correct tool and technique for steering joint removal

[bevans6]

I need to remove a couple of the steering ball joints on my MCI, to diagnose a stiff steering problem.  I have reasonably fresh kingpins and bushings, but I can't get grease into one of them.  I want to take the steering joints off that hub (it's the drivers side, so it has both the tie rod and the drag link) and that will let me make completely sure that they are in top shape once I get grease into it.

I have done this many ways on different vehicles and at different times, although all a lot smaller.  The two hammer trick, the clamp and press tool, the pickle fork and big hammer, and the torch in conjunction with all of those.  This time, I thought I would try to start with the tool and technique that will work best, rather than starting with and working through all the ones that won't work.  I would also like to have the ball joints survive and be reusable, since they are in pretty good shape.   If someone who's done this a few times could point me at the best tool and the best way to go about this, i would be extremely grateful!

Thanks, Brian

[gmbusguy1]

My advise is to find your local friendly bus repair or heavy truck shop and borrow the correct tool for the job. I believe we used a puller of some type when we replaced a steering box a couple of years ago but my memory stinks. I do remember trying all the same tricks you mentioned with no joy

Chris

[bevans6]

I guess I am hoping to learn what the correct tool is, and go and buy one.  I like to be a self sufficient kind of person, sometimes saves me money, sometimes costs me money!  I just need to find out what the correct tool is!

Brian

[JackConrad]

   Not sure which steering joint you are talking about, but most are a tapered fit. Try looking at tie rod removal tools. Some are designed to be used with a hammer and some are designed to be used with an air impact hammer. Note: the bus requires a larger tool then those used on autos.  Sometimes, you can break them loose with a couple sharp blows with hammer.  Jack

[robertglines1]

I have a hard hitting air hammer..just leave nut on (about 1/2 way loose) to protect against accidental slip to protect thread and use pointed bit in center of stud..the hannering action breaks the taper fit loose.............my way-- not necessarly the right way......Bob

[zubzub]

The old school way is to hit the yoke (around the taper) with a sledge at the same time as providing some (not tons) of downwards pressure, the yoke deforms for a split second under the shock and the taper slips out.  On Cars i always have used a brass hammer to avoid marring the yoke, on my bus I just used a small sledge, it popped right out.  In the case of my bus I used a prybar for downward pressure and wacked the yoke a couple of times, no marks and the boot was intact.  The boot is the real reason to do it this way as many of the ball joint/tie rod removers rip the boot.  The only one I know that doesn't is this type,

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html

But of course you would need to pay top dollar to find one big enough for a bus.  Also even this type can mess up the boot when you fit it on.

[trucktramp]

Zub is on the right track but I don't think that puller is large enough to do what you want.  I would recommend you talk to a heavy truck or bus mechanic and see what he uses and what tool truck it came off of.  If you talk to the Matco/SnapOn/Cornwall/Mac tool man he can steer you in the right direction and usually will take back the tool if it is the wrong one.  Ask the shop guys when the tool man is there or get his phone number.  You will pay more but remember that tools are his business and if he knows what you are trying to do, he can help you get the right tool that will last and has a warranty.  There is a difference between what you get from the tool truck and that imported stuff that you find at "tool sales".  Only you can decide if the extra cost is worth it.  I like to know that when I grab a tool out of my box it will work every time.  Those that don't are replaced. 

Check the Matco catalog puller PA150 or Mac PAS3811 pitman arm puller.  These may work for you.  The tool guy can tell you better.  I have one of these but don't know if it would work for you.  You could also try KD tools or OTC tools they have quite a few different pullers.  Good luck with your search.

[bevans6]

Trucktramp, I did actually go to my neighbour, he said when he was working on heavy trucks he used a pitman arm puller a lot like the PA150, he dug it out and I will see if it fits.  He also gave me a two arm puller to try.  He said the big honking hammer and hit it trick works, he did the joints on a 1 ton van yesterday, but we both allowed that a 6 lb sledge might be more the appropriate hammer than the 2 lb ball pein that he used on the van...

That was the advice I felt I needed - that those tools do actually work, and aren't just wishful thinking...  I will get the wheels off tomorrow and see if they even fit, and go from there!

Thanks, Brian

[trucktramp]

Oh ya, the puller will work and it shouldn't tear the rubber boot.  That's worth the price of the tool alone.  You may have to whack the joint with a hammer a few times but it will pull it apart.  The first time I used my puller one of the yahoos that was "helping" kept telling me that I needed a boot.  The look on his face was priceless when the joint popped apart with a loud "thunk" and the boot was perfect.  Man, I just love having the tool to do the job right and to do it the easy way.

[bevans6]

My neighbour said he just put the puller on, hit it with the impact wrench and let it rattle till it came apart!  well, it's his tool and he is from the flat-rate-get-it-done-now school of professional mechanic-ing, so I guess I can take his advice.  Turning out to be a good neighbour to have, he's even worked on Detroit's!  Only downside is his habit of arriving home at 1 in the morning on his Harley with no mufflers, but he's getting to old to do that very often now...

Brian