Recent posts

#31
When strength, reliability, and durability matter, professionals turn to Byler Rivet Supply. For more than 45 years, Byler Rivet has been supplying top-quality rivets, fasteners, tooling, and repair services to industries that can't afford failure. From bus and RV conversions to truck, trailer, rail, and manufacturing applications, they have the products and expertise to help you get the job done right the first time.

Whether you're installing body panels, repairing compartments, fastening flooring, or tackling a complete conversion project, Byler Rivet stocks an extensive selection of blind rivets, solid rivets, Huck fasteners, rivet nuts, threaded inserts, rivet guns, and tooling from the industry's most trusted brands. Same-day shipping and expert technical support mean less downtime and more time on the road.

Don't settle for hardware-store fasteners when your project deserves professional-grade results.

Byler Rivet Supply
Quality Fasteners. Expert Support. Proven Performance.

Visit: Byler Rivet Supply
Call: 800-325-3147
https://bylerrivet.com/



#32
Quote from: KF6-BusFan on May 10, 2026, 11:03:42 AMDid you get to the bottom of this?  The DD3 air chamber needs air supplied to what they call the "locking port" in order to unlock the brakes. This comes from the inversion valve, which is commanded by your push/pull parking valve.

The locking mechanism inside the air chamber is a sort of ratchet, so sometimes after applying "lock" air to unlock the lock, you have to pulse the main brake application air, to push the rod out briefly and then allow it to retract.

While working on mine, on the bench, I would test by applying air from a compressor/tank to the lock port, and every time the rod would just retract using the internal spring. But when installed, sometimes I have to pulse the brake pedal.

Hope that helps.

Hey guys,

Well I've kind of fixed it, the bus is now building air and not stopping at ~100psi, everything is doing what it's supposed to do.  The only issue is I don't know exactly what fixed it. What I do know is I had a bunch of deferred maintenance that all lead to this, and I'm slowly (and expensively) fixing it. 

What I THINK was most likely the cause of the issue was actually the air dryer.  I'm embarrassed to say this but in almost 20 years of owning this coach I have never changed the air dryer cartridge.  Why, you ask, would I be dumb enough not to do this?  Honestly because I didn't know I was supposed to.  I don't come from a bus mechanic/driver/enthusiast background, I bought this bus as a 27 year old kid who had spent exactly 1 night RV'ing prior to buying the coach.  So, to say I've learned a lot about busses over the years would be an understatement, but I just had not yet learned about the air system and maintenance.  When I had the oil changed I would ask them to check the brakes and air system, and they would always say they're good, but I didn't take the time to learn it myself until now. 

So, all that to say I've done a lot of work:

- I've (so far) gone thru 3 axles, brake and air systems (passenger drive axle, driver and passenger front axles), changed seals, brake pads, drum and brake chamber on the passenger drive axle, front hub caps, air bags and shocks, air relay and air pressure regulator on the drive axle, check valve that I think had failed on the rear air tank, deleted the air system on the AC belt tensioner in the engine bay (it had been leaking air - going to eventually get rid of the entire OTR air system and go to a mini split), replaced the governor and unloader valve on the air compressor, and changed the air dryer.

Still need to through the driver side drive axle and both tag axles.  VERY costly and very time consuming, but it needs to be done. 

Thank you all again for all your help, I would have been defeated in the bus game a long time ago if it wasn't for you. 
#33
But we have more buses on our Classified Ad page. We will list your bus for only $99 until it sells.
#34
Quote from: Seann on May 29, 2026, 06:17:22 AMOK...dropped the divider cover and there they were, 3 huge pipes leading to the aux tank. Didn't know I had that tank, the bay if finished with drawers, TV etc. Got the manifold plate undone, lowered the pipes and got the tank out. Next step drain aux tank and remove it and all plumbing, weld up main tank and test. I might even make it smaller. The tank cavity is a real mess too, sludge and rust. Will fab a new hold down strap, old one rusted away. Next calamity on the way???
Thanks for your suggestions,
Seann
The X tank is empty if the main tank is empty it fills and empties with the level of the main tank
#35
Quote from: Seann on May 27, 2026, 05:35:56 AMI've cut the back wall out (driver side) to gain access to the rear of the tank. Having another go today with a board from both sides to try and raise it enough, with come a long pressure pulling from the pass side.
Thanks,
Seann
#36
Sounds good. Get er done!
#37
OK...dropped the divider cover and there they were, 3 huge pipes leading to the aux tank. Didn't know I had that tank, the bay if finished with drawers, TV etc. Got the manifold plate undone, lowered the pipes and got the tank out. Next step drain aux tank and remove it and all plumbing, weld up main tank and test. I might even make it smaller. The tank cavity is a real mess too, sludge and rust. Will fab a new hold down strap, old one rusted away. Next calamity on the way???
Thanks for your suggestions,
Seann
#38
Lions are cool... not sure I'd want one as a pet but definitely cool.

Jim
#39
I've cut the back wall out (driver side) to gain access to the rear of the tank. Having another go today with a board from both sides to try and raise it enough, with come a long pressure pulling from the pass side.
Thanks,
Seann
#40
Not sure what you mean by "the divider"...in the middle underneath?
Thanks,
Seann