Drive Axle with Aluminum on the out side Steel on the inside.
 

Drive Axle with Aluminum on the out side Steel on the inside.

Started by johns4104s, July 29, 2009, 08:07:16 PM

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johns4104s



I just got of the phone with a experience trucker, he brought up the fact that there very well could be problems with studs shearing with the  dissimilar metals, Aluminum on the out side and steel on the inside. Any thoughts from you guys?

Thanks

John

TomC

Most bus axle housings are all cast iron. Aluminum housings are typically used only on trucks for weight savings.  So your experienced trucker is correct-but just for truck axles.  I believe you'll see once underneath that your axle is all cast iron. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

luvrbus

Tom, John is talking about the wheels I think right.
John I have bought new trucks from Peterbuilt that came with steel wheels on the inside and aluminum on the outside and never had that problem.     

good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

Dreamscape

John, A lot of guys run that way, besides it would take a bunch of years for anything to go wrong. The shearing was caused by metal fatigue of many years of abuse and over torquing.

Paul
______________________________________________________

Our coach was originally owned by the Dixie Echoes.

gumpy

Quote from: Dreamscape on July 30, 2009, 01:05:42 AM
John, A lot of guys run that way, besides it would take a bunch of years for anything to go wrong. The shearing was caused by metal fatigue of many years of abuse and over torquing.

Paul

Or loose nuts.
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

DaveG

Should be no problem with alum outers and steel inners, just use the correct inner nuts, they are longer on the treaded part for the alum wheels and do not have a boss area that goes into the inner wheel, just the taper for centering. Dis-similar metals is not gonna be an issue here.

You are correct, trucking has been doing this for a long, long time, and it is not related to steel or alum hubs.

If you need part numbers for the inner nuts, let me know and I'll get them for you.

RJ

1992 Prevost XL Vantaré Conversion M1001907 8V92T/HT-755 (DDEC/ATEC)
2003 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagon "Towed"
Cheney WA (when home)

kyle4501

If Alum wheel is sufficiently over-torqued, the tapered nut seat will distort. Usually this distortion effectively reduces the thickness which leads to difficulty in keeping the nuts tight - which leads to more over-tightening which leads to . . . . .


If you're having problems with lug nuts & studs, the cause could be:
1- damaged hardware (from overtorque or even stud installation abuse)
2- bad/ cheap or otherwise incorrect hardware (studs or nuts)
3- damaged nut seat in rim
4- wrong brake drum?
5- wrong wheel


I hope youe wheel issues are behind you & smooth travels lie ahead.  ;D
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

Sean

Alcoa sells a dielectric spacer that should be used between steel and aluminum wheels to prevent damage from electrolysis.  I use them between my duals; many folks also prefer to use them between the steel brake drum and the aluminum wheel on singles.

Many of us with hub-piloted wheels have no choice but to run steel inners, because the pilot lands are often not long enough to engage dualed aluminum wheels (mine are not).

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com
Full-timing in a 1985 Neoplan Spaceliner since 2004.
Our blog: http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com