Main Menu

Recent posts

#41
Quote from: Jim Blackwood on July 14, 2026, 06:21:58 AMSeb, with your roof collectors You're halfway there already since the air space between those and the roof will take off some of the heat load from the direct sun.

Jim

Just for giggles I just shot the temp if my roof under the panel and in direct sun.  9 degrees cooler under the panels  😁

Seb
#42
Quote from: Jim Blackwood on July 14, 2026, 06:21:58 AMSeb, with your roof collectors You're halfway there already since the air space between those and the roof will take off some of the heat load from the direct sun.

Jim

Yes, I hope that offers some shade benefit.  I wonder though, since the panels are black.  I guess I should shoot some spots with them gun on some of these hot days and see.

Seb
#43
Find a star drive with a socket adapter that does not quite fit and a small impact gun. Drive the star bit in tight. Remove with impact.
#44
Seb, with your roof collectors You're halfway there already since the air space between those and the roof will take off some of the heat load from the direct sun.

Jim
#45
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Broken air fitting
Last post by 64MCI - July 13, 2026, 05:24:43 PM
Hello,

In my attempt to diagnose if my relay valve is bad or if it's a dd3 diaphragm, I've broken an air line fitting. Anybody have ideas on how to remove the threaded end before I break something worse?

20260713_172441.jpg

Thanks,
Jed
#46
Keep Your Coach on the Road with C&J Bus Repair
When Your Bus Needs Expert Care, Trust the Professionals.

Whether you're preparing for your next cross-country adventure or keeping your coach in top condition, C&J Bus Repair has the experience to keep you rolling with confidence.

From routine maintenance to complete engine and transmission replacements, their factory-trained technicians service virtually every make and model of motorcoach, bus conversion, and RV. As an authorized warranty center for MCI, Prevost, and Temsa, they have the knowledge and equipment to tackle jobs large and small.

Need Parts? They've Got Those Too!

Looking for that hard-to-find component? C&J maintains an extensive inventory of new, remanufactured, and quality used bus parts—often at prices lower than OEM sources. And if they don't have it in stock, they'll work to locate it quickly and get you back on the road.

Services Include:

Engine & transmission repair
Preventive maintenance
Electrical troubleshooting
Suspension & brake service
Federal annual bus inspections
Bus conversion & RV service
New, remanufactured & used bus parts
One Call. One Shop. Thousands of Parts. Decades of Experience.

Whether you're a full-time bus converter, entertainer coach owner, charter operator, or weekend traveler, C&J Bus Repair is committed to getting you back on the road safely and quickly.

C&J Bus Repair
Bloomington, Minnesota
📞 (800) 228-7349
🌐 https://www.cjbusrepair.net
#47
This seated 1993 MCI 102-C3 has sold.

https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/sold-buses/

If you have a bus to sell, we can help you sell it by listing it on our website for just $99.00 until it sells.

To list your bus for sale, simply click on this link and fill out the online form:  https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/bcmclassifieds/ or email Gary@BusConversionMagazine.com with your classified info, or call the office at the phone number at the bottom of our website.

Please note: We post these notes as a service to our readers and paid advertisers that support this Forum, which is solely supported by subscriptions and display advertisers, as well as Classified ads.

This Forum does not allow individual posting of buses for sale.
#48
Just to add $0.02, I used Napa part number "ECH SL134" which is described as a "stoplight switch". It is designed to sense pressure in the hydraulic brake system, which works perfectly here. I paid $15 in 2026 dollars.

The existing wiring was a little crispy and crumbly, so I ran a new 2-wire circuit to the rear junction box which is only about 4 feet away (this is an MC8). One side of the sensor is connected to ground, which I picked up here inside the junction box.

I had to crimp on some standard 1/4-inch "bullet" connectors, as the old harness female ends seemed to be a slightly different (larger) size which didn't snug down onto the new sensor very well.

Then I crafted a new boot out of shrink tubing, not shrunk with heat but tightened into place with zip ties in the hopes of some protection from water and grime.

Voila!
#49
Use a good full synthetic grease and it won't cake and harden and the place you are greasing will always take grease 
#50
Well, I couldn't take it.  I took the zerk off and shoved a drill bit up there a dug out all the old grease that I could, then I shot some kroil up there.  I let it sit a while and put some kroil in the zerk.  I hit it again with the grease gun and it worked. 

I'll let it work a while and hit it again with some fresh grease. 

How often do you think I should grease this. 

It is our permanent home, so it does get pretty regular use.

Thanks

Seb