Towing question

[bansil]

I have to agree....if brakes work and steering wheel turns tires the right way...drive it

Not saying to do this: I have been known to drive vehicles with buckets, milk crates and folding lawn chairs (have someone follow you and just drive slow)

have fun and post pics 

[luvrbus]

Texas is kinda of funny for the requirements for the 1 way trip permit it maybe better and cheaper for him to have it towed ,there is no such thing as a 1 day insurance in the State of Texas there is a 30 day binder if you have the right policy and agent

[TomC]

If towing with wheels down-much easier (if you can get under the bus) to disconnect the drive shaft at the diff and tie it up, rather then pulling the axle shafts. Good Luck, TomC

[niles500]

Contact a heavy hauler(s) in the immediate area, leave the keys under the bumper, tell them to tow it when they have the next bobtail or they have nothing to do, best is a landoll or a tri-axle wheel lift (and no legitimate company will tow this way without pulling the axle(s) - anyone that wants to idle the mill or disconnect the drive shaft - run forest run) Rags can plug the axles for that short of a tow or try inflating heavy duty balloons in the cavity  - FWIW

[TomC]

Niles- what is the objection of disconnecting the drive shaft at the differential?
-Let's see the difference-Pulling the axle shafts-loosen 8-10 bolts on each side (if they're not frozen). Get either a puller or big hammer and pound like crazy until the flange releases from the hub. Pull the shaft out and make sure you have a 1/3 cut down gallon container to catch the stinky diff oil. Then make a wood block to seal off the hole from the axle shaft not being there and bolt that back on. Once there you have to do all this again in reverse. And trying to get the axle shaft back in can be a real time consuming, frustrating exercise. And this has to be done on both sides. Then after everything is buttoned back up (make sure you have two new hub gaskets), to check and refill the diff back up to the check hole.
-Let's see now-disconnecting the drive shaft. The hard part on a bus is to be able to safely crawl underneath without the chance of the air suspension coming down on you. If you can, then, just have to unscrew 4 small bolts from the U-joint, jockey the bearings out, then use wire to hold up the drive shaft while transporting. When you get there, do this in reverse. Hmm-which sounds easier? Good Luck, TomC

[chessie4905]

  Although it is another option under good conditions; easy access under coach.... you really think that disconnecting the driveshaft is going to be that easy? Remember those joints weren't apart yesterday. And disconnecting the flange if it has 8 bolts....Just pull the axles. I doubt the bolts would be seized, if they were, they'd just remove the whole stud instead of the nuts.  If they were seized, what would the u-joints be like? What if one or more of those little cap retaining screws were seized and snapped off while removing? Ever try to drill out a grade 8- 1/4 inch bolt?
    After removing the nuts, a big sledge rap or two on end of shafts will loosen them (don't hit the studs), and then stuffing a rag in the holes will work fine. Even though I have use of a pit, Disconnecting the shaft on my 4905 is a pita, and slightly less on my former 4104. Maybe a Prevost is considerably easier, but just from my experience. yrmv

[luvrbus]

Prevost are easy to disconnect the drive line 75 miles may not hurt to pull the axle but all wrecker services will pull the drive line if towing any distance the axle feeds the lubrication to the wheel bearings without axles the hubs and bearings receive no lubrication we were told at a Rockwell class but yet they leak oil when removed go figure     

[chessie4905]

   I would imagine that is why most haulers install plates over the ends to retain the oil in bearing cavity. BTW, another reason to have greased rear bearings instead of oil that can LEAK on the lining if the seal fails.

[Stormcloud]

One of our FL60 3-axle trucks at work required a tow last year about 60 miles to the shop.
The towing company chose to lift the truck by the steer axle, letting the truck idle for the trip.

The truck stalled part way along, and the operator did not notice. The automatic transmission bellhousing split the entire circumference of the case, and the crankshaft in the engine was broken with other piston and block damage damage.

We got the truck back 7 months later with a $76,000 repair bill, and a service engine light that remains lit always. The shop still works on it when we don't need it at work, but it ain't right yet.

Towing company insurance eventually agreed to pay the $76K.

Definitely pull the axles or driveshaft, or drive it if you can!!

[niles500]

Sorry TomC, didn't see your query till now but chessie pretty well answered - pulling the axles on a Prevost is a cake walk, why would you want to pay the labor for dis and reconnecting the drive shaft - you'd be the one getting the shaft quite literally