Differencial yoke nut torque?

[JohnEd]

Everything The Warrior said. I have a 1 inch that needs the 1/2 inch hose and the shop has one from Harbor Freight that says  3/8 inch is sufficient.  I would give that Bad Boy all the air I could.

John

[gus]

John Ed is absolutely correct, the whole point of my posts. Why try to grunt out 600lb-ft when you can do 60?

However, the torque on the breaker bar will still be 600 so that is a really good argument for a 1" breaker.

JS,

I would weld a nut to the end of the pipe and use a socket on the TW.

[boogiethecat]

Funny, when I changed the rear axle on my Crown after driving it for 25000 miles (in order to install a newer axle that would be compatible with the Telma retarder I was about to install), I removed that nut with my fingers!! Definitely not 1000 ft lbs or even a few inch pounds!!!
Amazing it kept going without issue!!
Well.....

[JohnEd]

The failures I have experienced have been that the yoke gets all the splines reamed out.  I am told this takes a long time but is inevitable if the nut doesn't eliminate relative movement.  The bright side is they saw the failure coming and made the yoke out of soft iron and it reams out easily and never touches the hardened splined shaft.  Still leaves you stuck though.

This was fun!

John

[gus]

Since this nut determines the pinion bearing preset it is amazing that a loose one wouldn't wipe out both pinion and ring gear teeth?

I have a Jeep with rounded off pinion and ring gear teeth from just that very thing. However, improper gear lash will do the same thing so it could be either.

[luvrbus]

Gus, if JC's pinion is like an Eagle with the Rockwell it is a saddle mounted pinion the nut has nothing to do with preset it all done with the flange and shims.On Eagles and MCI 5's we don't have a yoke only a gear with a nut that we tighten with a impact gun works for us and I bet a buck he has a saddle mount pinion     good luck

[lostagain]

Update: I just installed the yoke nut this morning on the diff., and the output shaft nut on the trans. (replaced the oil seal there too). I applied red thread locker, then put them on with the impact wrench. By the way, there is no "gear slapping" while hammering away. I held the yoke while pulling the trigger, and the gears in the diff. or the trans. don't even touch each other. I finished with a breaker bar that I pulled with a come-along attached to a beam near the air bags. That was a lot easier than I feared! I indexed the nut relative to the yoke with a Dremel cutting wheel, so I can visually check once in a while that the nut hasn't moved. Meanwhile, I am putsing along at my engine overhaul. It all takes time, because I have other things in my life, like 2 teen-aged sons, my wife that cannot drive since she had a seizure at Christmas, helping with her Paint Horse operation, overseing a business, etc, etc... But I'll get it back together by Spring. I need the bus to take my sons to their dirt bike races. And I'd like to make it to Bus'nUSA in Rickreal, OR again this year.

Thanks again guys,

JC