I'm going to put 2 roof top AC units on our bus,and fit them where the escape hatches are.I first need to weld up a frame for the 14 inch hole for the AC,then skin over the remainder of the hatch.
I'm sure there are photo's of this being done,Any tips and pics appreciated.
Tim
I am getting ready to do the same thing with the same bus. I panned over the windows with .080 aluminum. It seemed think enough to handle the weight with supports. I am going to use Sikaflex for fasten the metal to the top. I am using this same product for the windows and it works great. If you place a cross brace for the other end of the AC the existing brace can take care of the other side. That is what I am planning on doing.
Good luck,
Danny (Tennessee)
I moved my rear hatch forward, and covered the old hole. Not quite the same as what you're doing , but close. There are photos located in the conglomeration of photos on this link: http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/Uplink/uplink.htm About midway down the page.
This subject is very interesting to me, as I will be doing the same thing. I was wondering how I was going to do this as well...
shawn
Tim- Since the roof hatch is already reinforced, just use the proper thickness of wood to frame it down with angle iron supporting the ends screwed into place. I realize that welding is always the best way, but remember, the bus doesn't ride like a truck, nor are you going to put hundreds of thousands of mile on the bus. I have three roof A/C's. I cut the holes right up against the roof bows and then just framed it in with 1x2 fir strips-like I used in the entire bus screwed to the support beams. With the foam in place, the A/C's don't bounce at all (and I've been over some bumps and watched the A/C's [when the road was clear]). Doing it with wood is the easy way and it works, welding in a new frame is the best. You decide. Good Luck, TomC
Like Tom said, I framed mine with wood. Make sure it is slightly higher that the rest of the roof to avoid any puddling. I removed all the hatch framing, and I framed the hole first then glued and riveted a sheet of aluminum over it and cut out the hole when ready to install the AC. This is on an eagle, so your's may be slightly different. The concept is the same, however. I believe my installation required a 14"x14" hole.
If you notice the green primer paint at the end of the lumber, I welded in 1.5"x1.5" angle to screw the lumber to the frame.
David
All good info ...thanks
Tim
yes, thanks for the info. I only have 2 to install, so I think I will go the wood route, since I dont own a welder.
shawn