8-wire harness connector

richard5933 · February 14, 2019, 11:20:28 AM

I'm starting the process of updating my headlight resistor panel to a modern 24v-to-13.8v converter panel. I'm going to keep the four headlights separate, using four smaller individual converters in place of the resistors. I liked the redundancy, and I also will be able to preserve the existing wire this way. For those not remembering, the resistor panel was only outputting about 12v, not quite enough to keep the headlights burning at full volume.

My plan is to keep things looking as stock as possible. Right now the resistor panel connects to the harness with the 8-wire connector in the photos. The part I'm holding in my hand is the end connected to the resistor panel. There are four 24v leads coming in from the circuit breakers, and there are four 12v leads going out to power the headlights.

Luke didn't have a connector like this. I've searched and have found nothing. I know I could just cut the existing connector off the harness, but I don't like cutting up a good harness unless absolutely necessary. I'd like to just install a matching connector on the new converter panel and plug it in where the resistor panel used to be.

So, now the question. Does anyone know what this connector is? Is it still available somewhere? Any modern parts that will plug into it? Any suggestions?

chessie4905 · February 15, 2019, 04:03:11 AM

If you get headlamps with ecode lens, you can use LED bulbs that are dot compliant that work from 12 to 32 volt and not have to rig something up. That way you can get rid of the resistor panel. Not ll coaches had them. Some had a bypass plug instead. LEDs come in various lumens and some even have a color choice of brilliant white to more of an incadescent color. You'll get better light spread and improved lighting with far, far, better life of bulbs. Less wattage draw from bulbs. I buy bulbs from here and other places. Been very happy with them. And I don't blind other drivers. Also headlamps have adjusters to aid in this. The LEDs have much improved vision on rainy nights. Don't be afraid of the new technology. With the vibration and shock experienced by headlights in coaches, incadescent bulbs have a shorter life anyway.
https://www.superbrightleds.com

Here is ONE source of 5 3/4 housings. There are others with some searching.

https://www.rallylights.com/hella-5-3-4-round-h4-e-code-headlamp-with-city-light-hl66021.html

richard5933 · February 15, 2019, 04:44:03 AM

The problem with the LED is the depth. I don't want to make modifications to the OEM cans.

What in doing is really simple - replacing the stock resistors with electronic converters.

All I lack is the proper plug to be able to make this truly plug-N-play. The new panel will go in the same footprint of the original.

chessie4905 · February 15, 2019, 05:09:20 AM

There is room behind buckets, as the exit behind the sockets is flexible rubber. But your plan should be best for you.

chessie4905 · February 15, 2019, 11:46:47 AM

The connectors you have are GM Pack Con 1. I can find replacement wire terminals but after a lot of searching, cannot find the 9 terminal housings. They were used only two or three years till GM moved on to more compact sealed connectors. Unless you can obtain removed ends from a 4108 or 4905, you should consider Packard 56 style. The terminals are the same as used on your headlamp plugs, and housings come with maximum of 4 positions, all that I've found, male and female. You would need two each of M and F. They are much more common and were used for several years on all brands of vehicles, including yours. Why they went to that on the headlight wiring is beyond me. 56 style will easily carry as much current.

Here is a little limited info on connector styles:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/interior/1506-understanding-gms-most-common-plug-options/

richard5933 · February 15, 2019, 12:26:07 PM

If I can't find the exact connector to make it plug-N-play and have to replace both the male & female ends, I'm thinking about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HJVLF1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems like a good idea to keep this to the same single connector setup. This one is rated at 22 amps per wire, which is more than I'll be running through there, especially since each headlight has it's own feed.

Or, I have found a source for the female wire terminal ends which connect to the wires from the resistor panel and insert into the housing. I'm assuming that with a bit of patience I can dissect the thing and reuse the housing with new terminals on the wires from replacement panel.

Or, as a last resort I can use my trusty soldering iron and heat shrink tubing to simply splice the new wires to the old harness by cutting the wires between the old resistor panel and the connector. A bit cumbersome, but it would be functional.

chessie4905 · February 15, 2019, 01:04:49 PM

Fine, but those are awfully small terminals to mess with. I've used them in car electronic work and they work with nice with smaller wire. That's why I recommended Packard 56 type. But you can call Luke. He may be able to cut a pair of connectors out of a 4905 he's parting out. Whatever.

chessie4905 · February 15, 2019, 01:51:30 PM

A little bit of useful info. My 4905 has the 24 volt headlamps. 12 volt were an option btw. It has that same connector, but instead of connecting to the resistor block, it has a socket plugged into that connector with 4 short loops of wire. Wire loops connected as follows: D to J, C to H, B to G, A to F. Terminal E is blank or not used at both male and female connector. It is a connector installed by GM when coach was built.In case you decide to change to 24 volt headlamps later.
Even though mine doesn't have the resistor panel, the mounting holes are there. I was going to install the resistor pack from the other coach, but am going to go with leds instead. Plus, someone cut the plug off the panel and coach headlight harness and jumpered a piece of trailer wiring harness with but connectors.

richard5933 · February 15, 2019, 03:27:03 PM

Quote from: chessie4905 on February 15, 2019, 01:51:30 PM
A little bit of useful info. My 4905 has the 24 volt headlamps. 12 volt were an option btw. It has that same connector, but instead of connecting to the resistor block, it has a socket plugged into that connector with 4 short loops of wire. Wire loops connected as follows: D to J, C to H, B to G, A to F. Terminal E is blank or not used at both male and female connector. It is a connector installed by GM when coach was built.In case you decide to change to 24 volt headlamps later.
Even though mine doesn't have the resistor panel, the mounting holes are there. I was going to install the resistor pack from the other coach, but am going to go with leds instead. Plus, someone cut the plug off the panel and coach headlight harness and jumpered a piece of trailer wiring harness with but connectors.

You don't happen to have an extra female connector? (resistor panel side)

chessie4905 · February 16, 2019, 06:22:08 AM

Sorry, don't have a spare. I'd call Luke. It would be easy to unplug the jumper female end off one of his parts coaches.

richard5933 · February 16, 2019, 07:08:22 AM

Quote from: chessie4905 on February 16, 2019, 06:22:08 AM
Sorry, don't have a spare. I'd call Luke. It would be easy to unplug the jumper female end off one of his parts coaches.

Tried that - the closest he had was a 6-wire connector. He doesn't have a parts bus with an 8-wire harness going to the resistor panel.

chessie4905 · February 16, 2019, 09:28:44 AM

If it was mine, then I'd change over to the 56 with two plugs. Probe wires with a test light. Driver's side in one plug and passenger side in other, or high beams in one side and low beams in other. Easier for diagnostics down the road. What ever.

richard5933 · February 16, 2019, 09:37:56 AM

Quote from: chessie4905 on February 16, 2019, 09:28:44 AM
If it was mine, then I'd change over to the 56 with two plugs. Probe wires with a test light. Driver's side in one plug and passenger side in other, or high beams in one side and low beams in other. Easier for diagnostics down the road. What ever.

I thought about using these after you mentioned it. My mind went to keeping the four 24v feeds on one connector, and the four 12v outputs going to the headlights on the second connector.

If I did this and oriented each connector in the opposite direction, there would be no possibility of plugging in the two sides incorrectly. Also, If I ever upgrade to running 24v LED headlights I can just remove the converter panel and plug the connector with the 24v feed into the connect going to the headlights and all should be good to go.

chessie4905 · February 16, 2019, 10:09:18 AM

Thats what I forgot to mention in last post. No way to screw up years down the road. I took a quick look before going to town. I think the harness coming down is only 6 wires where it connects to circuit breakers. I think they all use same plug/socket.

richard5933 · April 15, 2019, 03:02:19 PM

Finally found it!

https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/gauge-cluster-connector-and-terminal-disconnect-kit

It's the connector at the top-left of the photo. Strangely, it was cheaper to just order this kit than special order the single connector. So, that's why I did.

Hopefully someone else will find what these guys sell helpful.