102DL3 Windshield Gasket - MCI or Universal?

[mqbus767]

Hey lvmci,

Can you take a profile picture of the gasket where it's cut?
Can you measure the width of the gap on the frame side of the gasket? (1/8" maybe?)
Can you measure the approximate width of the gasket overall? (1" maybe?)

[mqbus767]

I've researched this a bit more:

For the windshield "fence" without the "windscreen" (Part No. 03-27-1742) - MCI Direct Parts - $450, WW Williams $324.78, Clark Power Services $405. (plus shipping)

I cut away some of the windshield gasket to examine the profile and found the folllowing:

• The outside width of the gasket is approximately 1.5" all the way around
  
• 
  The corners of the glass on the 102DL3 are squared off
  
• The top portion of the gasket has an inline profile where the body of the coach and the glass are in the same plane. They are separated by about 1/4" gap.
  
• The bottom portion of the gasket appears to be an overlap profile with the glass riding in front of the coach body and approximately a 3/16 or 1/2" gap. (assuming this offset allows more vertical shock relief when the coach hits a speed bump or goes off-roading)
  
• The glass is nominally 1/4" thick
  
• The top edge (fiberglass cap) of the window frame appears to be around 1/8" thick
• The bottom edge of the frame appears to be thicker, maybe just shy of 1/4" thick

This means replacing the "fence" with universal gasket material would require:

* A length of inline gasket with 1/4" left and right side gaps for the center (between the two windshields)
* A length of inline gasket with 1/4" x 1/8" for the top edge and possibly the sides
* A length of offset gasket with 1/4" x 1/4" for the bottom

Trim-lok is one brand of gasket that appears to be popular for this application. A reseller on Amazon sells the material in 25' and greater lengths. Trim-lok themselves only sell it in 100' rolls. A rep with Trim Lok says they use an acrylic adhesive to bond the gaskets.

* 1x 25' length of 1/4 x 1/4 inline - $62
* 1x 25' length of 1/8 x 1/4 inline - $42
* 1x 25' length of 1/8 x 1/4 offset (Trim lok doesnt make 1/4x1/4 offset) - $60
* 1x adhesive (i.e. Permabond TA4610) -  $20-$30

For a cost estimate of $194. So there's a potential cost savings of $130, but I'd have to work with the following differences:

* Trim Lok's gaskets are significantly narrower on the outside than the OEM gasket (1 to 0.8 inches vs 1.5")
* Will the 1/8 x 1/4 offset work where 1/4 x 1/4 was previously?
* The widths vary between the gaskets so mitred corners would not be simple
* Adhesion may or may not be sufficient to weather proof the joints

Decisions, decisions....

[luvrbus]

This what I use I don't glue those

[chessie4905]

Since the correct one is still available I'd bite the bullet, install it, and move on. If you assemble the other one with multiple sizes, there is a fair chance you will be dealing with leakage in the rain down the road. Gaskets do shrink some in time. For the amount of saving you are talking about, I don't think it is worth it.

[mqbus767]

Luvrbus, That looks truly medieval. 

I concur. Part ordered from WW Williams. Should be here in about a week. I'lll let ya'll know how it goes.

[luvrbus]

Luvrbus, That looks truly medieval. 

I concur. Part ordered from WW Williams. Should be here in about a week. I'lll let ya'll know how it goes.

That it is to join rubber or plastic

[mqbus767]

Got the rubber window gasket in this week, but it does not come with the locking rubber strip. I tried to get the locking strip from MCI resellers, but they weren't able to find the part number. I called 1/2 dozen rubber companies and finally landed on www.wefcorubber.com. They have a massive 200+ page catalog with every rubber profile shape you can think of. If you print out a page, you can place a cross section of your piece on it and see if yours matches theirs.

Anyways, I found my profile and ordered the 30' I'll need to lock the window in place. Not cheap at $2/ft., but probably not scandalous. If you need rubber extruded EPDM parts, seems like these guys have the stuff to do it.

P.S. My locking strip has the exact shape profile of their part no. "0011G-4", but dimensionally part no. "2179" seems to be a better fit.

[lvmci]

Hi mqbus,  my locking strip looks like a V belt, a fan belt from an old car, lvmci...

[chessie4905]

Probably the same one that is used on GM's. Tip: Avoid stretching lock strip when installing. Cut it about an inch too long. Work the extra back into the channel. Otherwise, in about 6 months to a year, you'll have a gap.

[mqbus767]

Great tip. I'll definitely do that.

In the bottom two pictures above you can see my small cut section of the old locking strip. Yea, it very much looks like an old-style v-belt.

[mqbus767]

Here's the final wrap-up for my MCI vs. universal debate. The windshield gasket is more complex than it appears to be from the outside. The middle and top pieces have channel blocks that slot into rails on the window frame to give significant structural support to the gasket. I'm very happy with my choice not to try and reproduce this using universal gasket material. I would have failed at this first critical and unforeseen feature.

We spent about 4 hours getting the window/gasket out and the new gasket/window in. It's not a job for the faint of heart. Like all things old bus related, I think things have shifted or torqued. The glass fit, but only barely and in some places it's compressed the new gasket so far that there is hardly any room left in the locking strip channel. I'm going to leave it in place and see if it settles a bit before trying to put the locking strip in.

It seals well except for the top edge which leaks like a garden hose. I think the fiberglass and aluminum skin are just too thin for it to seal properly. That probably explains most of the gooping that was on there with the old gasket and "windscreen". We did start a new crack in in one of the windshields that was already cracked. I'm sure this starts the countdown timer on windshield replacement. This particular pane also has some water fogging beginning between the layers in one corner. It will be tempting to take this to a glass company the next time around because I'm assuming they can grind the edges of the glass for a better fit.

For posterity sake and future bus nuts I present you with the disected bits of the windshield gasket. (The squeamish should look away now) Please be aware that these are approximate measurements. The old gasket is worn out and is most certainly distorted.

[mqbus767]

And a few pictures of the new gasket installed:

[chessie4905]

If you have or can get a tiny ceramic drill bit, drill a hole at end of crack or it'll keep spreading. Seal the hole with Duco cement or some other clear glue.

[DoubleEagle]

Thanks for finding Wefco Rubber Co., they have gaskets for collector cars as well. They even say if you can't find it in their catalog, they can make for you.