Hello Everyone,
Well my band is on tour and we are suppose to be in Memphis tonight, but thats not happening. Both air bleeder vaules went out on our bus.
Thanks THE LORD it happened when we stop to fill up on veggie. Anyway the diesel machine said he can't get the parts in till tomorrow. wondering if there is anyone that has any idea where we could get front and back bleeder valves? If not prayer would be helpful had to cancel tonight show and tomorrow show is in OK 10 hours. :-\Thanks a ton guys everyone is so helpful on this board its a God sent.
Peach
215-962-5644
Need a little better description of the "Bleeder Valves". If they are pipe thread fittings, can you remove them and replace with pipe plugs? Jack
If a mechanic is using the term "front and rear bleeder valves", best that you start checking him for horns and a pitchfork...
These are not proper terms for anything.
Mind yourself, its bad stewardship to be taken advantage of.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I've been in the industry for over 30 years and never heard of bleeder valves. Watch that you're not being taken advantage of. Get a better discription of the part and post here before you spend your hard earned money. Good Luck, TomC
Are you describing drain valves for the air tanks?
What it the problem caused by these so called bleeder valves?
If we knew what the problem was that would help every one have a better idea what your mechanic might be talking about.
Geez, we're quite the bunch...
I've got on the phone and talked to them...stand by for further updates... Peach was inside the truckstop...
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Hey all,
Im sorry i am having major problem finding internet, so i am only able to check so offten. I can't tahnk you enough for all your help it has been one of the worst days of my life. here it it.
We stop to get veggie, filled up, and went to take off again and the air presure went down and held at about 30 psi. The fast idle kicked due to the presure not bulding up. and all the lights kicked on the dash tell me it doesn't have enough generated air.
So, i took a good walk around the bus. As a side note i call these sneezer valves....not sure what they are actually called, but one is located right in front of the drive axle in the middle, and the other is located in the door right in front of the driver side front tire, and you pull them and they release the condensation and gunk in the lines. so anyways, i guess they have a seal and the seal went on them. the rear 'sneezer valve' has been leaking air since we had the bus, but we didnt pay much attention to it and just thought it was normal. the air psi has been holding steady at 90 and i was just informed today that 110 psi is where it should be at. so the seal on the front one went and it pretty much just stays at 30 psi. the only way i can get the air pressure to build up is by slightly pressing on the brake and pressing on the accelerator. once i let off the brake tho, i immediately start dropping air pressure until it evens out at around 30.
so yea, not sure what the deal is but these guys are telling me the part wont be in until tomorrow and yea, theyre quoting me about 500 bucks or so :-/
also, just in case anyone knows of a coach shop in the area, i am located at a Pilot. 2320 Hwy 46 South Dickson, TN 37055. sounds like these guys are trying to rip me off
Off the I40, exit 172, just north of.
Who's out there that can help these new busnuts?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
ok, Peach.
You can try calling Rich at Prevost 1-877-299-8881
He is a great friend of the bus conversion community. He will steer you in the right direction.
Let him know Dallas and I say hello!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Peach, Dallas also recommends Stayley Coach at 615-860-9485.
All makes and models....
I am the secretary of the Chat this evening, so it seems....
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Guys, can't they remove the values and just put in a plug till they get home????
Bill
He seems to be describing what I know as as automatic air tank drain valve. I think I paid $50 for mine on ebay and I don't see how one from a dealer can be more than $150.
He obviously doesn't need to replace both if only one is leaking.
This is a 20min job once the bus is over a pit.
They are going to need some onsite assistance, this is their first bus experience.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Is it an automatic bleed off value or one that you pull to manually drain ?????
Has he said what type of bus?
Bill
He needs to stop at a truck dealer and buy 2 manual for 20 bucks each and replace the automatics but reading his post sounds like he has manuals already,he maybe talking about the relay if air will build up when the brakes are applied
You can call John Spellings at Busforsale.com
(615) 859-1998
He has a service center on site for repairs and such!
He would probably be you closest repair center that knows buses and is located just outside Nashville in Goodlettsville!
Ace
does the valve look like this manual pull air tank bleed valve
see--> http://www.truck-autoparts.com/china-Other-brake-valve/products-DRAIN-VALVE-737.html
if so - just unscrew it and go to an ace hardware or lowes and get a plug for now
Pete RTS/Daytona
hey guys,
it is a manual pull valves are fine now. the problem is this, under neither the drive side of our bus (1981 MCI MC9) toward the back there is a little rubber diaphragm about 2 or 3 inches big that is leaking air. When i press the brake it stop leaking, but the more pressure that builds up the hard i have to press the brake. I can only get it up to about 90 PSI. Im standing by thanks guys you re all life savers.
Peach
Hi Peach,
That diaphram sounds like an air regulator. They are available at any NAPA store. I replaced one on my coach a year ago and keep one as a spare.
If you can remove it and bring it with you to a NAPA store, they can match you up with another. The new ones should be plastic. I paid about $35 for mine.
Hope you don't miss anymore gig's
Nick-
Hi Peach,
Does it look like this? "Bendix relay valve"
Nick-
Peach, as many have pointed out, the repair could quite possibly be done yourself. But safety is the big issue. It is not like a pickup truck where you can safely crawl under if you can fit. If you go under the bus and the air goes down, you are dead and significantly thinner. If you do it yourself you will need a 12-20 ton hydraulic jack and blocks to block it up. Never go under with just the jack. Jacks can fail and then you are back to the thin and dead situation.
Given your circumstances, I suggest trying Ace's (Blacksheep) suggestion. John may or may not be able to come to you, but at least he would have good personal knowledge of what mobile repair places can be trusted and be the best value. With any mobile repair operation, you will be paying more for the conveneince though. They have higher overhead involved for the mobility and you are paying for their travel time both ways either directly (charged as part of the labor time) or indirectly (higher rate for while they are with you).
If you have towing coverage, you may consider having it towed to John's shop. Even though it sounds like you can move it, since the brakes are being affected, you can't move it safely in traffic.
hey guys,
what a waist of a day the mechanics from the pilot (if you want to call them that) worked on it for about 3 hours. replaced the foot brake valve. still wasn't building up pressure, in fact its build up 0 psi apposed to the old one that was building up 35 psi. so $500 for nothing.
For here they said a wrecker to tow up would be $300 and a big head ache due to us have a trailer. we are thinking road side assistance. anyone know anyone in Dickson TN area?? :-[
p.s. nick that wasn't the part they replaced thanks for taking time to help! that goes to everyone.
peach
Peach, can you post a picture or email one of us a picture of the part that's leaking air? Maybe one of us can identify it for you.
Why did you pay the shop if they didn't fix it? Time to talk to the manager and get loud. Sounds like they're just swapping parts.
here is a picture that looks very similar. on the bottom of that out foot valve there is a bigger thinner rubber piece. but thats what is leaking air.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.truck-autoparts.com%2FR72E-china%2FFoot-Brake-valve-Foot-Brake-Valve.jpg&hash=221225e6b5bafc4a777ae156caf9939bca8a95e1)
its called a foot vavle
thanks guys
You can try these folks if you want. I got info from my Bus garage Index and am NOT affiliated with them or know anything about them - just what my book says.
A-1 Diesel
Hendersonville, Tn (15 miles from Nashville)
888-824-4230
After hours: 615-824-0433
Shop phone - 615-824-4230 or 615-822-2302.
They seem to cover all the bases, as per what's in the book.
Familiar with Eagle,GMC,MCI,Prevost,Setra,Vanhool
Good Luck
Try the EagleNest in Nashville 1-615-242-7241 speak with Mark they work on all makes of buses
good luck
I wonder how far he is from BK's?
Nick-
BK is in Texas
Peach,
One Lapper gave you good advice. Don't pay some clueless idiot for guessing and replacing parts! That is, unless $500 is easier for you to come up with than it is for me. He didn't fix it because he GUESSED wrong! In my opinion, you don't owe him the $$$. He should be held accountable. If he didn't know, he should have said as much. Just my opinion.
Dennis
I agree, if he didn't fix your problem he just sold you a part you don't need. You need to call and demand a refund. That is just poor troubleshooting period. That's why diagnosis is so critical instead of the shotgun method. I call it hunt, peck and replace when not necessary.
As others have said, put a plug in them until you can fix it properly. It will save you a lot of time and money, at least for now. You've already spent $500 for nothing, plugs are a buck a piece.
Good Luck,
Paul
Peach this is daves number at A-1 Diesel(615) 476-4416 I believe it to be his cell # this was given to me by craig hanloh from silver eagle when I broke down bringing my bus home from Illinois He s very know
legeable and he is close,he was a big help in helping me when I was broke down
prayers are on the way,keep the faith.Van
Ill give another vote for John Spelling just north of Nashville. Im sure he could help you out. That's who I bought my bus from and he went above and beyond for me... jmho
Peach also might try williams truck LLC@615-446-6662 also heres napa's # 615-446-6272 and they are located about 3 mi.back up north of you on hwy 46 in dickson address is 600 hwy 46 s,dickson me and cheryl are prayin for ya
yea tho I walk thru the valley
he's with ya
Van
P.S Be sure to suit up before ya head out WWJD
I would go with everyone else that you need to have someone else look at it. if it suddenly dropped to 30psi there would be a noticable leak and if holding down the brake stopped the leak then that valve has some type of problem. that is a $100 or less part. if nothing else was changed then there is no way it would not now make pressure unless they made a major error in hooking it up. to make 0 psi it would be dumping air out a big hole or the drive to the compressor is broken. I would think that if the brake valve were leaking enough to keep the compressor from reaching the cutout point (120psi or so) then the brakes would be acting up all along.
just my thoughts.
steve
Hey GUYS I AT HOME! Just got in at 8:30 tonight! PEACH CALL ME YOUR IN AN AREA I KNOW PEOPLE FROM! YOU GOT MY # and it is possible Robert & I could run up tomorrow! ;D BK ;D
Thanks Nick as I was reading this thread I thought maybe I had been disbared or somethin! LOL! Shoot ya'll should always try me on the phone anytime it's close to me! Even if I ain't home I probably know someone close! ;D BK ;D
peach hang in there,helps on the way,way to go BK.
Peach,
you need to do a few things ASAP after getting your bus to a legitimate bus mechanic.
1. But the manuals ( Parts and maint at minimum'
2. Buy yourself a copy of the Bus garage Index and po9ssibly the Bus pages
3. Familiarize yourself with your coach. it is not a car or even a heavy duty truck it is a bus and as such alot of Truck mechanics will not really know how to fix certain things on them.
Never ever take a bus to a truck stop for maint. always a rip off....and alot of the time the guys are not trained mechanics but rather guys who can pull the handle on the grease gun
I think you said you had a leak before leaving on your trip........it is always wise to leave on a trip fixed.......or at least know what problems you have so you can address them if they become an issue.
good luck
peach any luck with the repair haven't heard from you guys ,hope all is well please keep us posted.
concerned:Van
I spoke with one o f the band members this AM!
They did infact get going, and it was the foot brake valve.
The Idiot from the Pilot installed it wrong!
They got a hold of someone from MCI who walked them through fixing it correctly.
Last I talked to them they were in or near Little Rock with a new problem Seems someone driving hit something with the trailer and about tore it out from under the trailer.
They were at a welding shop when I spoke to them last!
OK Peach, and band we want details & updates! ??? BK 8)
guess I am not as dumb as I usually feel after posting that the only way it could be at 0 psi is if they screwed up hooking it up. Now I know why I try so hard to understand all the parts of this behemoth. seems like most of the "professionals" rarely are.
glad they got it moving.
steve
I find there are to many technicians and not enough mechanics. Most don't know their elbow from their @$#...
gimme a wrench,i'm ready LOL yea but really i'm glad they got going again,ok like BK aid we want all the juicy details as soon as you get going (again).van
Got all the signs that this bus adventure may be the first and last.
happy coaching!
buswarrior