Inside walls.....

[buswarrior]

Best description I have read from busnuts involved strategically installing metal sheets against the bus ribs, after the insulation, and then skinning with the thinner wood of your choice.

Anything that needed secured was screwed with self tappers through the thinner wood, and into the metal for a secure attachment.

As the years go by, and the wood dries a bit, and you shake it up and down the road, stuff has a bad habit of loosening?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Bob Belter]

Ahoy, BusFolk,

A serious problem which is not mentioned is that of thermal conduction through the fastening screws which go through the plywood and into the structural metal.  I have that problem in my bedroom -- just #8x3/4" fh screws through 1/4" plywood into the roof structure.  Condensation, and if it is cold, frost on the screw head.  (I still do not have a final roof in my bus).

To sidestep the problem, fir 'flat'.  That is, fasten a stringer to the side of the metal structure.  It need not protrude a significant amount below the structure, and then fasten the plywood to the stringer.  That provides the fairly good insulating properties of the wood between the fasteners.  Nah, I didn't do that in back.  I did in front, and have no problems.

I'd suggest that you put a few layers of visqueen on the surface before you install your final plywood, to keep the space between the plywood and outside skin more dry.

On a 'cold start' conversion, I'd run some little plastic tubes into various appropriate places, and blow into them with a tiny computer squirrel cage blower continuously.

Enjoy   /s/   Bob         

[Dave5Cs]

I am with Jack C.

We used Furniture grade 3/4" Oak Ply. Rip down 3/4"X3/4" solid oak strips for attaching the ply(A bunch) an used that to secure everything at the bottom and tops down the walls. Did it in hidden areas so you don't see it. Makes it easy if you want to move something later or get to a wire problem or plumbing leak also, you just unscrew it. Our cabinets are connected the same way to the ceiling an walls etc.  Once you cut and fit them you unscrew them stain and lacquer them and put them back and you are done other than some trim if you want it. If you are going to use tile on a wall that may move a little if someone pushes on it in the middle. Use 100% silicon to install the tile or a fracture barrier and lots of flexible Latex additive in your grout or you could lose some( Don't ask me how I know).

Made doors out of a sheet also and used 2" solid oak around all edges with biscuits cut in and glued to hold ply nice and straight and then used hidden hinges on the closet doors and Piano hinge on Bath door.

Dave

[york bus]

I used exterior solid core flush doors for interior partitions.  They are 1 3/4" thick and I used hidden angle cleats at the floor, ceiling and walls.  The doors can be obtained from surplus building supply dealers for a fraction of their original cost in widths from 24" to 48".  The doors can be stained, painted or wallpapered and provide good thermal and sound insulation.  Any electrical type outlets were installed on the outside walls of the bus.  Just another alternative that has worked well for me.

York Bus