We are getting ready to foam our bus. We have been taking small steps to getting it converted, while still traveling in it (we did a temporary "weekend" conversion to keep us going, you know, some sofas, bunk beds, fridge, etc). The guy who will spray it is coming out on Saturday to give us a quote.
My question is this: What is the preferred method of grinding the foam down to the desired depth. I have thought of using a sharpened length of angle iron and using that to scrape it down, but I don't know for sure.
I think some of you have been around the block a few times, so bring it on! I have read all I can find in old BCM, but I though you guys might have additional insight. After foaming it we will cover the walls with 5/8" plywood.
Thanks in advance,
God bless,
John
I used a 9" grinder with a 24 grit grinding disk. It was quick and left a very smooth surface. If using this method, you MUST wear eye and respiratory protection. Jack
John,
5/8 plywood is heavy! My preferred plan is to run furring strips at right angles to the metal ribs, then use thin paneling over them. If you put the furring strips up before foaming you'll get an extra 3/4" of insulation, a real good thermal break, no condensation etc. I used 2" wide strips of cabinet grade 3/4 plywood for my furring strips with the furring on 8" centers. Plenty of support for cabinets etc from the furring and 3/16" paneling for the wall surface is plenty rigid. I primed the paneling and put vinyl wallpaper over it.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Fred put some good ideas on the net. Except extension cords for wireing is a bad idea!! Some refer to foaming. Gumpy has a nice site also, but I can never find it.
http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe.htm
I like Jerry's idea but did not want togive up 1 1/2 inch of coach. However If my choices were 3/4 furring or 5/8 plywood, I would go with the furring!!
Did anybody mention, covering the framework with masking tape or oil befor foaming?
For trimming the foam I actually used Jacks grinder and disc!!! very messy job, respirator and safety glasses are a must!! HTH Jim
Here's Craig's site.
http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/
John; I have watched the trailer mfg like Fruehauf and Wabash trim the foam and they use a tool that is flexable about 3 ft long with teeth on it and can trim a 53 ft trailer in a couple of hours, if you have a dealer close to you may be worth looking into. (they used hot foam)
FWIW 5/8 plywood weighs 48 lbs per sheet I would consider using something else another item to watch for that was pointed out is to not let the foam get between the siding and the frame steel (seal it someway) it will cause it to wave if you are not careful
have a great day
Alright here is the explanation why we were going with 5/8. We ordered our windows from Peninsula for 5/8 thickness on the wall (you know the outer ring is over the plywood, kinda like a sandwich). We were told that the 5/8 would provide good rigidity and strength. Maybe that was a dumb idea (if so, it is the first of many I'm afraid). I wonder if we could use the 5/8 around the windows and then fur the rest out to match?...Ideas???
Somebody want to comment on the prepping. We were going to caulk ALL of the ribs to prevent panning flex. Tape everything that we don't want sprayed. And I think I have read that the ribs need to be oiled...Right?
What does the 8 in. on center mean if we furred it out. Does that mean horizontaly and vertically or just vertically. I would assume vertically. If that is the case how do you attach them. Maybe I am not picturing the right idea??? Any more comments???
Whew, and this is just the beginning!!!
Thanks,
God bless,
John
PS The websites were great.
I wouldn't be afraid to use the 5/8ths plywood, I used 3/4 inch thruout my bus. I wanted the strength, remember that a lot of your interior hangs off the walls or uses the walls for support, those have to be strong and not prone to flexing. Buses were designed to carry a good payload, figure around 50 people and their luggage, when we set them up for conversions we can approach the load they were designed to carry but I can't say as I've seen too many of them exceed it. As a thought, have you checked Bontragers for windows, they have a huge inventory of new surplus RV windows made by Hehr, I got thermopane sliders with screens in the size I needed for 20 bucks each, they got a good selection of sizes and styles, would be a big savings if they had the ones you need, not sure where your located but they are in White Pigeon Michigan, about 12 miles outside of Elkhart Indiana. They also have a lot of clamp rings so the thinkness of your walls can be worked with.
Thanks Cody!!!
I don't feel like it was such a dumb choice now. ;D ;D ;D
No really, thanks for all of the input. I think we will probably mix some of the furring and some of the straight 5/8.
Thanks again,
God bless,
John
john I added some info to my post about the windows.
Quote from: John316 on October 23, 2008, 05:39:03 PM
And I think I have read that the ribs need to be oiled...Right?
We taped our ribs with masking tape. After the faom set up, we used a flat pry bar to hook into the foam and pull it off the ribs (the tape came off with the foam). Jack
Cody, I guess I wasn't clear enough. We have the windows already. The five in the front are duel pane, energy efficient, T-sliders. The two in the back are the same except a little smaller and full sliders. The clamp rings that you mention sound interesting. I will look into those. Sounds like you got a great deal on your windows. Too bad we live to far away from them :(. I really like all of your info. Keep it up!!!
Jack, I like that idea. We will try that. Thanks!!!
God bless,
John
Although my walls are not sprayed in, I did use 1x3 firring strips vertical on 16 inch centers. This worked out very well as I started in the rear and went forward. I then used foam board from HD and went flush to the firring strips. I taped all cracks and seams using foil tape! Worked very well and didn't cost all that much! Probably not near as good of insulating factor as sprayed foam but when your building it yourself and out of work at the time, you do what you have to to get er' done!
Ace
ace hi ,how many layers of foam board did you end up using to fill it out to the strips,and how thick were the sheets ,thanks,Van
Van my side walls we're factory sprayed and after I stripped the original walls out and firred it, I then used 2 inch thick foam and that brought it to just flush with inside of the firring so then I came back with a 3/4 inch foam board to bring it flush with the outside edge of the strip. After it was all sealed with foil tape I installed 3/8 plywood from ceiling to floor. 3/8 has been more than sturdy enough for my cabinets and such. You can push against the wall anywhere and it doesn't move! Like I said...on a budget at the time and trying to do what would work for me here in Florida. I DO know it is VERY soundproof and warm when needed not to mention cool when hot outside!
Ace
BS, what about squeaks when you are driving? Seems like the foam sheets would rub and squeak a lot. Inquiring minds want to know. ;D
God bless,
John
Squeeks? Well to be honest, I have NEVER heard any squeeks! My bus appears to be pretty solid and although I only have about a dozen trips, I have yet to have anything come loose or move and litterally no noises including squeeks!
Ace
Thanks I was just wondering, because I have noticed sheet foam will squeak if it is rubbed with something. Obviously you did a good job with you conversion!!!
Thanks again,
God bless,
John
John, I used 1/8 inch felt weatherstripping along the metal behind the plywood, it offered a thermal break between metal and wood and it totally eliminated any tendancy for the plywood or foam to squeak.
Excellent idea Cody!!! Thanks. We will implement this.
Thanks again,
God bless,
John
For what it's worth I have done exactly what you are wanting to do. It all went very well. Sprayed the walls from the inside, used a grinder with a saw blade to even it out ( hang on tightly) and then lined with 5/8 plywood. In my opion it went well and I don't have to worry about where to mount things on the walls. I then bought vinyl and glued in over the plywood. I made a nice solid, well isulated wall that looks good.
Good Luck
Forgot to mention, no squeaking. I think the guys that are getting the sqeaking maybe the ones whom have tried to cut foa insulation to fit ion their walls, the spray in , in my opion is the way to go.
Have fun!
Busshawg with all due respect, I would have to disagree.My bus has NO squeeks and here is a pic of how I applied the foam boards!
Ace
Ace nice clean job,thats what I'm talking about.Question though? on the walls did you run the ferring strips horizontally across the walls?thanx, Van
Van the firring strips run vertical. Everywhere you see foil tape going vertical is a firring strip. 16 inch on center!
Ace
John,
I had a friend on this board many years ago. He spray foamed his bus and then ground it down. He was assured that the foam is nontoxic and that he could get away with just a simple dust mask. A few months after doing that job he started having respiratory problems. He doctored and limped through a couple years and nobody could determin his problem other than he was a sick puppy. He eventually found that he had inhaled "fine dust" from the grinding and that stuff was permanently inside him and screwing up the function of his lungs. What they meant when they told him he didn't have anything to worry about from grinding was the use of a very course grinder that rips of small chunks of foam. He used a grinding/course sanding wheel that made "dust". It ruined his life and we all know how much good health is valued by Bus Knuts. Be vary careful my friend and any vent. system that pushes the dust out of the bus in front of you is a superb idea...fan blowing in the window at the rear and work to the front.
FWIW,
John
My bus has an 'inner skin' of steel sheet welded over all the body framing below the windows; between this and the outer skin is old-style fibreglass roof insulation, which I'm sure isn't ideal for a motorhome but I'm not about to cut all the steel sheet off in order to change it. How much of a problem 'only' having this fibreglass insulation will be I'm not sure.
I can at least insulate the roof properly as here the framing is exposed in the normal way - but because only the roof can be done I'm not sure whether organising someone to come and spray foam is the best option, especially as I shall be running all the electrical cabing through the roof space, plus I need space for fresh air ducting, light fittings etc. Is foam still the right option here or would I would be better off installing modern multi-layer foil insulation? I've never used the foil stuff before, but as I understand it it is vastly better than either fibreglass or polyurethene foam, and could be fitted in such a way that areas could be removed in future to access electrical trunking etc.
Is this a good idea, or should I go the conventional route of sprayed foam? Also, should I be worrying about my fibreglass-insulated walls?
Jeremy
Jeremy I far from an expert on insulating but to my knowledge the home type fiberglass insulation is bad if it gets wet. It just does no good what so ever so make sure you have no leaks of any kind that will allow the insulation to get wet. As far as the ceiling goes? I would run all the wiring you need to run before you have it sprayed. If you want to insulate in a matter such as what I did on my walls, (which I didn't do on my ceiling because it was factory sprayed), yes you can remove the panels at a later time to run wires, cables, ducting etc.. Will it do the same job as sprayed foam? Not for me to say as I said, I'm no expert but what I do know is, anything is better than nothing at all!
Ace
John, thanks for very important reminder. I feel badly for your friend, but we will heed the advice that he didn't. We have the big ugly respirators. You know the kind that has a couple of big ugly round filters on them, and when you put them on you feel like you have asthma :D :D :D, yup that's the ones alright that we will use. I also like your vent idea.
busshawg, thanks for the tips.
Ace I like the pics. You did a great job.
Thanks for the advice.
God bless,
John
I screwed 1x2 fir strips 90 degree to the metal uprights and roof bows. Then had 2.25" of foam sprayed in (nasty job-one that I will ALWAYS have done for me). I covered the walls with 1/4" plywood and the ceiling with 1/8" since it bends to the contour of the roof. With the 1x2's under, and 1x3 ash strips screwed to the ceiling where my overhead cabinets are, I can add to the walls or ceilings if I want, or take apart since everything is screwed. I covered the walls with gray outdoor carpet and painted the ceiling white with oak strips covering the 1x2's. Is very effective-only need two roof top A/C's in 107 degree weather. Good Luck, TomC
Tom,
Thanks. That is amazing about how insulated your coach is. Right now with very little insulation, it takes five roof airs to cool our bus now!!! I can say that will definitely be changing with a little insulation.
God bless,
John
8)
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John,
Ednj has the right tool. Not intuitive is it?
Note that Ed's walls have metal at the top of the foam. These points will "sweat" in really cold temps and create problems and also be a heat and cold sync. Put firing strips up and fill to the top of the wood firing. Also, drill small holes in those steel braces and have the foam guy squirt a shot of foam into the brace to stop convection air flow inside the brace. Hole every ten inches will do and it doesn't take a lot of "squirt". The foamer will know. Buy a drill Dr.
Fiber glass batting gets wet from the wall sweating inside the wall. once wet it will stay that way for a long time. Being wet it will not insulate worth a darn. I hope you decide to foam the walls and just make that happen. Otherwise just glue an inch of foam board to the inside walls and give up the room dimension. No much of a choice I imagine.
Good luck with your project and, by the way, my friend DID heed the best advice he could get at the time....Professional applicators, EPA, the mfr and others that had done the job and some of that info came from this board. It wasn't anybodies fault just bad communication. Even if he had said he would use sand paper on the disc I don't think anyone had any bad experience that was being floated around as an anecdote. He was unfortunate, not careless, and it was a Prevost he was working on and he was making the stock foam an inch deeper for max insulation. Firing strips!
John
What I did to help prevent any sweating was to spray undercoating on all bare steel or aluminum, then covered it with 1 1/2" roof type foam board. Furred it out with 1x2 8" OC horizontally, then fit 3/4" foil two sides insulation board between the furring strips. I only used fiberglass insulation on the curved portion of the roof and caps. Covered the walls and ceiling with 3/8" plywood. I installed oak furring strips where I think my cabinets would go. Painted to outside roof with Kool Seal from HD. I did this when I lived in SoCal and noticed about a 20 degree drop in temp on the inside with no A/C on. I have not noticed any squeaking at all.
If I would have had the money I would have sprayed it, like others have done. But living in a warmer climate it's not really that noticeable with the way I did it. ;)
It's really all about how you want to do it and how much you can afford to get the results you want.
HTH,
Paul
John, one thing to take in consideration when using any type foam, sheets or spray is the chemical compound in it.My wife has a low chemical tolerance for any type chemicals and this may not be a problem for you or your wife.We had to use a special foam on our house outside for the stucco passing on info just in case one of you have a problem with chemicals, and FWIW foam will lose it's R valve as years pass plus some foams are nasty for years good luck
Regarding wet fibreglass insulation as mentioned by a couple of people - I've taken that point on board. Because my insulation was installed by the factory and is behind steel I don't know if it is wet or not, other than it seemed to be dry in the areas where I have cut into the wall where the slide-outs will be installed.
Someone mentioned drilling holes inside the framework and squirting foam inside - presumably I could drill into my walls and fill the space up with foam the same way? This hadn't occured to me before as I thought the foam had to be 'sprayed', but if it can be 'injected' as well then that might be the answer. I guess this is the same as the way insulation can be injected into cavity walls in a house. I would be extremely worried about the foam expanding and distorting the outer skin of the bus however - I know the sort of expanding foam sold in aerosol cans has more than enough power to do this, and presumably the professional stuff is the same. It would be a disaster if the bus ended up looking like a hungry horse in reverse (ie. bodywork bulging out between the ribs).
No-one has mentioned the multi-layer foil stuff yet - anyone got any advice on using that?
Jeremy
Hey guys,
Thanks. I am actually waiting for a call from the gentleman that is going to foam our bus. He is coming out today to give a quote.
EDnj, thanks for the pics!!! I like your tool idea!!!
JohnEd, Good advice. Thanks for the point on drilling the holes in the supports. Are you saying that we should fir out the whole bus so the foam covers the supports? I really appreciate your advice. I'm sorry about your friend and thanks for the warning.
Luvrbus, I'm not exactly sure what else we would use other than foam. Good point on the chemical tolerances.
Thanks for all of the comments. I REALLY appreciate them!!!
God bless,
John
I insulated mine pretty similar to the way Ace did his. The interior of the outside walls are framed using 1x3 and 2x2 on 16" centers in standard home building format. All spaces were filled in with at least 2" of rigid foam board (the RTS has curved exterior walls, so in the middle there is a lot more thickness of foam board). Gaps were filled using the canned spray foam. Then I used 7/16" OSB, and then finished with standard wall paneling.
The ceiling has 2.75" of rigid foam topped with paneling. The floor was framed with 2x2's on 24" centers on top of the original floor and filled with 1.5" of rigid foam board and topped with 3/4" Advantek TIG subflooring. Interior divider walls are standard 2x4 home style construction.
I haven't noticed any squeaks while in motion. Everything is very solid and the walls can support virtually any attachment. The only thing I would do differently at this point would be to go with 16" centers in the floor framing. The Advantek subfloor does tend to creak a little when walked on, especially at cooler temperatures.
We full time in it and last winter it got down as low as 13° and our two little Wally World electric heaters kept it 70° inside. The insulation is less successful in the summer, but still, when you consider that we currently only have 11,000 BTU of air conditioning, it does pretty well.
One thing to remember about the stock insulation in a bus is the intended usage of the bus. They were designed to be used with the engine running and supplying very powerful HVAC. My RTS for example had a 10 Ton capacity air conditioning system (that's about 120,000 BTU iirc) and I don't know that rating of the heating system, but it was able to heat the bus in just minutes once the engine was warmed up. My point is, the designers and builders weren't too worried about highly effective insulation.
Jeremy - try this - HTH
http://www.industrialinsulation.com/slow_rise_foam.htm
John,
If the ribs and metal framing are in contact with the paneling you will have hot and cold spots. The firing strips, as Ace, mentioned, give you an additional foam depth equal to the thickness of the strip. The strip also affords you anchor points for everything you attach to the walls and overhead. Roof insulation is more critical than walls or floor. Many "drop"the ceiling a couple inches and make it a straight horizontal surface. That makes fitting cabnets and walls easier and gives you important additional thickness of insulation in the roof. It also affords you a space to install cable chases and ducts.
If you install firing or not, contract with the foam sprayer to "trim" the job. They do that also and have the tools and skills. As Paul said though....it all is a matter of your budget. I have read many post about guys that had their interior trimmed by providing a case of beer...work with these people and ALWAYS get a couple bids. That is required by law in the Fed procurement process. Multiple bids!!!!! Then choose the lowest bid from "qualified" bidders. Be sure and find out what kind of foam these birds are going to spray cause there is stuff out there that you do not want. Others will have to clarify that for you....Nick or Gumpy dog or Ace or?
The force that expanding foam creates is HUGE. No flat panel will escape being deformed. Don't ask how I know that but it cost me a $grand. Curved surfaces "should" stand up to it but I would be hesitant to try. Don't forget the $1K part.
Filling the metal rib stops convection flow inside the rib and most importantly it prevents condensation from forming and draining to the floor level. MCI ribs are often rusted at the bottom of the rib inside the wall and that condensation contributes to that problem.
HTH,
John
Great!!! Today, we met the guy who is going to squirt our foam. Great guy, lots of skill, excellent references, and good price. We scheduled him to come out a week from Tuesday. The foam is a closed cellulose, latex system (I think). We are diffidently going to put extra on the roof.
We won't be able to hire him to "trim" the bus (too bad, but somehow money isn't there...it doesn't grow on trees around here ;D ;D ;D). We also will make sure everything is sealed so no foam can get behind things and ripple our brand new skinning. It shouldn't be a big deal since everything can expand to the front, since we, obviously, haven't put our plywood up. Good idea on the filling the ribs a little.
Hightechredneck, does that mean that you only have one roof air, 11,000 btus? I was wondering because that didn't sound like much.
Thanks,
God bless,
John
Quote from: John316 on October 25, 2008, 07:02:15 PM
Hightechredneck, does that mean that you only have one roof air, 11,000 btus? I was wondering because that didn't sound like much.
Thanks,
God bless,
John
Actually, for now, it's two window units that add up to 11,000 btu (6500 in front, 5500 in back). I put them in as a temporary solution for the construction phase, but their service has been extended until the budget supports getting a more effective and aesthetic solution. It ain't pretty, but there have been quite a few priorities that came before pretty.
Hi John316,
I have not heard of "...closed cellulose, latex system..." foam. Do you know what the R-value of it is per inch?
Thanks, Sam 4106
I have not insulated my coach yet and find this to be a good discussion. I asked Don at R&M about foam deforming siding. He said a light coat on walls before filling ( piss coat if you will). I was planing on using material like handi foam or tiger foam any thoughts? We live in Wells NV and don't have a lot of choice for vendors unless we travel to SLC.
John
I have not heard of commercial latex foam either. The technology may have changed though. The commercial foam was a heated polyurethane which has a carcinogenic vapor, until it dries. This is similar to some (if not all) base coat-clear coat paint systems. They require a clean air source during installation for safety.
Don't be in the bus while they are foaming.
Ed Roelle
Flint, MI
John,
I think you do not want that "latex" foam. Be careful! You want the the poly stuff that is dangerous. You need it to be "closed cell" so it won't absorb water and rust the metal and rot. The guys that do this are hooked up with the contractor that builds walk in coolers and freezers and sprays the inside of refer trailers/trucks for the road. They travel and make swings thru areas but aren't on a sched. To apply this stuff you need an aspirator but one "team" uses makeshift helmets and uses the exhaust from a shop vac to provide the fresh air via vacuum cleaner type hose. Whatever floats your boat. Also need a fan for flo thru. The fumes are lethal but they dissipate rapidly....the sprayer will know. If the sprayer doesn't have solid practice he will die very early in his career so ask if this is their first job ;D ;D Latex can be sprayed without a mask and that is a ripoff.
Jriddle,
The guys that do this are a road crew. They will come to your house for free if you are between their other jobs. Otherwise they will probably charge fuel but getting the quote may be the problem. They charge by the cubic so if you know the surface area and depth you can get a quote over the phone with the stipulation that cost may increase if there is a discrepancy. Being out in the sticks may not matter but the entire process takes one day for the two man crew and that includes trimming by them. Four days if you do it :o ;D It needs heat so winter outside in Utah is not going to work unless you are in a heated bldg. If they are doing refers though they have that bldg at the site they are working at.
Jeramy,
Look for an "R" value on any insulation you might use. Not a "simulated R value" or effective R value or any other play on words.
High tec,
I may have a couple roof air conditioners for you really cheap. Dometics! Problem is getting them from Orygun to you in Tenn. If you ca sort that part out you are in. Hows $15 each? Same price to any Knut as well. I still have to test them but I think they are both good.
John
Hi,
First off I have a correction to make. It is actually a closed cell polyurethane. Sorry my mind was???where???
Anyways this gentleman that is going to squirt our bus has a really tight practice. He has done multiple S&S RV's (not to mention all of the houses, building, and specialty projects) and seemed really knowledgeable and helpful. R value for the foam is 7 per inch. This guy also was willing to work with us and around our stuff. Meaning he didn't mind us leaving some of our temporary furniture in so that we didn't have to take the windshield out to get all of the couches, fridge, etc, out. He said that if we were around that he would tell us when he needed the stuff moved to the other side, and we will move it. We won't be in the bus until he says it is safe. I hope that answers the questions. Thanks for the replies... can you tell that I need a lot of help???
;D ;) ;D
HighTeckRedneck, thanks for the explanation. I understand about the budget. We tend to have the same problem!!!
Thanks again for all of the info. Much appreciated!!!
God bless,
John
I've been looking for some comparisions between the multi-layer foil insulation and foam; everything I had read before (cheifly advertising material from the foil insulation manufacturers) indicated that the foil stuff was much better than 'old fashioned' foam - however, the extract below (from a manufacturer of foam) totally contradicts this. I've copied it here just in case it is of interest to anyone else as background material before deciding to foam your bus (for instance, it suggests that you need a minimum of 4" of foam to meet the minimum standards for new-build houses in the UK, which puts the typical inch or two of foam put into a 'fully insulated' bus into context).
The full document is here: http://www.foam-insulation.co.uk/insulation/multi-foil-insulation.htm
An extract talking about foam verus foil (remember that this is from a foam manufacturer):
"For aged polyurethane foam (worst case scenario), a typical calulated value of thermal conductance by test method ASTM is k value = 0.026 W/mK, to achive a U value of 0.20 would require an R value (depth/k value) of 5 for the foam depth sprayed (1/u value or 1/0.20 = 5) and therefore calculating for depth is k * R or 0.26 * 5 = 130 mm . A 130 mm coating of high density polyurethane foam will hence do the job here to achieve a U value of 0.20. Deph of foam required to achieve a particular U value is given by the conductance value of the foam divided by the U value, k/U = depth. Polyurethane spray foams have typical thermal conductances in the range 0.015 to 0.030 W/mK with high density foams at the lower end of the scale.
Essentially, the research conducted by the BRE has looked at 'real world' applications and concluded that multi-foil insulation products significantly differ from the measured on site U values (the lower the U value the lower the heat loss will be through the product and therefore the better the insulator will be) to that claimed by the manufactures. Significant because the real world measurements indicate that for most applications foil based insulation products cannot come close to meeting the new standards for thermal insulation introduced by the April 2006 Building Regulations. Best case U value was 0.43 given favourable assumptions whilst worst case was a U value of 0.98 (the lower the U value the better the thermal insulation value) Given that the Building Regulations demand at least U values starting from 0.25 and below, it is clear that foil based insulation products cannot meet the new standards. This is against a background where foil based insulation product manufacturers have been claiming that U values as low as 0.18 are achievable with multi foil. This was not borne out by real world research by the BRE where actual U values measurement were significantly inferior. No wonder the ASA so fit to take action against the multi-foil insulation manufacturers.
Based upon the BRE results, as a comparison, a 40 mm coating of polyurethane foam produces a thermal U value of worst case 0.53. A multi-foil insulation product of 30 mm at best case as tested by the BRE gives a real world U value of 0.78, significantly inferior to polyurethane foam. A 100 mm coating of polyurethane falls in U value to below 0.25, the new minimum starting U value under the new April 2006 Building Regulations. A multi-foil system is stuck at 0.78, hopelessly outclassed and cannot comply with Building Regulations. Even going from one manufacturer's test claim of U = 0.533 as the best of the best this still falls hopelessly short of complying with Building Regs."
Jeremy
Jeremy,
You have made the best case I have seen for doing the firing strips and insulating to their deapth.
Thanks for that excellent post. Europe again!
John
Nice job on your insulation Blacksheep. Sorry my computer has been down for awhile or I would have got back to you quicker. Looks very proffesional !
Grant
Same as Ace on my prevo. Just seemed to be much simpler, While squaring off the back adding 1 1/2'' angle, sheets of insolation,3/4 ply, 1/4'' holes drilled, cans of foam sprayed to tighten up everything under there. Hard to hear that 60 under there!
Danny
Thanks guys! Insulating the bus was actually fun! Trofting the insulation for the conduit to from one outlet to another in the walls made it almost like snow! I had that crap everywhere and it doesn't sweep worth a darn! It has to be vacuumed! It doesn't squeek and makes the walls very solid!
Ace
I don't know what it is called but the guys that did mine used a (horse comb?) it was metal with rolls of teeth in a circle.. You horse folks out there know what I mean. anyway it worked really good and quick. Use the 5/8...I did and don't regret it one bit
BJ, it is called a curry come.
Ace, you have a great looking bus thanks for your comments.
God bless,
John