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Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: berrybus on September 16, 2008, 07:06:57 PM

Title: aluminum sides
Post by: berrybus on September 16, 2008, 07:06:57 PM
we have our roof raised and our sides re-framed. our post are 29'' on center.we bought 5'x6'x15 gauge aluminum sheets painted white. i understand the sheets have to be heated before riveting on post. if so how is this possible to keep hot while drilling all these holes? i would appreciate any help on this. thanks Jim
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: Jriddle on September 16, 2008, 07:13:36 PM
I have not done this myself but have looked at this website that give a few good tips. http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe5.htm

John
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: boogiethecat on September 16, 2008, 08:29:55 PM
Why don't you investigate using Sikaflex 252 instead of rivets.  Many advantages.... no electrolysis or corrosion due to steel rivets and/or steel frames on aluminum, no rivets to leak, nicer looking, not to mention MUCH faster job and it'll stick as well as rivets, probably better, and no heating since expansion isn't an issue, because the sika bond line is flexible.  I did both my aluminum skinned trailer and my bluebird bus with Sika and I'd never do it another way.

I don't remember the part number of the primer stuff, but it's important to use it.

FWIW here's some photos of skinning part of my bus with the stuff...

http://www.heartmagic.com/bluebirdphotos/Sikaflex.html

Cheers
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on September 16, 2008, 08:34:18 PM
Hi Jim,

Try doing it with 14 ft. sheets.... I did!

It's not easy, thats for sure. Buy about 500 cleco's and a cleco tool, lots of quality drill bits, I would recommend using both rivets and siksflex.

And forget about trying to remove sikaflex from your hands. That will take about 2 weeks.. [oh, and about 3 friends to help]  I found that large

commercial radient heaters work the best. I was able to keep the aluminum at 150 deg.'s while hanging/riviting and using sikaflex.  

Note: welding gloves are recommended...

Good Luck
Nick-

Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: boogiethecat on September 17, 2008, 09:57:00 AM
Nick and all...
Cleaning up Sikaflex is easy with the right stuff!

Those little pre-moistened mechanic's paper towels called "scrubs in a bucket" are excellent at getting the stuff off of your hands, and also for cleaning up the work....

Also naptha dissolves it nicely

Cheers
boogie
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: Sojourner on September 17, 2008, 12:05:52 PM
Quote from: boogiethecat on September 16, 2008, 08:29:55 PM
Why don't you investigate using Sikaflex 252 instead of rivets. 
Cheers

boogiethecat...I am glad you did say "investigate" about using only Sikaflex instead of rivets.

First of all "berrybus" didn't mention what brand and year bus that he is talking about.

Hopefully "berrybus" will tell us.

The bottom-line is that a monocoupe design body has to have rivets as OEM request or you will have structural problem. Unless it has trusses design within...then you can get by Sikaflex 252 with spacers.

Sikaflex has elastic effect but hold power is the best on clean prep metal surface.

Solid rivet has no elastic effect to speak of, so that it not only to holding sheets on the frame but to retained the dynamic forces to maintain the structural design while traveling.

Sikaflex 252 is my choice for trusses design body cage such as Eagle, MCI E series and Prevost H series.

About heat skin while gluing...you are wasting your time and energy. Heating skin to about 120°F before riveting is good. But it better (faster) to do it in hot climate with no wind and still add heat so that when done, you can go any hot climate without bubble. And while adding heat to about 120°F, only riveting nearest to the hottest area and move on along with heat & rivet at the same time.

It all depend where it going to travel. If never warmer than riveting day, than no need to heat up skin.

BTW...rivet need to be either solid aluminum or any structural pull type that leave a "bolt" within. NO POP rivet.

About how to install solid rivet is another chapter.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: berrybus on September 17, 2008, 06:22:52 PM
thanks for the help. the bus is a mci 9. i removed all the siding and post. i replaced the post with 1&3\4 tubing every 29''.  i have built a 28'' high truss down the sides. i have shave head rivets for the sides. my sheets are 6' tall and 5' wide . how can i heat these to 120 degrease and get it riveted on? thanks jim.
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: Dreamscape on September 17, 2008, 06:30:33 PM
I think they use diesel fired salamander heaters. Easy to move and you get to smell diesel fumes! ::)

I have not done that part of the project, just what I've read on the net.

Paul
Title: Re: aluminum sides
Post by: Busted Knuckle on September 18, 2008, 03:37:00 PM
Quote from: berrybus on September 17, 2008, 06:22:52 PM
thanks for the help. the bus is a mci 9. i removed all the siding and post. i replaced the post with 1&3\4 tubing every 29''.  i have built a 28'' high truss down the sides. i have shave head rivets for the sides. my sheets are 6' tall and 5' wide . how can i heat these to 120 degrease and get it riveted on? thanks jim.

Hey Jim try this link, I think it will be of help to ya! ;D  BK  ;D

http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe5.htm

go to page 5 and scroll down!