here to lift if you ever got it out.

They haven't put wicks and oilers on starter in the last 40+ years it was causing more trouble than it was worth with people over oiling and the oil collecting dirt and grime, I read that years ago in a Delco/Remy service bulletin even told the rebuilder how to plug the holes

richard5933 · September 12, 2019, 02:44:17 AM

Enough said. Glad i asked before spending too much time on this. Now on to the other lubrication points I can get to. thanks for the info.

chessie4905 · September 12, 2019, 04:10:46 AM

Careful greasing in driver's compartment. Couple of the grease fittings connect to points with tiny tubing. Make sure they don't blow out. Not uncommon to see 5 pound pile of grease lying under there. Many fittings are accessible from a pit, especially the middle shift lever pivot points.

richard5933 · September 12, 2019, 04:34:01 AM

Quote from: chessie4905 on September 12, 2019, 04:10:46 AM
Careful greasing in driver's compartment. Couple of the grease fittings connect to points with tiny tubing. Make sure they don't blow out. Not uncommon to see 5 pound pile of grease lying under there. Many fittings are accessible from a pit, especially the middle shift lever pivot points.

Been there. There are two of those tiny tubes coming from the bottom of the shift tower on my bus. They terminate in the compartment under the driver's seat, presumably to make lubrication easier. Both had blown out. Discovered this when I went looking for the cause of oil dripping on my spare tire. There was about 2 lbs of grease on the top of the hatch in the spare tire compartment. Removed the tiny tubes and put the zerks in their place. Got the points lubed and closed things up. Afterwards I found some replacement tubing at NAPA and will reinstall next time I have reason to take out the spare tire.

chessie4905 · September 12, 2019, 06:50:51 AM

Don't grease these in cold weather, even if using synthetic grease because the old stuff in there isnt and hard. Maybe change that tubing to copper.