Main Menu

Recent posts

#11
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Good Sam's
Last post by luvrbus - August 08, 2026, 03:10:02 PM
If any of you guys have Good Sam's towing insurance they have dropped towing a converted bus from any type commercial bus, I have 2 friends that were dropped and fighting Good Sam's for the return of there money with no luck.I figured it was going to happen since most tow insurance restricts the mileage and to closest repair center and no one will work on a vehicle over 10 years old now except a private owned shop and that doesn't aways work out great for a owner ,If you have Good Sam's you need to check before you pay or need it         
#12
Clean Energy Wins $27.5M OCTA Hydrogen Contract
by ESG News Editorial Team • August 6, 2026
Clean Energy Fuels will design and build a private hydrogen station for Orange County Transportation Authority under a $27.5 million contract.
The facility will support OCTA's expanding hydrogen bus fleet and is scheduled for completion in 2028.
OCTA plans to operate a fully zero-emission bus fleet by 2040, in line with California's clean transit regulations.
Clean Energy Fuels has secured a $27.5 million contract to build a hydrogen fueling station for one of Southern California's largest public transport agencies.

The Orange County Transportation Authority awarded the contract for a private station at its Garden Grove bus base. The facility will support OCTA's expanding fleet of hydrogen fuel cell buses...
#13
To view this bus, click on the link below:

https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/bus_classifieds/

If you have a bus to sell, we can help you list it on our website for just $99.00 until it sells.

To list your bus for sale, simply click on this link and fill out the online form:  https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/bcmclassifieds/ or email Gary@BusConversionMagazine.com with your classified info, or call the office at the phone number at the bottom of our website.

Please note: We post these notes as a service to our readers and paid advertisers that support this Forum, which is solely supported by subscriptions and display advertisers, as well as Classified ads.

This Forum does not allow individual posting of buses for sale.


#14
Thank you Clifford!, Phil
#15
Thanks, maybe they do. I'll get into it more later. Might be just one row came on another way. Might have been when I had the bus running. I've been turning on those lights by plugging a short extension cord into my inside outlets and running it out the side window to plug into the panel but I'm sure there's a better way to do that.

I'll check out that terminal 55, just need to go through the bulkhead and power the bed lift struts. That gets me started on the 12v wiring and there's several things to do there.

Jim
#16
I forget but I think terminal 55 in the rear JB is the only 12v supply in the engine compartment besides the alternator exciter field you can pickup a 12v supply from the Vanner or the cut off switch on the DL3.Both rows of lights should come on when you plug into station lighting,I don't what is going on there   
#17
I have two immediate inquiries.

The first one is two parts. 1) where is a good source for 12vdc power in the engine compartment? and 2nd where can you get 12v power inside the coach? Are there other possibilities than the panel under the driver's window? I still have the overhead bins and associated wiring. Also, I have some wires sticking out of the ceiling that I think might have been courtesy lights or maybe a switch where the bathroom was.

The second inquiry has to do with the florescent interior lighting. This would be 110v right? OK, I know if you plug in a cord to the socket below the driver's side panel on the outside of the bus one row of the lights comes on and there are two rows but I don't want to make this two complicated right away.

Is there an easy way to wire in shore power and a switch or two so that the florescent lights can be switched on from shore power other than running wires to the extension cord socket on the side of the bus? I already have a shore line, breaker panel, and 110v wiring for outlets run inside the bus. Any ideas here? I'd like to make it as convenient as I can. Might consider a 3 way circuit with one switch by the door and one in the bedroom.

Jim
#18
You can try changing the governor on the compressor (20 bucks) that is a easy job on the road,that is only 1/2 of the puzzle the governors controls the unloader valves inside the older compressors. that is more of a job you need to drain the cooling system and remove the compressor head to change those,I never change a governor without changing the unloader valves I keep a case in the shop,Give the governor change a shot 1st you could get lucky and it is easy, a broke control line from the governor to the dryer can cause one to over build PSI too   
#19
Thanks for the suggestions.   It's a pity that dashcam makers don't list the minimum and maximum windshield angles that their cams can work on.   In the meanwhile I have to install the Viofo in my car without damaging the headliner or A-pillar trim!
#20
Good evening fellow bus folks,

We're traveling about the western US in our DL3-45 - 1993.  About a week ago while driving a freeway, our bus suddenly lost power, or so I thought.  I heard a quiet pop, and then our speed rapidly dropped.  I was able to get to the side of the road.  However I noted that all systems were perfect as per the gauges and the engine was running strong.  Further checks showed that the parking brake had been applied, that was the "pop".  Back to gauge checks; they showed our air pressure to be at about 140 on the front tank and 135 on the rear tank.  Never seen that before!!  Too much air, so it applied the parking brake.  Well, I got the pressure down, idled the bus some, and all seemed OK.  So I resumed the journey albeit watching the air pressure gauge.  I noticed that the rear tank was now only showing a very minimal range, say, 116 - 122.  Anytime pressure reached 116, it would fill back up to 122 and the air dryer releases the pressure.  IIRC the pressure would normally start to build up around 100 or so...  it's a bit hard to read the gauge at the lower end.  So starting to build up air at 116 is unusual.  Resuming the journey,  after a few starts at 116, and applying the brakes again, the entire air system resumes normal operation and has no more troubles the rest of that days' travels.  starting at around 100 (not sure here)  and off around 120.  Next day, again starting off, the first few minutes, my range is 116-122, a few brake applications, and then air pressure drops to the normal range.  This is now the pattern.  I do release air from the release valve in the back of the bus (drain daily).  Though, I'm much more consistent after this issue started. 

Is there something I can check while out on the road?  Or a nice, simple ,easy fix?   ;D

Or a maintenance item I need to take care of?

Thank you folks for any input!!

Safe travels, Phil