Shower Install

[pickpaul]

I may need to install a shower in a bus. The current bus I'm looking at is an entertainer format with a rear lounge (feeling good about converting it into a bedroom) but no shower though there is a large closet opp the bathroom that would be perfect for putting one in.

My friend who installs showers professionally has offered to install one with me if I buy the bus but he wanted me to ask you wise busnuts if there is anything he should know that would be different than a house install.

I explained that in terms of plumbing all we needed to do was run PEX lines and a drain to the grey tank which seems simple but he was more concerned about tiling.

Because of the odd dimensions of the closet, he suggested boxing in with plywood and then using ceramic tiling. Is there a specific type of adhesive or grout to stop the tiles from being shaken off with the bus vibration and flexing?

Any tips from those that have been down that road could save us a lot of headaches!

Thanks in advance guys. Paul.

[robertglines1]

raised roof ?

[Melbo]

I used thinset ( was told that it would not work ) with a bladder (or liner) behind the concrete board and then epoxy grout (be sure this is something you have done before) and I have driven over 30 thousand miles with no problem. Someone who has done tile work would have no problem doing an install. I also used large tiles (12 and 18 inch) to avoid additional joints.

HTH

YMMV

Melbo

[gus]

Shower, toilet and wash basin are much more useful if they are in separate compartments.

[H3Jim]

Make sure there is room underneath for the drain pipe to run.  It has to dodge the suspension and bus chassis parts.  Probably ok, but look and measure first.

[Dave5Cs]

Pal;

Tell him to use at least a PVC liner for the Pan and wired mud bed using  latex in the mix with rubber corners solvent welded and a 2 inch curb. Go with standard Stainless steel drain. Wall mud the most latex additive he can get away with and use a Flex bond modified mortar Thinset over either a liner or wonderboard, or same wired mud bed.

Epoxy Grout like was mentioned above.
Also on the drain Jack Conrad mentioned a deverter valve for the drain because that is where a lot of Gray water comes from to fill your tanks up quick.

Dave

[Joe Camper]

1 thing different from home instalation is the trap will be in the basement not directly under the basin

[H3Jim]

And for what itws worth, I just put plywood on the walls, cement board (wonder board) over that.  I just used regular thinset and grout.  I used a regular commercial shower pan.  I did that several years ago and have not had any issues. No leaking, no cracking - bettter than my home shower was.  So I'm not sure how necessary it is to do all the special epoxies and backflips.

[TomC]

I used a Kohler 36" x 36" shower pan that has the drain in one corner since the shower is on the up slope of the floor to the engine compartment (slight slope that isn't obtrusive).  The pan is not attached to the floor, but have 3/4" plywood walls screwed to the upper wall lips of the pan.  I lined it with Chemlite (which is a bit industrial looking) then used silicone sealer-has worked well for 14 years.  Much lighter then using tile (remember you have to pay to haul what you put in).  Good Luck, TomC

[Dave5Cs]

Jim;

Hopefully you used a moisture barrier between your Plywood and wonder-board so molds will not grow on your plywood surface. Wonder-board is not water proof, FWIW

The rest is not back flips really, it is just taking the extra steps to insure you don't have problems. ccepted industry practices, Bu I guess yours is doing good. Good for you.

Dave

[H3Jim]

Yes, moisture barrier, and taped the seams.  The shower does not get a lot of use, and the water pressure is failry low, so I am not worried at all.  I also had put a coat of urethane on the plywood, edges too.  Neither the plywood nor the cement board goes down to touch the base, it is sealed via caulk so as not to wick up any moisture.  I have been doing showers and baths etc in my rentals since 1974.  I have a first hand knowledge of what works, what does not as I get to redo my mistakes.

[Melbo]

I used wonder board or whatever it is called (not durock) and attached it directly to metal studs which I had cut in half so the wall was thinner and I cut the floor pan out of one sheet criss crossed through the middle and shimmed up about 3/8 inch at each edge with the drain in the middle and pressed into thinset with all corners and cuts sealed with mesh and thinset. I used a vinyl liner under and behind the wonder board and up the walls and over the threshold. The walls set down on the floor to hold it in place with no screws piercing the liner below the 3 inch mark. I set all the tile in thinset with latex additive. Then I used the epoxy grout --- once again you have to have experience with this -- don't know how important this is but I did it and have not had any problems in over 30 thousand miles. Something more or less could probably be done but I don't have experience with that only what I have done.

HTH

YMMV

Melbo

[Zeroclearance]

If you are going to tile your shower, this is a VERY good system.

http://www.schluter.com/8_4_kerdi_shower_kit.aspx

It gives you a waterproof bed that is lightweight and a membrane to prevent leaks.

What is nice is you can move the pan around to place your drain where you need it.

[pickpaul]

Wow, thanks guys. I'll forward a link to this thread to my friend.